Now I know everyone is going to bash me and say "SEARCH" but I've searched and haven't found a problem specifically like mine.

My car basically does what the title says. It doesn't want to start after it has been running for a while once it sits for 10-20 minutes or more. The car never gives me any problems on cold starts, fires right up and runs strong. My problem only happens once my car has been running for about twenty minutes or more after its been turned off when you go to start it back up. The fuel pump will prime, all of the dummy lights will go on, I get the chime, and nothing happens from the starter. It won't engage, it won't click, its like something is preventing it from working.

I had the starter replaced in the fall cuz the old one bit the dust. I began having problems with the new starter getting heat soaked so it was replaced under warranty. Then my mechanic changed my ignition switch, which made no difference whatsoever.

The weirdest thing about this problem, is that sometimes when it happens I can force the car to start by taking a piece of wire and running a bridge in the fuse box between the BAT and IGN locations. This works about 50% of the time. What am I bypassing that makes my car start when I do that?!

What in the world can my problem be? My guess is that it's something involved with a wire, relay, or something running to the starter. Basically I'm scared to drive my car anywhere unless I know I can let it sit for two hours before I need to move it again.

 

My '88 Firebird was doing this when I first bought it. As I drove it from Dallas to Corpus, I stopped in Austin for gas. It wouldn't start until I let it cool off for around 20 minutes. I eventually replaced the starter; and when I did, I placed a solenoid heat shield that I had got from U-Pull-It to cover the solenoid. It has not left me stranded since then. The heat shield is similiar to what autozone sells as pictured. Good luck.

 

As much as I wish that'd solve it for me, I've already got a heat shield on it exactly like what youve shown me, and it doesn't make a difference. I'm so stumped.

 

i just had thing happen with my car would start fine on cold starts for about a week then it wouldt start at all so i bought a new starter and it fixed the problem they must just get worn out and only wanna start when cold.

 

As much as I wish that was my problem, I've already replaced the starter twice and keep having the EXACT same problem over and over again.

 

Posted from Thirdgen.org App for Android

 

that makes me think it coud be the wire that runs from the battery to the starter maybe the heat is causing a bad connection or its melted in some place


Posted from Thirdgen.org App for Android

 

Possibly. Because it only happens when the car is hot. It has never happened on a cold start.

 

My

Power cable from battery to starter as stated; check for a voltage drop & amperage at the starter after operation. (i.e. check voltage/amperage at starter when cold, note voltage/amps; check voltage/amperage at starter after hot, compare both test numbers).
Also, as good practice, check your positive and negative leads to starter and block for wear and corrosion. Not saying that it is the case, but I've had starting issues due to corrosion.

You can also check the ignition module in the distributor cap; Inspect the bottom of the distributor to see if the heat vent holes are clean and do not have a build up of grime. Also the bottom of the module should have a paste that helps dissipate heat, if the paste is dried up it can cause heat build up issues. Some auto part stores can also test to see if your module is working within specs so check with them to see if they can do this service.

 

it's been mentioned already, but check the ground cable. Make sure connections are clean and tight. There are only a few things that could be affected by heat soak and you already replaced the two most likely. I had a similar issue in a 92 Chrysler about a year after I ran through some pretty deep water. Come to find out, water had intruded the positive battery cable and corroded it on teh inside of the insulation. Everything on the outside looked fine.

 

Thanks for the input everyone! One thing I've gotta point out is that it has to be something related to heat. So I'll check everything mentioned here and get back with an update as to whether or not I've fixed this problem.

 

Still no luck... how do you check a fuseable link?

 

Please help me!

 

You have headers?

Stock starter, rebuilt replacement, mini starter?

If its the stock starter the solenoid doesnt like the heat. Even some aftermarket starters still do this.

When a solenoid is heat soaked it will not even click most of the time.

Easy fix...Mini starter with a solenoid relocation kit. Will end your problems forever. I have dealt with this countless times. relocation kits are only around 30$ and a 5 year old can install them.

 

Stock headers. Aftermarket Y-pipe. Had a mechanic (terrible idea) replace the stock starter a year ago with a supossed "OEM" unit. Ever since then I've been having this problem. I've thought about installing a mini starter myself and hopes that solves the problem. One thing I've thought of is if I use header wrap on my starter, would that help the current one?

 

So you mean stock manifolds?

You can try whatever you like, doesnt mean it will work. Stock starters are notorious for burning up since day one on these cars.

What works is changing the starter out for a mini hitachi or pmgr starter, and if your headers are to close wrap the thing in fiberglass mat. Your other option is to install a solenoid relocation kit like I said. Relocates the solenoid to a place that not too hot. Since the solenoid is not even clicking I would recomend the relocation, if it wasnt an issue with the solenoid your starter would just be cranking real slow if it was an issue with the starter motor itself.

These are things that work. So I would personally recommend doing it the right way the first time, and to save your self from sliding under the car more than once.

 

The best is call you dealer if it's still under warranty. There might be a problem on the engine. A charity that makes winter jackets for the homeless recently received a substantial gift from General Motors. The company donated excess car insulation, which makes the coat lining. I have to buy a car that works well for me. Hope you could fix your car immediately.

 

"Your other option is to install a solenoid relocation kit..."

FYI
The Solenoid and the plunger within it that kicks the starter gear out to engage the flex plate ring gear cannot be relocated.
What can be done is isolating the ignition circuit from the starter circuit so that the Ignition, and Park/neutral safety switches and wiring do not carry any of the current load that they are normally subjected to.
This is the same method used to isolate high current devices, headlights, fans...etc. As can be seen in the attached modified diagram, the added remote relay reduces the current and therefore the heat caused by high current normally flowing through it.

Over the years the open area for air circulation under the hood has slowly disappeared even, in 4 cylinder engine bays forcing engine manufactures to solve a problem that could have been solved 30 years ago, with the addition of one relay, go figure...
However this will not help solenoids that are actually affected by "heat soak."

Ok, enough of my ranting.

 

Never updated this thread....

The problem ended up being something so small. After checking all of the wiring, and I mean ALL of it related to the starter, I discovered that the power wire that runs from my ignition switch to the starter had been spliced into at one point by the previous owner for what looks like what may have been an alarm system. Well, the car had no alarm system when I bought it so it was removed at one point before. The previous owner attempted to "splice" the power wire back together but it was hardly making contact. So by simply properly re-splicing the power wire back together, I have not had any hot start problem since. So weird.

 

Okay, I am having the same problem only it takes about an hour to cool and makes a zzz sound trying to turn over almost sounding like a dead battery.I am going to try the heat shield first and work my way from there

 

About 2 weeks ago i had the same problem, I would have to wait up to 30 minutes to start the car again, then I read a few threats and I finally found the solution. I installed a remote solenoid $20 + an $8 Battery cable.

 

I installed a starter heat shield by Mr. Gasket several months ago, which solved my heat-soak issue until warmer weather set in.

I did the solenoid relocation described here - just before a mini-heat wave (temps near 100) hit the Portland area - and my car has been starting without incident ever since!

I went to a #2-gage cable for the power to the starter, too.