Reading a lot about them.
Can't find where to buy them. The sites listed at John Callies Inc have no links to Morels.

Edit. I found them at Straubs.
Any others?

 

Lot of brand name companies carry them under thier own label. Isky is one that I know for sure. Howards is another, I think. Morel is a manufacturer, and does not sell direct much of the time AFAIK.

 

Got mine from Chris Straub as mentioned in the other thread.

 

I'm finding that to be the case too. What I can't determine is if a Howards or Isky or Lunati (I think) offer the same lifter as the actual Morel but at a reduced price.

I found his web site. He has a pretty good rep too.

 

Real Morel lifters will have Morel on the link bar. As stated above, there are many companies that carry Morel lifters under their house name. My Crane Ultra Pro lifters look like a Morel and are just as good. Howards Pro Max lifters are Morels.

If you really want Morel lifters, you can contact John Callies. He's a Morel rep. 901-466-3577

Be prepared for sticker shock. My lifters were around $800 when I bought them. Generally, if they're inexpensive lifters, they're not going to be Morel lifters.

 

That's what I figured.
It's the billet piece of tool steel that makes the best (and most expensive) lifter. This is as opposed to a cast and machined body.
What I have to decide is whether or not an ultra high quality part, like a Morel, is warranted in my application. I think not but look what I'm into now. Having to replace a set (although well used) of Comp entry level pieces.

 

I was just thinking about this post when I pulled all my morels out for the cam swap. They look pretty good, but they have fretting wear on the rollers like I thought they would since theyre link-bars. The bar wears and doesnt always hold them perfectly straight like a plastic alignment insert in later GM engines. Since the bars wear a bit, the lifters can rock slightly back and fourth. General design flaw in this style of lifter. Other than that, theyre in really good shape. But I may still have to replace them because of the fretting...

 

Thats interesting to hear....i'll have to keep an eye out on my lifters

 

Its not horrible. They would probably go another 30k or so like that before it became bad enough. These did have a decent amount of mileage on them. Still kind of annoying to have to buy another set. Fretting causes high surface stress, so it can cause a parts to break. Its not cam walk as there's .010" of clearance between the timing chain cover and the thrust button, and the cover, which is aluminum, has no witness mark at all from the button, so the cam stays put.

 

The ISKY EZ-ROLL solid lifters are supposably some of the best on the market. A tad more expensive, but worth the cost IMO.. especially considering some of the design differences between comparable lifters.. and they're also rebuildable.