Hello everyone ! Ok here is where I'm at , I just did a complete tpi swap, and added a cam (lt1 94) ok I have the timing set to 8 btdc and she has a good idle nice crisp rev but when I dump the clutch she goes and like cuts out but doesn't shut off ... When I let off throttle she purrs and drives great up till 3k ? I may be low on fuel?? Oh and she's speed density off a 92 5speed any ideas would be great thanks for taking a look

 

Did the "complete" swap include a fuel pump?

You changed the cam and put better exhaust on it. I don't see "computer tune" on the list.

 

Are you running a cat?
Mine did the same when the cat collapsed ; dead at 3K

 

No cats
Headers to y pipe .. It runs fine except under load

 

Ok just went outside and started her up.. When I revved the engine it revved but after 4k the volt meter dimmed ???? And shortly after starting it the 3k stalling started

 

Yeah I did the fuel pump 255
And it's not much bigger than the l98 cam I figured the stock tune would be fine . Speed density btw... And it came off a g92 Camaro

 

if in fact the charging system has issues voltage will effect injector pulse width. A stock $8d calibration will work fine with a lt1 cam untuned but does leave room for improvement. The sa and iac control for a automatic .bin is alot different for a manual .bin as well as injector constant and ve from a 305 to a 350 calibration unstated information on your post.

 

Well everything is off the 5 speed and my car was a stock 5speed tbi
It's always been a 305 ... What could be causing it ?? Maybe the icm??

 

Its hard to say over the net if you are having a lean condition( injectors) or a spark related issue. It could be the cap/rotor, retarded base timing , icm , crack between the magnetic poles, a problem with the white wire from the ecm to the icm for est control.

 

btw have you verified closed loop operation and are you using a 3 -4 wire heated o2 ?

 

Ok I'll take a video in a couple of mins to show you what it's doing , no heated o2 it's actually just plugged in and placed under the hood :/ I know I know .. My tbi ran great with out it ... Ill have a video up in a few

 

My timing is set to 8* btdc and it runs fine just stalls or drops volts

 

wow if your going to do keep it in open loop just throw the o2 in the garbage

 

Ok here is the vid with both symptoms maybe you can identify something

 

looks like a ignition cut out like a failing icm or ignition coil break up. The $8d programing does allow a rpm limiter to be set but if this is a stock memcal that wouldn't cause your isses. I would install a heated o2 your allways going to be running rich. A o2 sensor is not just one of those just for the hell of it extra parts they throw on the car.

 

Alright , it'll be about two weeks for the o2, but I have life time warranty on both the coil and the icm so those will be switched out today well not til tonight . I'll post up my progress tonight , and would one of those cAuse the volts to drop ?

 

That was really odd and may effect the injector pulse and voltage to the ignition system. You should double check all your battery connections at the starter as well and might have the alt tested.

 

Will do, although I just replaced my alt about a month ago, everything has been triple checked ? Could it be the alt pig tail ??

 

Oh and thanks again for all the help I love this site

 

I don't think its the pigtail, The sence wire goes to your cooling fan relay I would check that for corosion or a damaged connector. This is another way of wiring the cs just jumper the sense to the battery output.

 

I have the tpi harness but only used a single fan relay could the left over wire be grounding out ?? But it' is tucked away from anything

 

The speed density harness had the fan relay on the bulkhead next to the master cylinder. The alternator sence wire was spliced there.In the schematic its in the bottom right hand corner the brown wire.

 

Ok I didn't get a chance to swap out or have the parts checked out . But I just let the engine run for a while and when it got warm great idle and would rev up to 4500 and then bog but nothing like when it was cold ?? Icm maybe ?

 

at 4500 the tpi isn't breathing well and your not making much hp, that could be valve float. If its just a issue when the engine is warm it could be the icm effected bye heat. Not sure what to tell you you got a odd one.

 

I had the same issue when the car was cold, not warm. At first got new cap, rotor, wires, timing, etc.... took care of the bogging down at high RPM. But still had a lot of stumbling/popping on takeoff and then put an OEM ICM back into the engine and BOOM problem solved.

 

Ok I'll try the original icm in a. Few mins if that works which I hope it does you'll hear back good or bad thanks

 

Ok check it .... I brought up the connector to the alt earlier on and I didn't have the garage key so I couldn't try out the icm but I did mess with the alt connector .. I wiggled it popped it off and plugged it back in with my palm and the volt read normal revved fine no volt drop and I felt second gear spin the wheel clutch dump ... Wth!!!

 

Ok annnnnnd.... Stalling under load again ?? I'm going to swap in tpi icm be back on in a few mins

 

Ok I swapped the icm and got the same result but instead of 4k it was at 3k

 

Any suggestions ???? Thanks

 

Changed my tps and map .. No engine codes popping up just 12 and now she pops and holds idle at 4 k ??

 

if you changed out your TPS you need to make sure it is at the right voltage otherwise it will be throwing off your computer... there are plenty of articles on how to use a multimeter to check the voltage with the key in the on position, and by adjusting the sensor up or down you can adjust the voltage. You also want to make sure that the voltage fluctuation is smooth and uniform from about .59 to over 4 at WOT....

However it seems like you have a multitude of problems and maybe let someone who is an expert take a gander under the hood.

 

and any chance you're using the wrong computer/chip combo since you switched to a speed density?

 

The entire swap came off a 92 g92 car or 5speed 230 hp set up l98 cam and the 081 heads was running before the swap although I used a really old distributor that was a hand me down from a shop that worked ok with the tbi

 

Ok I ordered a new distributor , I'll let y'all k ow what happens

 

yes it did the alt plug was bad loose and what not swapped one in from my tbi harness..that was fixed, but the problem was still happening at 4k but this time just a popping ?? and when i did a cold start the motor did not want to start when it did had a real rough idle and wouldn't rev at all. probably because those parts sucked!after switching the tps and icm to the spare I had lying around just to see if they were any good and they weren't .. so I ordered another distributor because the reluctor looked really rusty and had a few cracks and what not would that create the issue ?? also my tach (aftermarket) has always had a small bounce and my motor always had a small miss?

thanks again ! hopefully i can be again!! if that solves the "ghost" in my car

 

Take a look at your ignition module, I had the same issue and after replacing it I fixed the problem.

 

I have had it tested twice And it passes ??
If this dist doesn't solve the problem .. I'm buying the fuel lines for my lt1 and it's swap time I really wanted to see what a good 305 can do but I've lost my Patients

 

Ok I drove the maro to the gas station to see if my gauge was working (aftermarket fuel) and it worked prior to the pump swap ok here is what happened .. Put 25 in the tank wouldn't move past 35k and as I was getting down the street the engine just stalled out I wasn't even touching the pedal !! After it stalled out she started up and ran kinda ok it was up hill slightly ?? And the temp had just reached 190 or so ?? Also I had the rpm needle bounce around .... What would happen if I placed the fuel pump in wrong ?

 

Ok guys I just received my dist. I will be installing it tonight I will keep y'all updated

 

Ok guys swapped in the new dizzy last night and .........the problem is still there

 

Ohm my injectors while hot and all were at 17.9 ??? Could it really be my fuel pressure ? Just replaced my pump with a 255 please help