Many questions... Rough engine despite Remanufactured carb, tune-up..
06-20-2012, 10:04 AM
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Car: 1984 Trans Am Recaro Edition
Engine: 355 L98 Vortec 226/234 custom cam
Transmission: TKO-600
Axle/Gears: On borrowed time...
Many questions... Rough engine despite Remanufactured carb, tune-up..
Current configuration:
Stock 305 HO. Remfg, Q-jet CCC. Carb has had the minimum idle and mixture adjustments without the dwell meter. Spark plugs replaced, wires replaced, dist. cap and rotor was replaced. It should be mentioned that when the rotor was replaced - no idea how old it was- it was completely loosened from the metal plate that its screwed to. I replaced it with a new rotor, then that also became loose. As I mentioned in an earlier post, with the negative batt. cable removed, I heard a "zap" when I disconnected the battery connection. Could that have cause an additional issue of a "short" or something in the ignition system?
New magnaflow cat and exhaust (may not matter anyway, but thought id mention it) .
Vacuum hoses appear in good condition, some were replaced.
Running 93 octane fuel.
Current issue:After tune up was completed, (many black crusted spark plugs were replaced, probably due to rich mixture from previous carb) car seemed to run fine for the 10 minute test drive in WOT. Then the car started hesitating at WOT in 2nd gear at around 3-4000 rpm. This has now led to bogging and the engine may stall out at idle. Engine runs very rough when releasing the clutch from idle. Needs significant throttle (2-2500) rpm for the engine to NOT die. Clicking sound is present.
When I shut down the engine I now hear a clicking sound that decreases. It almost sounds like something rotating and hitting something as it slows. Another loose rotor, perhaps? I tightened that rotor down. How can it get so loose so quickly?
Thanks for any help or heads up!
Chuck
Stock 305 HO. Remfg, Q-jet CCC. Carb has had the minimum idle and mixture adjustments without the dwell meter. Spark plugs replaced, wires replaced, dist. cap and rotor was replaced. It should be mentioned that when the rotor was replaced - no idea how old it was- it was completely loosened from the metal plate that its screwed to. I replaced it with a new rotor, then that also became loose. As I mentioned in an earlier post, with the negative batt. cable removed, I heard a "zap" when I disconnected the battery connection. Could that have cause an additional issue of a "short" or something in the ignition system?
New magnaflow cat and exhaust (may not matter anyway, but thought id mention it) .
Vacuum hoses appear in good condition, some were replaced.
Running 93 octane fuel.
Current issue:After tune up was completed, (many black crusted spark plugs were replaced, probably due to rich mixture from previous carb) car seemed to run fine for the 10 minute test drive in WOT. Then the car started hesitating at WOT in 2nd gear at around 3-4000 rpm. This has now led to bogging and the engine may stall out at idle. Engine runs very rough when releasing the clutch from idle. Needs significant throttle (2-2500) rpm for the engine to NOT die. Clicking sound is present.
When I shut down the engine I now hear a clicking sound that decreases. It almost sounds like something rotating and hitting something as it slows. Another loose rotor, perhaps? I tightened that rotor down. How can it get so loose so quickly?
Thanks for any help or heads up!
Chuck
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