I got hold of engine from someone who had it built in Californina somehwere by a guy called Wild Bill. Im in the UK so its hard to find out.
To cut a long story short its spec is as follow as far as i can work out -
4 bolt mains block
Balanced crank and pistons
The pistons have number written on them so i guess that has something to do with it.

No idea on the camshaft - dont really want to strip it to look for markings?
It had edlebrock Performer 6089 alluminium heads that have been ported by the looks.


It has roller rockers with Competition Cams push rods

The only other markings I can find are these -

Any ideas what they are??????

 

i think its a 5.7 engine -



i tried measuring the bore and stroke today from under the crank.
It came out roughly to be a standard 350 ish?
any way to know for sure?

 

If the crank has a casting/forging number, that'll tell its stroke.

Looks like alot of relatively high $$ parts; nothing over-the-top exotic, but not out of a junkyard either.

The heads don't really look like they've been "ported". Just "gasket matched". That's mostly eye candy. Where porting MATTERS, is down in the bowl, aorund the valve seat; and around the valve guide. Can't be "sure" from the pics, but neither of those places looks like they've been touched.

As far as the cam, put a dial indicator on the edge of an intake lifter and an exhaust lifter, and rotate it through 2 full revolutions; that'll give you the lift at least. About all that can be told from what we can see is that it's not a roller. Which is no surprise, given that the block is much older than the factory roller system, and therefore would have been relatively expensive to "retrofit".

 

Where do i find the casting number on the crank?

 

Usually on the side of one of the rod throws... that being about the only place that no machining ever occurs to.

Just inspect the crank from end to end; turn it 90° and repeat; repeat and repeat; repeat until you're back where you started. Post up any numbers or other markings you find. Might not even be a GM crank, for all we know out here so far. Can't tell that in the pics one way or the other.

 

Your other "plus' is that it appears to be a high tin/high nickel case casting, as the "010 / 020" identifiers would indicate.

 

Bought an engine not knowing what it is...or at least what it is supposed to be?

 

Bit of a long story but i saw it on uk ebay -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Porsche-91...p2047675.l2557

I ended up swapping a 2004 vw beetle i picked up for next to nothing with an easily fixed engine issue ( I own a small specialist Audi VAG workshop in the uk).
I had plenty of emails from the seller describing the engine - i moved the rest of the 911 kit on straight away although i still have the radiator that may find its way into the Camaro - its made by Ron Davis in California.
The engine was built by someone called Wild Bill somewhere in California.
This was confirmed by the company the guy purchased the kit from inc copies of bill of sale etc.
They listed the engine as Built by 'Bill' described as ally heads balanced etc appx 475hp but nearer to 500 on uk gas which is higher octane.
We made the trade but it didnt go smoothly so he was less than forthcoming with the details and a few small parts.
It did come with a new HEI distributer and Holley all boxed new so i was happy.
I just dont know the exact spec and dont want to strip it all down.
I will try to measure the lift of the cam tomorrow !

 

Looks like someone weighed the pistons and drilled them on the pads to get them within a specific range. Rods have what appear to be ARP bolts on then.

Someone did go through some not basic steps on it like the glyptal job on the valley and bellhousing side probably the same on the timing chain side.

Seeing the little rust spot on the crank counterweights, I would mist some oil on there asap. Looks a little dry.

 

The whole thing has ARP bolts used as far as i can see.
I will be lube it up well before the rest goes on.
Can i fill the oil pump while the engine is upside down, turn it over by hand to pump it round?

Also I'm struggling with what this means ? -
Someone id go through some not basic steps on it like the glyptal job on the valley and bellhousing side probably the same on the timing chain side.

Please can you explain?

 

Glyptal was used to promote better oil run-off back to the sump. I also understand that it would kind of "seal" the casting preventing any loose casting sand/debris from floating around in the engine.

The only famous "Wild Bill" that I can recall in CA was Wild Bill Shrewsberry. But he was mainly a driver and didn't campaign anything with a Chevrolet engine.

 

Disclaimer: I worked at a distributor of electric motor and transformer rewinding supplies from the mid-70s to a little after 80

"Glyptal" was a PRODUCT LINE of electric motor paint made by GE. Long since vanished from the face of the Earth. Since it was a PRODUCT LINE as opposed to a PRODUCT, there were all sorts of variations of stuff under that name; different colors, different thicknesses, different compounds altogether to the point that except for the label there was no similarity whatsoever, etc. Silicones, urethanes, alkyds, epoxies, 1-part, 2-part, you name it.

It was kinda funny... most of what we sold was in 55-gallon drums. Occasionally we'd have it in "small" quantities, mostly those 10-gallon pails. So we'd get orders for a pallet of drums etc. ... then from time to time somebody that didn't know A DAMN THING about electric motors would wander up to the counter and want to buy it; and of course, didn't matter what we had, it cost too much (they always wanted to P&M about the price) and they only wanted TINY quantities, like, a quart was too much. Once in a while we'd have a couple of spray cans as samples to give away to people that knew what they were doing, and we'd haggle with em until we figured out how much money they thought they should pay for it and let em have our "free" samples for however much that was. Well then in about 77 or so I guess it was, I bought a copy of one of David Vizard's books, and it talked all about painting blocks with "Glyptal". It clicked.

To this day, even though GE hasn't made Glyptal for nigh onto 30 years now, and has been COMPLETELY out of that business for most of that time (got out in the mid 80s if memory serves), people still want "Glyptal" because "Daivd Vizard said so". It's sort of taken on a life of its own in this hobby. If I'm not mistaken, some enterprising huckster actually had some labels printed with that word on them a few years ago, and hawked em ... somewhere .... until somebody shut him down. Living proof of the UNDENIABLE FACT OF HUMAN NATURE that, if people DEMAND something by name, someone will step up and sell them SOMETHING under that name, regardless of any underlying reality. (see "Vortec" and "Vette" for currently popular examples of this phenomnon)

Anyway, FORGET about "Glyptal", you're NOT going to be finding any. But: I'll let you in on a little secret: ANY kind of electric motor varnish will work just as well. You can prolly get something that will work just fine at Grainger, or whatever similar supply house you have in your own country (I have no doubt there is such a place everywhere in the world). For that matter, any kind of good-quality engine enamel these days is at least 95% as good as that old crap back then was, and alot of it is probably BETTER. Just don't be a dumba$$ and walk up to some electric supply counter and try to buy "Glyptal", because anybody over the age of about 45 who knows what that actually was, will tag you as a dumba$$ hot-rodder THE INSTANT that word comes out of your mouth.

But yes, the purpose is to promote oil drainback, by painting the inside of the crankcase with something slick, subject to the requirement that it can't dissolve in oil and must stand up to the moderate puny faint warmth found in a car engine which is NOWHERE NEAR the temperatures in a big electric motor or transformer, which also are often oil-cooled.

{Edit} It occurred to me that a few years ago, a company was formed that had bought some of the assets of that GE business when GE decided to exit it; and among them was that name. Haven't seen them around for quite some time but they might still be there. I bet if they are, they get real perplexed about why people not in their business always want to buy their product and always ask for that name, BY NAME; not by spec, compound, purpose, properties, color, consistency, or ANYTHING ELSE; just .... Glyptal. I wonder if they ever figured it out. Hmmmm.... I wonder if Google knows.

{Edit some more} L I B !!! THey're still there. And I guess they figured it out, because Eastwood is one of their distributors, meaning I WAS WRONG, you CAN still get "it". And they still have "professional" ones too, such as GEXPRO (an electrical eqpt distributor not related in any way to GE), and the heir/successor to the company I worked for back then as well. And even one in the UK. Or at least they did whenever that web page was published; now that I see it I remember it, and it hasn't changed a bit in a very long time.

 

Looks like the pinch area was taken down and there is some light bowl work just under the valve.

I have heard of Wild bill and seen him discussed on corvetteforum in the C1-3 tech section. You probably got a decent motor

 

Update time !
Got some pics of the crank casting number -

I think this is a 350 crank?

 

I tired to measure the valve lift as well today but our dial gauge is in mm (good old UK)
I must have done it wrong as the lift converted to gibberish.
Its all buttoned up now so i cant check it and will have to live without knowing !

 

The carb that came with the package is a 600cfm holley
Do you think this would be ok?

http://www.holley.com/0-80457S.asp

 

That's an lt-1 crank, seeing your casting number and the 010(1% tin) 020(2% nickel) yours could be an lt-1 block, do you have the suffix from the stamp pad???

 

Just got a SBC pilot bearing and it seems way to small for the end of the crank.
Can you get different sizes? - fits the gearbox fine but too small in the crank????

 

These are all the casting numbers i can find -

 

This is the crank with no bearing -


This is it with a bushing in - you can see its sitting off in the end - it slides in and out freely and just falls out

 

just got a micrometer and the bush measures od 1.060
I think i may have been given the wrong one !
Looked on Summit and they list about 1.094 which should be about there !
Panic over nothing because of wrong supply !!!!!
Off to the shop I go !

 

That pilot bushing in the 2nd pic is in there way too deep, should be flush with the crank. It should go in tight, not loose. Need to drive it in.

 

Yup, that's a cast stock 305/350 crank; the familiar 442.

You can verify cast vs forged by looking at the parting line: a narrrow "sharp" line = cast; a wide (over 1cm) one that's been ground down = forged

They make both sizes of motor using that casting, but the balance is different.

Here's what the pilot should approximately look like. This is a bearing rather than a bushing but the dimensions are basically identical.

 

Right so i have a 2pce crank new engine and have taken out a 1pce crank old engine.
So my flywheel will not work with the new 2pc engine.
So I'm f****d now.
Can put the old one back as it is shot and cant put the new one in as it wont work with the gearbox.

 

Found a conversion flywheel for sale !
Only a 4 hour drive each way tomorrow
Wish me luck !

 

Got all the way there and it was a 168T flywheel not a 153T

So back to the drawing board - have to wait for placed to open up in the new year

 

Found out that I have a Performer RPM inlet manifold !
Reason why is with a 3inch air filter the bonnet (hood) wont shut !!!!
Deep joy !!!!!!

 

Oops.
Common problem for all of us. In some cases a drop filter base will provide the clearence needed to close the hood. Depending on the carb, this may put the choke horn very close to the lid. That may or may not cause problems in itself.
For what it's worth, I have an RPM Air Gap intake, a Holley 4150 style carb, a drop filter base, 3" element and a K&N Xtreme filter top. Prior to that, with a standard Moroso metal lid, it would make the slightest contact. Just enough to scratch the anodizing of the lid but still allowed the hood to close. With the Xtreme lid, it was necessary to trim the metal frame that supports the hood sheet metal. Ultimately I made the move to a cowl hood.