calgutie

iTrader: (3)

So I went to NAPA the other day and bought the gaskets and this is what came inside the box. As for the rubber fittings ive heard not to use these and just use red RTV instead, but my real question is that when I am actually setting these on the block how do I have they stay put?and also wat is the little metal piece and gasket o ring that I got with the set used for?thanks!

8t2 z-chev

the silicone rubber you apply in place of the rubber seals at front and back will help hold the intake gaskets in place as manifold is lowered into place.The metal piece is a restrictor for the heat passage and is installed in certain applications.The round gasket is for the distributor.

ex-x-fire

I like to use alittle weather strip adhesive to hold them, use a couple of bolts to keep them in line. Those metal pieces are egr valve restrictors, they go in the middle of the intake gasket, only use them if the old gaskets were restricted.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Yup; or, little scraps of that thin box tape.

It helps to smear a thin schmeer of sealant around the water passages, BUT NOT around the intake ports or the exhaust holes. Also don't forget to put a drop of sealant on the threads of the 4 center bolts on each side; as you can see they look RIGHT STRAIGHT INTO the crankcase, and oil will seep up through there and pool on the intake.

Best sealant to use is "The Right Stuff"; comes in a pressurized can. Best way to ptu it together is, set teh intake on with no gaskets first, and mark where it goes with a Sharpie or something; schmeeer a thin layer on the block where the intake will sit on it, at the ends (paying attention to your marks so you don't disturb them); lay the gaskets in place with the holding method, and splooooot a bit of sealer into each of the 4 corners where the block, head, & itnake come together; lay a bead on the block about ¼" wide and not quite that tall, just inside of your Sharpie marks; let is set up for 20 minutes or so; schmeeer a bit of sealer onto the ends of the intake, and drop it in place, STRAIGHT DOWN, get it right the first time, NO SLIDING IT AROUND. Let it sit there for another 15-20 minutes or so, then tighten hand tight (maybe 5 ft-lbs or so. Wait a couple of hours, then tighten em all to spec (~30 ft-lbs) in 3 steps like 10, 20, then 30 ft-lbs, starting with the center 2 on each side and moving outwards toward the ends; keep going back and re-tightening them however many times it takes until they're all at 30, BUT NO MORE. DON'T over-tighten them.

joshc

iTrader: (1)

I've been using "the Right stuff" for a couple years also on intakes for a couple years as well. It works fantastic!

I usually smear a thin coating around the water jacket area of the gasket (both sides)
This not only seals up the water jackets well, but will hold the gaskets in place on the heads. Make sure the center valley sealing surface is clean and grease/oil free. Then lay a nice bead of Right Stuff across the valley and overlap just a little onto the intake gasket.

calgutie

iTrader: (3)

alright thanks for the help you guys another question, I should be fine as for my intake manifold that I will be installing which is a edelbrock 2101 with hood clearance. I will be putting my stock q-jet on with an K&N Open air element.

calgutie

iTrader: (3)

So so far I was able to put everything together but now when I went to turn it on, it woudltn wanna tyurn over..so im guessing that it has to do with something in the ignition...will check it out in the morning since I do need my car since i got work on thursday but here are some piks of how ti has come out sofar..

and with this intake it doesn fit with my stock hood...but it seems to me that it barely clears.











Also another question when I removed my distributor I saw this connection in the back that was disconnected and apparently it has always been unplugged...exactly whats is it for???since it has never been plugged in....and yes thats how my car was running..

joshc

iTrader: (1)

That is a computer controlled HEI.
Computer controls the advance curve. The car may run without it plugged in, but you will get no ignition advance as there is no vacuum or mechanical advance mechanism.
I would imagine it would be a real dog with out a proper ignition curve.
You could try hooking it back up and see how it runs, or you could just get an older non computer controlled HEI and that would have your standard vacuum advance cand and centrifugal advance weights.

calgutie

iTrader: (3)

ohh ok I see...so it it necessarily a bad thing to leave it unplugged kus so far i cant find where exactly its meant to be plugged into..

calgutie

iTrader: (3)

ohhh and what exactly is ignition advance...

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

It is absolutely necessary to have it plugged in; otherwise, the engine will run REAL lazy at all times, run hot, and get TERRIBLE gas mileage.

The ignition timing ("advance") is the relationship of the point during the engine's rotation that the spark occurs, compared to the position of the piston. It's expressed in degrees... so many degrees "before top dead center". Since gas requires time to burn, the spark ALWAYS has to occur BTDC; but since it requires a different amount of time to burn under different circumstances, and because each "degree" occupies less TIME as the RPMs (speed) increase, then the spark timing must advance (occure earlier) as RPMs increase (because of the time thing), and as load decreases (as you go from acceleration toward cruising) because the leaner and thinner mixture takes longer to burn.

When "setting" the "timing", you unplug that plug, which disables all that "compensation", and allows you to see the actual mechanical relationship of spark vs crank. Then with it plugged in, the computer applies the appropriate adjustments. They are HUGE: expect roughly 20° of adjustment at idle, and as much as 50° at cruise. It's always funny to see people around here argue about the difference between 6° or 8° or whatever in the "static" setting (the point where the dist is bolted in at), when comared to the MASSIVE changes the computer makes in it.

Without proper advance, it will run sluggish and lazy because of the lack of "compensation" for RPMs, and get terrible gas mileage because of the very poor efficiency of not having it at cruise, and overheat because the same amount of heat is still being produced by burning the fuel but instead of being turned into mechanical energy to push the car it goes into the cooling system and the exhaust.

Additionally, the car won't pass inspection without that. If for no other reason you need to assemble the car as perfectly correctly as possible.

Bottom line, find the plug, plug it back in. It's not really that "hard".

I'd also suggest getting rid of all that .... stuff .... in those wires at the right in your pic. You can buy that little harness there for a few pennies at Da Zone. That right there will leave you sitting beside the road with a non-running car someday REAL SOON. Now's the time to straighten out all the brutally mangled and hacked-up stuff of that sort that's always in the pics you post, as you come across it. It makes ALOT more sense to be spending money time and effort on cleaning up that sort of thing than on swapping parts that you'll just have to restore the originals back later.

calgutie

iTrader: (3)

yea u got a point...

update:

So I tried finding the #1 on my distributor and i put a rag down piston #1 and turn th engine over and when I heard it pop out the rag i stopped..udid my cap and redid the wiring as to where the distributor was pointing to #1....finished everything, went back to turn on the car..and still nothing....

NEED Help..plz..

ChrisC

From what I interpreted, it sounds to me like you are trying to set timing incorrectly.

Instead of typing the steps out, here's an old but simple thread where Sofakingdom explains how to set TDC...https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...-find-tdc.html

From what I gathered from your above post, calgutie, you were trying to set TDC after you dropped the dist in already, correct? You'll find the correct procedure in the copy and pasted thread.

calgutie

iTrader: (3)

cool...il looked into it and it saying that I need to pull the plugs I got hooker 2055 headers on my car and its a pint to remove them anyone got a trick on how to remove them with those on?

ChrisC

You only need to remove plug #1 when timing...you are only searching to find TDC on cyl #1. That post is a step by step, pay special attention to the first part which talks about the correct way to spin with the crank pulley.

oamhmad

iTrader: (1)

I don't think he's going to get to work on thursday.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

May also want to look at the kink in the fuel line about 4-5"s from the carb.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

someone must hate you I have never seen so many scotch locks in one place.

calgutie

iTrader: (3)

I didnt get to work on thursday..had to borrom someones car LOL....but shoot I wanna turn the engine manually to be able to be more accurate than turnning the engine over with a key but with these hooker 2055s it near impossible to get all of the plugs off...

joshc

iTrader: (1)

I think Scotch lock connectors were invented by Satan himself!

calgutie

iTrader: (3)

lol i love those little devils

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

you won't be loving them when you have electrical issues due to half severed wires and corrosion

calgutie

iTrader: (3)

funny enough those were supposed to be "temporary" but they haven't been so temporary ever since I installed them..what would you recommend on the proper way in doing this?

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

the wires are f'd now, if you need to test back probe connectors. Removing the terminal ends and shrink tubing will help.

calgutie

iTrader: (3)

alright ima do that next paycheck aka tomorrow =)....what else do you recommend to make these look cleaner kus I hate how when everything is nice but you see nasty wire colors coming out on the sides.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Cut the wires where they've been destroyed by those things; strip em back about ¾" each side of the cut; twist real good & solder; use heat shrink tubing w sealer in side it. (slide it on BEFORE soldering!!!)

http://www.theelectricaldepot.com/he...ible-flow-156/

Then tape up the harnesses so the wires aren't flying loose like that, and/or get some split-loom tubing for it.

ChrisC

Why do you think that you need to pull all of the plugs...

calgutie

iTrader: (3)

to move the engine by hand...and okay you guys know I am back onto the manifold....exactly where on the manifold do I connect the hose that comes from the heater core...?I found both of these "*****" I guess you could say but I looked closer and it looks like there "welded" on there. I tried turning them and they seem very tight, and don't wanna force it....am I doing ti right?

calgutie

iTrader: (3)

okay so I tried turning the "bolt" thats on the passengers side...left side of picture, and It pretty much stripped that thing is extremely on there...but it looks to em as if if has been "welded" on there....you think I could just use a drill bit and make my own whole retread it, and put my own fitting on there?

calgutie

iTrader: (3)

update: So I took th emanifold to my buddys machine shop and they were able to make a whole and re-thread it to fit the "nipple"...what do you guys think?

calgutie

iTrader: (3)

Okay ive installed everything and still car is not starting...Ive found #1 on TDC and plugged everything and when I went to crank it it just wont start....this thing is really starting to annoy me now.

ChrisC

Are you sure that you found TDC for cyl 1 on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke?

calgutie

iTrader: (3)

what do you mean...?whats the difference/?

ChrisC

#1 will come up on both the compression stroke and at the end of the exhaust stroke for #1, (which is also the compression stroke for #6). Pull plug 1 and when you feel air coming out of the spark plug hole you are getting close. As soon as that air stops you are at TDC (or more realistically very close). Verify with the timing mark on your harmonic balancer that it is approaching the zero mark on your timing tab. It will probably not be right on the money in the first place but that's okay.

joshc

iTrader: (1)

Did you check to make sure the distributor rotor was pointing to the #1 terminal on the dist. cap when you found TDC?

calgutie

iTrader: (3)

I am sure I found #1 TDC but I wanna say that its something else with the distributor....becuase I removed the plu my dad was holding a screw driver inside the piston and as I cranked the engine is slowly went up by the time it was all the way to the top thats were I made the mark on the distributor.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

There are 2 #1 TDC instances during a complete engine cycle; but only 1 is #1 firing. The other is at the end of the #1 exhaust stroke and beginning of its intake stroke. Happens to also be #6 firing. If you dropped the dist in when the motor was at that "other" #1 TDC and pointed the rotor at the #1 plug wire, it's impossible for the engine to run.

Find #1 TDC FIRING, NOT JUST #1 TDC, by the compression method, and re-stab the dist.

For optimum plug wire routing, like the factory had it, #1 & #8 should be facing the front, with #1 just to the driver's side of straight t the front and #8 just to the pass side. The motor will "work" with the dist ANYWHERE, as long as the wires are plugged into the cap such that the rotor points to the cyl that's at firing position when it gets to it; but as said, for optimum wire routing, put it back like the factory had it.

ChrisC

You have to read our posts man in order for us to help you! Your issue would most likely be resolved by now if you read that article I sent you on how to properly find TDC on the CORRECT stroke.

calgutie

iTrader: (3)

ok you guys I might of skimmed through it...Ill read it over carefully this time..because I am really hating my car just about now....

calgutie

iTrader: (3)

Alright guys here an update: I finally got the engine to start but now its running rough, and for some reason smoke is coming out of some part of the engine....I will look more into it tomorrow morning. but hopefully its something obvious. ohhh and I set the timing to a little less than 0 and its got a high idle problem I already plugged up the vacuum leaks on the carb...so any other suggestion?thanks!

ChrisC

Timing spec for an 83 Lg4 should be 6 degrees BTDC so depending on your definition of a little less than 0, you might be at 6* BTDC or you might not. If not, fix this. Make sure to check everywhere for a vacuum leak also.

calgutie

iTrader: (3)

Yes vacuum leaks make a huge difference...I will recheck them. and I will also recheck the timing..you think Ill feel a difference with this new manifold on?

ChrisC

Nah you probably won't feel any noticeable difference or even see a difference on a dyno with it. The original wasn't all that bad from the factory

calgutie

iTrader: (3)

even if I got my full exhaust on it..?

ChrisC

Woops forgot your stock exhaust was long gone. In that case, yes you probably will gain a bit of power.

calgutie

iTrader: (3)

jaja well im glad to hear that in that case...taht was the whole reason why i upgraded in maifolds becuase I had heard that stock exhasut and aftermarket manifold, dont really do much LOL

calgutie

iTrader: (3)

Alright guys so here is a short video on it finally starting up and running...Let me know what you guys think..and excuse the messy wiring.