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So car was originally an 89 tbi and u started using a 92 tbi engine and harness? When u go to tpi ,u need to repin the harness at the ecm.There are also some changes u need to make at the C100 connector for speedometer to work.
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No I'm using a 92 ecm/harness... The original car was totaled and was a auto... The owner swapped everything into a 89 t5 tbi shell. So I'm guessing that's why the nss is there ?? Ran fine with tbi which was all 92 and the speedo is Manual... Grr I'm so close to going back to it 

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ok, then you need to do this. Its called a 746 to 730 ecm swap re-pinning. Refer to this attachment i sent you. You will need to unplug the ecm and look at the harness connector there. Repin according to the chart. Also, when all is said and done, you will need to make sure you repin one wire on your c100 connector ,so your speedo will work.Originally Posted by Chris_89rs
No I'm using a 92 ecm/harness... The original car was totaled and was a auto... The owner swapped everything into a 89 t5 tbi shell. So I'm guessing that's why the nss is there ?? Ran fine with tbi which was all 92 and the speedo is Manual... Grr I'm so close to going back to it
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You are using a 1990-92 ecm right?
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Yeah it's a 730 ecm , everything came off a factory Camaro harness tpi heads and ecm what's the re pin for ??
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My speedo works it's cable driven
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Ok, wasnt sure if you actually replaced the harness with a 90-92 one
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would the 12v i was giving the pin for vats mess up the ecm?well what i did not thinking right, ,i traced the orange wire running from the vats fuse and at the c207 connector plugged it into the vats wire (blue) coming out of the ecm? I get no crank but i did buy a ignition switch ?
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friday i will be putting a good day worth of work into it, I'll be back then! thanks again everyone! I'll be sure to make a nice video when shes running again!


f10 of the 730 ecm is vats or maf in some applications 5v so very posable you damaged the ecm.
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92 tpi harnessOriginally Posted by ninetyone
First of all what harness are you using? U are using a 92 tbi harness right? Chris_89rs
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Ok guys update .... Cleaned the grounds installed the ground strap .. Changed the prom into new ecm.. Fuel pump primed... Same problem .. Found out my starter is crapping out ... Any ideas !!???!!!!!
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am i missing something ???
also while i'm cranking it over the fuel pump kicks on as it should it started up but with starting fluid again
grounds are good??
also while i'm cranking it over the fuel pump kicks on as it should it started up but with starting fluid again
grounds are good??
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ok guys this is where I'm at... its driving me crazy !!!
How do you have the test light hooked up? Is the one side to 12V or ground. On the other side, which wire of the injector are you connecting to. One is hot when the key is on and the other gets grounded intermittently by the ECM effectively pulsing the injector. The ECM would never ground the injectors continuously unless the engine was at max RPM under max load, and even then the duty cycle might not be 100%. So I don't know why the light would be on continuously like that.Originally Posted by Chris_89rs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BXxqAX8Mw0U&feature=plcpok guys this is where I'm at... its driving me crazy !!!
You should hook one side to 12V and the other to the wire going to the ECM (you should be able to get both of these signals from one unplugged injector connector with the key on. You should see the light flash as you crank the engine over.
Have you checked all of your injector's resistance with an ohm meter?
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Ok I have 12 v going to the injector ground and with a noid light I get nothing ??
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I'm not sure what exactly you have, but hook one end of the noid light into the injector plug and the other end to the other connector in the same injector plug. You should get flashes when cranking. Keep a close eye on your fuses for the injectors.
Keep in mind that the ECM grounds the injectors, it doesn't switch a +12V signal to them. That means that all the injectors have 12V power going to on pin in the connector whenever the key is on (and the fuses are good). The other pin will switch between floating (no connection to anything, but will appear to have 12V present because the voltage is passing thru the coils of the injectors that are plugged in) and being grounded when the ECM wants the injector on. Unplug all injectors to eliminate the other paths for 12V to flow around on, at least while testing right now. No need to push gas into the engine by inadvertantly providing a ground path thru the noid light for the injectors to turn on.
Keep in mind that the ECM grounds the injectors, it doesn't switch a +12V signal to them. That means that all the injectors have 12V power going to on pin in the connector whenever the key is on (and the fuses are good). The other pin will switch between floating (no connection to anything, but will appear to have 12V present because the voltage is passing thru the coils of the injectors that are plugged in) and being grounded when the ECM wants the injector on. Unplug all injectors to eliminate the other paths for 12V to flow around on, at least while testing right now. No need to push gas into the engine by inadvertantly providing a ground path thru the noid light for the injectors to turn on.
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when i tested the ground, i had all injectors un plugged .. when I put a noid light to it nothing happens... when i check the ground wires to the injector (green/blue) i use a 12v test light .. it lights up with the key on off and stays on with the key in start .. but when any injector is plugged in the light turns off????
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this is a video of the car starting with a little starting fluid
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This sounds like the ECM is refusing (or is unable) to pulse the injectors. Using the test light verify 12V is present on one injector pin when the key is on and that it supplies enough current to turn on the test light. This will verify that the fuses and wiring are in tact and that enough power is present to fire the injector. If that checks out then the ECM is probably refusing to pulse the injector due to VATS or some other issue. Checking codes should help. I'm not sure exactly what other things will make the ECM not pulse the injectors, but not detecting ignition pulses (such as when the engine is not running or cranking over) is one of them and I THINK that no oil pressure (as detected by the ECM sensor, not the gauge sensor) will do it too.Originally Posted by Chris_89rs
when i tested the ground, i had all injectors un plugged .. when I put a noid light to it nothing happens... when i check the ground wires to the injector (green/blue) i use a 12v test light .. it lights up with the key on off and stays on with the key in start .. but when any injector is plugged in the light turns off???? Chris_89rs
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Ok the injector plug marks 12 v when all injectors are disconnected but when the key moves to the run position it won't light up the noid light ??? Unless I manually ground the noid this is with the key on and off
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Ok checked pluse and hot in run ill be posting more videos
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ok I got some video ...
and another
and one more
another
another
another
last one
and another
and one more
another
another
another
last one
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everything seems to be fine?
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update on my car !!! I was probing it with the test light hooked to 12 to the injector just for kicks and as i turned the car over it started to flash!!
i then heard a pop as if the engine was trying to start ... i then hook up my noid light in to one of the injector plugs and cranked the motor and again it flashed !!?? i plugged the injector back up and tried cranking it nothing but that pop again so i hooked up the ses light to see if it worked and it did (using my noid light) lol and then i grounded the test terminal and just got a 12 over and over... I stopped the ecm test and tried starting her up and she would start but die out soon after?? battery was going dead?
i then heard a pop as if the engine was trying to start ... i then hook up my noid light in to one of the injector plugs and cranked the motor and again it flashed !!?? i plugged the injector back up and tried cranking it nothing but that pop again so i hooked up the ses light to see if it worked and it did (using my noid light) lol and then i grounded the test terminal and just got a 12 over and over... I stopped the ecm test and tried starting her up and she would start but die out soon after?? battery was going dead?
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Got it to idle !!! Map didn't have the hose connected ! Thanks everybody
vids up soon
vids up soonJunior Member
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vids up soon
what was the issue/fix having the same problemOriginally Posted by Chris_89rs
Got it to idle !!! Map didn't have the hose connected ! Thanks everybody
vids up soon aliceempire
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he says in the text you quoted, the map wasn't connectedOriginally Posted by Kd161009
what was the issue/fix having the same problem Junior Member
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yes he did. I have a speed density car, would it have the same hose? Assuming vacuum hoseOriginally Posted by aliceempire
he says in the text you quoted, the map wasn't connected aliceempire
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yes, speed density uses a MAP sensor. It would have manifold vacuum attached to the sensor with a very short elbow from the factory. The MAP is on the passenger side of the plenum towards the back. The vacuum 'line' is only a couple inches long. It is little more than a couple inches longOriginally Posted by Kd161009
yes he did. I have a speed density car, would it have the same hose? Assuming vacuum hose aliceempire
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yes, speed density uses a MAP sensor. It would have manifold vacuum attached to the sensor with a very short elbow from the factory. The MAP is on the passenger side of the plenum towards the back. The vacuum 'line' is only a couple inches long. It is honestly just a short rubber elbow tubeOriginally Posted by Kd161009
yes he did. I have a speed density car, would it have the same hose? Assuming vacuum hose







