Here's the problem my car is a 1991 Camaro B4C car that has 160,000 mile with a freshly broke in motor. The car ran fine until I had a problem with the alternator charging the battery, which I have since fixed. When I had the charging issue, I ran battery out of juice several times therefore killing the car several times. The problem I am having now is the car will run good and drive like a champ for about a mile when it will start to act like its missing on a couple cylinders and will then die.When trying to restart I have to hold the gas pedal to the floor to get it to even think about starting, and when it does it run like it's misfiring and I have to keep it above 2,000 rpm or it willl die. To get the car to start good and idle good I have to leave the battery disconnected for 8 hrs to let the EMC rethink life. It throws a 43 knock sensor code, and a low coolant temp code. I can't seem to figure it out, any help will be appreciated.
Gavin
P.S. the cats are remove along with the A.I.R. pump, diverter valve, the whatchmacallitfor the egr on the base of the intake (can't think of it at the moment), also i installed hedman headers and I am working on getting a wideband o2

 

The knock sensor code shouldn't be related to your symptoms, though it could cause an overall lack of power as the ESC system pulls 18 degrees of advance out of the timing curve. The coolant temp sensor on the other hand could very well be the cause of your issue. Start your check out by first checking the connection at the coolant temp sensor at the front of the manifold(yellow wire and black wire). If the connection appears okay, then test resistance of the sensor when it's cold. It should read about 1,800ohms at 70 degrees(cold engine). Then test it again as the problem occurs. This sensor is a negative coefficient thermistor and will decrease in resistance as the temperature rises. So, as the engine warms up the resistance will go from 1,800 cold to about 180 with the engine fully hot.

From the sound of it, your engine likely won't run long enough to get fully hot so just look for the resistance to go down. If the cold reading is right and the resistance does decrease, it is likely that you have an open circuit between the ECT and the ECM. Check the connector for corrosion or damaged terminals.

 

Okay, I will check the temp sensor on the front of the intake. But the temp sensor I was referring to above, was the one on the passenger side head, if that makes a difference.
Gavin

 

Fixed the problem. The temp sender in the front of the manifold fixed the issue of only getting a mile down the road and having it throw a b!tch fit, also the idle issue was fixed also. Now I'm having cooling issues because it's new motor and the passenger head temp switch for the fans is bad. Thank you ASE doc for helping me.
Gavin

 

The coolant fan switch in the passenger head will not set a code. It isn't part of the EFI system. It simply turns the cooling fan on when the engine reaches 240 degrees(meaning that the ECM's cooling fan control system isn't working. If your cooling fans don't work, first check for power at the cooling fan relay. I don't think the B4C came with A/C or I would have you turn on the A/C to see if that turns one of the fans on. (On A/C cars, the high temp cooling fan runs whenever the compressor is on.)

With the key on, disconnect the ECT that you just replaced. This will place the ECM in default mode and the ECM should activate the cooling fan relay. The main fan (driver's side) should come on. If not, check for power at both of the large wires. If okay, check for power and ground at the fan motor connector. If no power out from the relay, check for power at the small brown wire and ground at the green and white wire. The ECM grounds the grn/wht wire to activate the main fan relay.

 

Well, the fans didn't work until I replaced the sensor the on sunday, took it for a drive and the fans kicked on before 200 on the guage cluster(I read these could read out faulty readings so?). On another note I am trying to fix wiring that made sense to hack, and that same hack replace the dual fans on this car with some piece of crap made in Mexico.

 

Yeah, hack wiring sucks. Sounds like you fixed your fans for now though.