I was driving home and my engine shot off got it towed home to work on it.

When I got home I took off the battery/starter/altanator . Altanator was bad so I replaced it .and still it didn't turn on. So I changed all the spark plugs wires distributor cap rotor pick up coil and ignition module and still nothing I replaced the iac unit mafsensor and the throttle sensor and still nothing . I checked the ecm for any codes and
no codes show up . Also checked fuses all of them are good What can be the problem car was running great till the day it took a poop . can some one please help me thank u

 

Does it crank? If so, I'd check the fuel pressure, seems like youve replaced everything else.

 

Checked the fuel pressure its getting gas. Could it be the timing chain?

 

Pop the cap on the distributor, line up the crank pulley mark to zero. The rotor should be pointing to the #1 or #4 terminal on the dist. cap.
Check for power at the coil, one side is steady voltage (key on) the other is flashing voltage (as the engine is cranking).

 

Do I need s timing gun to line the crank fully to zero?

 

Look at the front of the engine, the balancer has a notch on it, line it up to zero on the timing scale. Use a wrench or socket to turn the engine to the mark.

 

I got a spark tester and checked if the the ignition coil was sending spark to the distributor but its not I bought 2 ignition coils and none of them send spark. I got a current tester and one connector to the ignition coil is getting juice to it but the other is not. Any help?

 

Sounds familiar.

See https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/v6/6...amaro-not.html

 

Call your parts store before you go.

They probably will test your ICM for you for free.

 

Ok , the ignition coil is the icm unit that I'm not getting spark from.could test I tried to pull out the icm out but I found out that it was being held by rivets. So I'm going to get the drill out rightnow .. so what could keep the icm unit from sending spark besides the unit being bad. Because I had bought 2 icms before and got no spark from them either.

 

Are you saying that your 89 has the coil mounted on the distributor?

My 88 v6 has the coil not on the distributor.

How did you previously have two bad ICM's if the original ICM'S is still riveted to the distributor?

 

Summit shows the coil for the 89 V6 also as a part separate from the distributor.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/y...0coil%20camaro

 

Then just as soon as I write that, I look closer, and I see that on-distributor and off-distributor versions coil-versions exist for the V6.

Even with the distributor-mounted coils, the ICM is STILL a different part, and is separate from the coil.

The ICM is simply a solid-state replacement for the "points" that used to be inside a distributor. We no longer have points, because an ICM is simply a better device. Of course, we do still have a coil, and it does the same thing it always did, and in pretty much the same manner as it always did. I'm pretty sure the ICM uses magnets to close the circuit, as opposed to the points which used mechanical movement to close the circuit.

As far as I know, the ICM on your Camaro is always going to be located somewhere on the circumference of the distributor - although the ICM can be found elsewhere on other cars. Maybe GM wants to throw us a curve and stash the ICM on your 89 V6 somewhere else.

The fact that you say you have to drill-out some rivets to get the ICM off your distributor makes me think it probably isn't hiding somewhere else in this case.

Be sure to use the silicone grease when re-installing the ICM.
This is not optional.

Two flavors of Camaro V6 distributors:

My 88 is configured as the former.
I understand you to be saying your 89 is configured as the latter.

 

Ok I got my icm checked and its good , should I try hot wiring my car to see if it turns on like tht?

 

Is their a way to test the b and c connector and terminal ... I rebuilt the distributor could it still be bad?

 

I'm honestly not sure what you mean by "hot wiring."

Assuming that your ICM and coil have each been tested, and were determined to each be in good condition, this whole problem is sounding line a bad ground, or a shorted connection in the wiring that feeds into and off of the ignition circuit.

Make sure everything that is supposed to get power has power, and make sure everything that is supposed to be grounded is actually grounded.



From: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/v6/6...6-2-8l-no.html

 

While you're at it, pull the codes off the ALDL, to make sure its not something like the VATS system throwing a bollocks on the whole process.

 

Hot wiring it to get it to start. I d

 

I don't know what to do its giving me a headache trying to fix it but ill Check to see if theirs anything grounding it.

 

Theirs no codes coming up. You think that one of the part on my distributor might be bad?

 

Is your transmission automatic or stick-shift?

(want to eliminate the neutral safety-switch as a possibility)

 

It's an automatic

 

In that case you can scratch the neutral safety switch off the list of possible suspects.

 

Do you own a 12-volt test-light?

Do you have power to the coil when your ignition is turned on?

Do you have continuity across your coil?

Here are a couple really basic vids for you:

 

So I fixed the problem the timing chain had broke. So I had a shop fix it but now that I'm driving my car I noticed that iwhn I'm driving and I slow down and I come to a stop it wants to die or dies when the fone go under 800 rpm it wants to die , whn it goes under 500rpm it dies. But it turns right back on whn I put it in natural or park. I also notice when I put the turn signals the battery drops under 13 volts. What might be the cause to these things