3 problems HELP!
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Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 2
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From: DMV
Car: Camaro IROCZ28
Engine: 350 V8 5.7
Transmission: Auto-Shift kit
3 problems HELP!
I have an 87 Irocz Camaro Automatic with a 305. I park it in the garage. In the morning when I go to start it it fires up like a champ. Throughout the day if I cut the engine to go to class or get gas it takes a little while to start. Could it be a starter?
Also It at times used to sputter out while driving so I would hit the gas more and it would be ok. Anyone know why?
Also at the pump I go and take the gas cap off i feel all the pressure release from doing so is that normal or should I get a new gas cap?

Also It at times used to sputter out while driving so I would hit the gas more and it would be ok. Anyone know why?

Also at the pump I go and take the gas cap off i feel all the pressure release from doing so is that normal or should I get a new gas cap?
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,337
Likes: 29
From: Aurora, OR
Car: 87 IROC Z28
Engine: 355 cid TPI
Transmission: Custom Built 700R4 w/3,500 stall
Axle/Gears: QP fab 9" 3.70 Truetrac
Re: 3 problems HELP!
Question 1: I'll answer with a question, does the engine crank slowly? If so it could be a weak battery, poor cables or connections, or a weak starter. If the engine cranks at normal cranking speed but just doesn't want to start, that is either weak spark or more likely incorrect fueling. Most fueling problems on these cars, especially heat related fueling problems are due to the injectors either having old tired coils or clogged/damaged pintles. Either way you need to remove the injectors and send them in to a good injector service to be tested, cleaned or replaced. Other possible culprits are the MAF sensor or circuit. A major fault in this system will set a code but the sensor voltage can be off by quite a bit and no code will set. Any deviation from correct MAF voltage will cause drivability issues. The coolant temp sensor can also cause heat related problems. To find these type of issues you need a scan tool to view datastream and compare the data from these sensors to normal values for the conditions.
Question 2: The sputtering with a warm engine is most likely related to the hard start and would be caused either by weak spark or by failing fuel injectors. Start your diagnosis by checking your plugs and wires for wear or deterioration. If the wires are original, replace them with the plugs. Use only the AC Delco plugs listed for you engine. Check the distributor cap and rotor for carbon deposits on the contacts and discoloration of the terminals. If you are replacing plugs and wires, replace the cap and rotor as well. Once you've verified that the ignition system is in good health, look for an improvement in performance and starting. If the problem is still there, go to injectors. You can test the injectors for resistance cold and hot but this will not find a damaged pintle or a clogged nozzle. The only way to be sure of injector health is to have them tested on an injector bench. Leave this to the injector experts at a good injector service.
Question 3: Pressure in the tank is normal, especially after driving or in warm weather. The fuel tank is sealed and vents only through the evaporative emmisions charcoal canister which traps the hydrocarbons in the fuel vapor to be burned during driving, in order to reduce emmissions. To prevent over pressure, the tank has a pressure control valve that will relieve pressure above about 4kPa, or 1/4 PSI. This isn't much pressure but as you release it at the fuel cap it can seem like alot.
Question 2: The sputtering with a warm engine is most likely related to the hard start and would be caused either by weak spark or by failing fuel injectors. Start your diagnosis by checking your plugs and wires for wear or deterioration. If the wires are original, replace them with the plugs. Use only the AC Delco plugs listed for you engine. Check the distributor cap and rotor for carbon deposits on the contacts and discoloration of the terminals. If you are replacing plugs and wires, replace the cap and rotor as well. Once you've verified that the ignition system is in good health, look for an improvement in performance and starting. If the problem is still there, go to injectors. You can test the injectors for resistance cold and hot but this will not find a damaged pintle or a clogged nozzle. The only way to be sure of injector health is to have them tested on an injector bench. Leave this to the injector experts at a good injector service.
Question 3: Pressure in the tank is normal, especially after driving or in warm weather. The fuel tank is sealed and vents only through the evaporative emmisions charcoal canister which traps the hydrocarbons in the fuel vapor to be burned during driving, in order to reduce emmissions. To prevent over pressure, the tank has a pressure control valve that will relieve pressure above about 4kPa, or 1/4 PSI. This isn't much pressure but as you release it at the fuel cap it can seem like alot.
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,337
Likes: 29
From: Aurora, OR
Car: 87 IROC Z28
Engine: 355 cid TPI
Transmission: Custom Built 700R4 w/3,500 stall
Axle/Gears: QP fab 9" 3.70 Truetrac
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