SanAntonio3

Ok, I recently started to do a timing chain replacement on my 89 305 tbi.
I so far have the new chain on and CAM dot is at 6 o'clock, and Crank is at 12 o'clock. Thats where I kind of scratch my head. Lets see if I can set myself right.

My next step is to turn the Crank until the Cam is at 12 o'clock, and the Crank at 12 o'clock as well. (meanwhile feeling for air escaping through plug hole to cylinder ONE, So that Piston 1 is at the top (Top dead Center) correct?

Supposedly, Both Valves to cylinder ONE should be in the closed position as well. CORRECT?
<ARE THOSE THE ONLY TWO VALVES THAT SHOULD BE CLOSED, OR THE OTHER VALVES DONT MATTER AT THIS POINT?

Next question, Do I have to drop my oil pan to reinstall my Timing Cover?? I was having a hell of a time trying to put it back on.( My oil pan gasket is a one piece gasket)
Next question, The distributer, what position should it be in once I finish? Or Would it Start in the position its in now. (Have not touched it)
Thank you. Maybe with some much needed help I can get back on the road. Already have the Gallon of paint for the new paint job just sitting. I would like to have it running, and painted before the summer.

SanAntonio3

Oh. My oil pump gasket is fairly new, (Grayish Rubber Type gasket) I believe its a Fel-pro. Changed it about 1500 miles ago. Maybe I can reuse if I do indeed have to remove/lower the pan. thanks again guys. Oh, and also with this Timing chain replacement I decided to drop in a New water pump, New radiator, and new Condensor.

Apeiron

Put the cam sprocket dot at 6 and the crank sprocket dot at 12, and you're done.

Front of the oil pan has to come down for the timing cover to go on.

There's an oil pump gasket?

lowridetractor

iTrader: (2)

if he does 6 o'clock on the cam and 12 o'clock on the crank he will be 180* out on the timing. he is right to make sure both marks are at 12 o'clock

redneckjoe

i agree. dots at 12 and 12, drop the dizzy in with the rotor pointed at number 1 on the cap and it should start right up.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

As long as you dont pull the dizzy out, just line up the dots and R&R the chain..

Damon

Agreed, if you haven't removed the distributor the timing will still be correct (althuogh probably advanced a couple degrees thanks to the fresh chain that isn't stretched out like an old rubber band.

Reinstalling the timing chain cover with the pan and gasket still in place requires clipping the "wings" on the inner seal lip of the timing chain cover. They are cut straight across from the factory and are the thing that makes reinsall nearly impossible without dropping the front of the pan down. You cut the corners down at at least a 45* angle from the seal seat.

Somebody's got a picture of it and will post up, hopefully.

Apeiron

Exactly

ASE doc

The 12 and 12 is important to remember only when the dist is removed. I still line up the dots with each other at 12 and 6 because they are much easier to line up this way. Then I turn the crank 360 before I drop the distributor.

Apeiron

Or leave it 12 and 6 and drop the distributor in at 6 instead of 1.

Position doesn't matter, phasing does.

redneckjoe

id still shoot for number 1. JMO.

ASE doc

Excactly. Once you understand this. It's fairly simple.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Oil pump gasket. not normally found on "stock" motors.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Small-...kets,8598.html

ASE doc

Lol. Oil pump gasket on a SBC. See something new everyday.

redneckjoe

I UNDERSTAND WHAT YOUR SAYING,....but most people dont. its a dumb discussion, but putting the marks at 12 and 12,...and the rotor at number 1 makes the motor start,...right????

not my first rodeo, but you guys are trying to complicate the OPs question with silly stuff. did he ask how to time the motor off of number 6????

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, I know! I think they used to use a paper gasket back in the 50s. Not 100% sure tho.
Most 460-351-302 Fords use a paper gasket on the pumps.

I put a very very very thin layer of teflon sealant on my cap-to-pump, just because.

Apeiron

Simplifying it by eliminating all the stuff that doesn't have to be done.

redneckjoe

O.K. im just gonna let this go.

SanAntonio3

I would just like to have it running right. Im sorry about my brain fart and putting oil pump gasket, I have no idea why i was thinking oil pump. i meant oil pan.

Anyways, I just wanted to recheck the whole set up during this chain replacement, just to be a little more at ease on the road; such as chain placement, distributor placement, and valve placement.
( Never did i hear anything about the valves being closed in any of your replys, so i guess that doesn't matter.)

Thank you all for your help. Even though I am confused. Should it not start on cylinder one and start on cylinder 6? Which is most common? When i sent it to timing, the mechanic put the gun to plug 1. Just observation. Maybe that doesn't matter as well.

SanAntonio3

Hopefully this time tomorrow i can hear my baby run again. I know from the slack the old chain had, to the new chain having significantly less slack that Im bound to get better performance out of it. Cant wait!!

ASE doc

The point Apeiron was making is that it doesn't matter so much that you have engine at #1 TDC as long as you phase the distributor correctly to where the engine is set. The key to setting up the chain is that the dots line up to each other and the center lines of the cam and crankshafts. This is #6 TDC. Then , I rotate the crank one turn so that the camshaft dot is at 12 oclock, (now the engine is at #1 TDC), then drop the distributor. Yes, the valves on #1 will be closed when #1 is at TDC, but since the cam sprocket can only be installed one way, as long as the marks line up, you don't need to worry about the valves. If you should accidently drop the distributor 180 out, you'll know right away. The engine will backfire and refuse to start.

redneckjoe

+1. Doc said it perfectley.