Hi guys,

I'm trying to fix my girlfriend's car which broke down earlier last night in a rain storm.

Symptoms:

Will not turn over or engage the starter

Gauges don't turn on

Gauge LIGHTS will illuminate when I turn on the parking lights.

Headlights won't go up (but they turn on)

interior lights work

Power seats DON'T work

Door lock buttons won't work (but there is a relay clicking under the dash when I press the buttons)

Hazard lights don't work

Radio doesn't turn on

Fuel pump doesn't turn on



Battery is fully charged and I just replaced the alternator last night (because I thought the alternator went).

I really need some help here.
I come from the dark side (Ford) and I've had a similar problem with an "ignition switch" (a power switch that is connected to the lock cylinder). Usually when they go bad you get some weird electrical problems.


It's an 84 Firebird Trans Am (Auto). Bone stock.

 

The only thing that comes to mind is to check the positive to the ignition switch and see if that is getting power with the key on. Also check your fuses to make sure any aren't blown

 

None of the fuses are blown.
I don't know how to get to the ignition switch. I know it is in the steering column, but I'm unsure as how to get it apart. I can't find any screws or seams in the column.

 

I spent all day taking apart the dash and the steering column only to find out that I could have taken it out much faster if I just unbolted the column bracket. Is there a write up somewhere for this car?

 

I am really stumped at this point. I've replaced the ignition switch, still no power to anything.

Again, no crank, no radio, no gauges, no power to door locks, no power to gauges.
Head lights turn on, but the lids don't go up.

The car died on the high way a few nights ago. Nothing has been done to the car, it's all bone stock.

One thing I noticed is a relay behind the drivers side kick panel. It clicks when I press the lock and unlock buttons on the doors.
The car had a security system that was removed. I'm not sure if it was a factory system or aftermarket, but there is a security light with cut wires. Everything under the dash looks clean though.


I really need help

 

The dash lights up when I turn the lights on, interior lights are on and bright, head lights are bright, brake lights work...
hazard lights do not work.

 

Is there a relay I should be looking for? I noticed the relay panel in the dash. Is it possible anything in there needs to be replaced?

Are there any electrical diagrams I can get online?

Again, 84 Firebird Trans Am 5.0l Auto. Bone stock 88k miles.

 

I'd look at the fusable links, usually at the starter, might have some at the battery or alternator. Get a test light & test both sides of the link for power. The sometimes feel really rubbery & strechy when they blow.

 

I also have an 84 T/A, Auto.

The best bet for a book, is to go on Ebay and get you a "GM Repair manual" for the 84 T/A. It's the shop manual that the dealer used for maintenance on the car. Usually run $50-$100 or so depending.

Check for power at the starter. WIth the ignition on, you should be getting 12v on the two-3 smaller wires coming off the solonoid. One goes to the ignition the other to the alternator (It's a larger wire for charging the bat) and one more that goes up into the loom.

If the starter doesn't "click" when you turn the igntion over, my bet is there is something wrong down there. My "guess" is that you cooked one or more of those wires, but not all of them, at least not all the way. Also, there are fusible links...in-line fuses (DUMBEST IDEA EVER ON A CAR) on some of the wires that could have gone out.

Also, check the ground on the block. I'ts a small ground wire the goes from the engine to the firewall. You'll find it behind the motor on the passenger side just below the head. It's Kind of hard to find but if you run your hand back there you'll find it, it's the only wire directly bolted to the firewall. ALso, i'ts a braided line, so it won't look like normal wire. If that came loose, it will cause all kinds of crazy issues with your electrical system.

Put the car up on jacks and pull the starter, check those wires.

 

I'm having a similar problem any help?

Last week my car wouldn't start, nothing. There wasn't any clicking or lights or any signs of life. Earlier that day I thought I smelt something burning. Before that I had put my GPS charger in the cig lighter and it sparked. I changed batteries and nothing happened. I also changed the starter because I thought it was the starter to begin with. After I still had no signs of life I bought a test light. At first the test light was lighting everything up and I thought that was a little weird. Like I put it on a bolt and touched the negative post and it lit up. I started touching things inside the car and again everything was lghting up, the car was electrofied. I unplugged the wiring harness from the wall and tried the test light again attached to the bolt touching the negative post and it did was it was supposed to, not light up. So I went looking for a fuseable link thinking it blew, but the person I bought the car from cut them all out. That led me to believe there's a burned wire behind the dash that's causing the interior to be electrofied. I tore apart the dash, center console and pulled up the carpet, I've checked every wire and fuse and still haven't found anything. Does anybody have any idea what the problem could be?

 

What about the neutral safety switch? From what I can tell, the ignition switch gets its power from it. I've been studying these electrical diagrams all day and figured out that 20A CTSY and 20A TAIL are the only fuses with power. Everything else goes to a fuseable link or the ignition switch.

 

Never mind. I looked at the diagrams a little closer.

The fuseable link comes before the ignition switch, which sends power to the neutral safety switch, and that sends power to the starter solenoid to start the car.

The only logical conclusion is that there is a blown fuseable link at the starter.

 

The things that are not working all go through the ignition switch. There are two feeds from the battery, one goes to the lights (interior and exterior) but not to the motors of the headlights. The other of course to the ignition switch. Start at the battery and start tracing the wires back. I've just done this myself, my main feed from the battery had come out of one of those joining thingies. It gave the same symptoms you have described.

Cheers

 

Thanks a lot for the help. I'm looking for a possible blown fuse link by the starter right now.

 

Found the problem. Ugh, this is going to be a PITA

 

Glad to hear you found the issue, good luck!

 

Does anyone know where these two wires lead? I have to run entirely new wires to the starter.
I'm starting to think it would just be easier to buy my gf a beater car so she can get to work while I fix this one.

 

On a chevy, they usually run in to a loom at the bellhousing

 

I ran new wires straight from the starter to the ignition switch through the firewall. Now everything works. It cranks but doesn't start. There is a vacuum line next to the brake pedal that I took off to make space. I think it's for the cruise control, but maybe that's why it isn't starting.

 

I also have half of the dash apart including the gauges... I'll find out later tonight if anything else is wrong. The wires are pretty fried...hopefully it didn't toast the EEC

 

You will need all the vacuum lines hooked up.

 

Thanks! Can I just plug up the vacuum line to the cruise control? It doesn't work anyways and I broke the plastic piece that it goes into. I'm assuming it's just a switch for the pedal so it knows when to turn off cruise control.

 

Yeah, as long as all the vacuum lines are plugged you should be OK.

 

Car runs now, but I seemed to have completely reversed the issue. I think I might have done a bad wiring job. I'm out of day light now...dammit.

 

Problem solved. Buttoning it up now.

I'm only concerned with having the car driveable for tomorrow. Only a few glitches with the electrical (blower not shutting off after key is removed sometimes, engine fan running after engine is off, buzzer bell) .

 

What is this a picture of? i have the exact same problem?