whatsup camaro guys, i have a few questions about building a 350 to swap into my 87. i dont know if i should buy a complete motor with ok power and build that or build one from a 300 dollar truck motor.

So should i buy this 350 from craigslist for $600 with longtube headers and a holley 650 double pumper, its super clean looks like a crate, but no idea what heads or cam.
Or
should i just buy a block with pistons, (i dont want to get one without pistons because those usually have rust in the block, and im not trying to have it machined.) and buy a cam, intake and heads? <im thinking this route is better, yes?

im going for at least 400hp (yes really, my other camaro has 300hp out of a crate 350, and this one will see the track.) so my next question is what cam and heads will make the most power? and which will make me atleast 400hp?

im hoping the cam will be under $600 and under $600 for each head also. but im not limited to that. best intake? it will be carbed, so best carb for this setup? and would all of the this stuff make the power with stock 80's pistons in the block? i dont know how to change out pistons.

lastly this is my first engine build that i will be doing myself with friends, can i swap the cam and heads fairly easily? any special tools or balancing to install a cam?

all advice, opinions and info is greatly appreciated.

 

Just Google 400Hp 350 chevy
Plenty of builds documented online
Exp
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...d/viewall.html

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/eng...s/viewall.html

 

ok will do for sure. and those were great articles for sure, gives me hope for 8:1 compression.
i was told by a member here to ask what the best heads and and cam combo would be best. many people make 400hp but few do it right.
and what is the minimum compression needed?

also i may just want to get a new block. summit has a 350 for 700. is there a way i can get one with 10:1 pistons and a crank and rods already in it without the heads, cam and intake? i just want to buy a bottom end and build the top. i couldnt find anything like this on summit.

 

Id keep a latemodel block if you can and put a refreshed bottom end in it. Factory l98's can be built well over 400 hp for the amount of money you are talking. Hyd roller cam helps so id stick with a late model block. May need some machine work, if bore is good just a hone may be all that is needed. Minor overbore isnt all that much tho. Couple hundred bucks in cleaning and boring block plus new cam bearings.

What intake manifold? Keeping it efi or carbed? There are quite a few heads out there under 600 each

 

what year did the late model blocks start? and it will be carbed probably with an rpm edlebrock intake. i think thats the best eddy intake. but ive heard that if i go with vortec heads i need a vortec intake but i have no idea.

and can i put a hydraulic roller cam in an older/ non-latemodel motor or no?

 

87 to 99 i believe were the years for the factory roller cam motors.

 

alright so im finding a few 1987 350s and a lot of lt1s within my budget. the lt1 has the 10:4 compression im looking for but ive heard its a more difficult project to carb an lt1.

would this intake http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-24502592/ on an lt1 make more or less power than an rpm performer intake on an 87 sbc?

and with the carb on an lt1 how much more wiring is required than an 87 sbc? i plan on buying one of these two motors in the next couple of days so any input would be very helpful.

 

LT1's open up a whole new can of worms. Optispark being the smelliest can of them.

 

Personally I wouldn't even bother trying to build a 400+ horse motor on an old bottom end. At least take the bottom end apart and have the block checked by a machine shop to make sure it doesn't need to be bored, line honed, decked, etc. Also replace the rings and bearings at minimum. A solid straight block is the foundation for a good motor. And you even said few do it right. This is where it starts to do it right.

 

so im going with the old school 350 ive decided. and ive been doing a lot of research but there is too much info on the sbc than i can handle. i want to get this 1987, 10054727 casting motor but i need to know if its a hydraulic roller cam or not and i cant seem to figure it out. i cant find a list of what 350s have hydraulic roller cams, compression ratio would be nice too. do all 87 & up 350s definateley have hydraulic roller cam setups or what? all i can find is http://www.chevy-camaro.com/chevy-ca...es.asp?group=6
and this junk http://www.nastyz28.com/sbchevy/sblock.php
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrol...l-block_engine

 

87 began the one piece rear main seal block with factory hyd roller capability. The difference is machined lands at the lifter bores to accommodate the factory lifter "spectacles" or retainers. They were also drilled and tapped above the cam centerline to recieve the retainer hold down or "spider" and a cam retainer at the front of the block. The earlier blocks can be fitted with roller cam but will need expensive retro roller lifters.

Basically, any block with the one piece rear main seal will accept a factory roller cam whether it was so equipped from the factory or not(the trucks weren't). The parts to make the switch to roller cam are available cheap at any engine salvage. I would go with at least 10:1 compression to get into the 400hp range. You will want this compression to support the cam that 400hp will require, plus the higher compression will make more heat and gain you more power overall.

built91Z28 said it already and I'll second it. In my opinion it is a waste of resources to build a high performance engine without machine work. You will spend more on cylinder heads than it costs to have your block, crank, and rods prepared by a qualified engine machine shop. You want to get the full service to be safe. It starts with checking the block for cracks and true-ness of the crank centerline. Then the block is hot tanked, bored and honed with torque plates, decked(for deck height and true-ness). The crank is machined and balanced(balancing may be extra), the rods will be resized and balanced, and new pistons will be hung on the rods.

It is advisable to have the rotating assembly and block clearanced(often called blueprinting). Then cam bearings will be installed and, unless you want to do your own, freeze plugs installed. Getting this machine work done will assure that you don't end up with an expensive grenade.

The motor in my 87 was built 14 years ago and I like to romp on it. Right now, it runs 80psi oil pressure and I shift it at 6,800rpm as often as I want without a wimper. I had my crank balanced at 6,000rpm. The oil clearances were set at .0025 for 20w50 oil. My machinist sets roundness and clearances to a tolerance of .0001. I recieved my block and rotating assembly in a plastic bag, ready to assemble and did my own assembly. I would advise this only if you have a very clean place to work, experience with engines, the right tools, and plenty of patience. Otherwise, pay your machinist the extra $250 to assemble it for you.

You may want to go with new rods as the rods probably take more abuse than any other part of the bottom end. A good 5140 crome moly rod is good to about 550hp and is fairly cheap. A good quality hypereutectic piston will be fine as long as you don't go with nitrous or at least no more than a 75 shot. I hear of guys running more, even on stock pistons but this makes me nervous. More important than anything, buy a good oil pump. I run Melling's 10555 pump with bolt on pick up in all the small block chevys I build.

 

First Off ASE doc gave you alot of very good info. You have compression ratio guidelines and even a great oil pump to use. He also gave guidelines for helping choose a block. I would only make one change in that truck blocks started with roller cams in 96 until generally 2000. After that they were running the 5.3 or bigger LS series of engines.
One final word to consider. Look at his signature line, if says it all. "Half effort yeilds half results."
If you want to make the 400 HP right then do not try to cut corners.

 

thank you everyone for the replies and help, especially ASE doc very useful info.
for half the money.
when i get back to LA cal. i can get a rebuilt/refurbished 350 with new high compression hypereutectic pistons for 6-700 bucks thru coastal motors. so im not too worried about blowing a 400$ motor. i will just try not to kill the heads i buy.

 

The only problem with crate motors is you never know who built it. And I can assure that no great care was taken in prepping and assembling a $600 short block. Almost a guarantee that you will grenade it. Then again, we all have to learn things for ourselves.