Real world 350/383 TBI BUILD!
Real world 350/383 TBI BUILD!
This set up will be going into a 87 4x4 Silverado. It’s a very mild street/trail truck that is being restored. The old 350 that we pulled of the truck had seen better days and the previous owner had hacked apart the electrical and vacuum system. They also tried to rebuild the motor using RTV and I don’t think they had a clue what a torque wrench is. The goal here is to build a strong, solid, and reliable TBI SBC on a good budget.
Truck specs 200,000 miles, 33 inch MT tires, 3.73 gears, 700R4 transmission, regular cab, 350 TBI that needs some love.
The motor is now out of the truck and we are taking it to the machine shop in the morning. I have had work done at this shop before but they do not know a lot about the TBI systems so I am looking for a little more guidance and hope to get some good feedback from people that know.
Parts we have:
Edelbrock 3704 Performer T.B.I. Intake Manifold
Edelbrock#350-3702 Performer-Plus Camshaft Kit .398''/.442'' Lift 244°/264° Adv. Duration 112LSA
Edelbrock 60859 - Edelbrock Performer Aluminum Heads 60cc with 2.02intake and 1.60 exhaust
Holley 670 CFM Throttle body
Hypertech power charger (goes from the tb to the intake)
Long tube headers (will be switching to short tubes with a y pipe for the 02 sensor)
Adjustable Fuel pressure Regulator and gauge
Full rebuild of bottom end and possibly considering going to at 383. Trying to keep compression pump gas friendly so thinking 9.25 to 1.
Truck currently has long tube headers and true dual exhaust but only has one 02 sensor. I am considering going with short tubes and building a 3 inch y pipe so it can read correctly.
I also understand that the truck will need some tuning so I am considering TBI chips unless someone has other recommendations.
Any advice or guidance is welcome.
Truck specs 200,000 miles, 33 inch MT tires, 3.73 gears, 700R4 transmission, regular cab, 350 TBI that needs some love.
The motor is now out of the truck and we are taking it to the machine shop in the morning. I have had work done at this shop before but they do not know a lot about the TBI systems so I am looking for a little more guidance and hope to get some good feedback from people that know.
Parts we have:
Edelbrock 3704 Performer T.B.I. Intake Manifold
Edelbrock#350-3702 Performer-Plus Camshaft Kit .398''/.442'' Lift 244°/264° Adv. Duration 112LSA
Edelbrock 60859 - Edelbrock Performer Aluminum Heads 60cc with 2.02intake and 1.60 exhaust
Holley 670 CFM Throttle body
Hypertech power charger (goes from the tb to the intake)
Long tube headers (will be switching to short tubes with a y pipe for the 02 sensor)
Adjustable Fuel pressure Regulator and gauge
Full rebuild of bottom end and possibly considering going to at 383. Trying to keep compression pump gas friendly so thinking 9.25 to 1.
Truck currently has long tube headers and true dual exhaust but only has one 02 sensor. I am considering going with short tubes and building a 3 inch y pipe so it can read correctly.
I also understand that the truck will need some tuning so I am considering TBI chips unless someone has other recommendations.
Any advice or guidance is welcome.
Re: Real world 350/383 TBI BUILD!
Thanks for the reply. Why do you say the eddy manifold islame vs the Holley? I am assuming you are talking about the 2 inch bores since they are a little bigger then the eddy. I am planing on running the 670 holley TB on the unit and if i am not mistaken it has 2 inch bores as well.
Last edited by cbr600rx7; Feb 17, 2013 at 09:48 PM.
Re: Real world 350/383 TBI BUILD!
The holley tbi already has an adjustable regulator, there's a metal cap that has to be removed to adjust it.
You might want to get a fuel pump from a port injected car like a camaro w/ tpi, tbi pumps are marginal.
You might want to get a fuel pump from a port injected car like a camaro w/ tpi, tbi pumps are marginal.
Re: Real world 350/383 TBI BUILD!
I think you need to start from the core out with any build.
Have the block mag,decks checked,bore checked for roundness and then you can start making plans for a game plan and which is the best path for a matched parts build.
I think your getting way ahead of yourself based on no info on what your working with. Have guys built tons of SBC's that are 43 yrs old??. Sure have and some where throw away blocks too.
If you where to look at this way,your going to spend money on a 43 yr old block and still not have all the advantages of a truck L31 1996 to 2000 roller block from a donor vehicle which you could scrap to get back some of the money for the machine work on that. And there are tons of advantages with that from a more durable cam to better cam profiles and the list goes on and on.
It happens all the time.Guys build engines out of convenience because it is what they have on hand and truly in the end waste that money never capitalizing on the full potential for any application. And I mean for street or anything else that is being built.
For your application I think a 383 is almost a shoe in for the low end torque and to hail around the tire sizes as well as the wt of the truck.
But before you make any cam,induction,head,choices,you need to consider major decisions of the big picture matched parts build.From the crankshaft out and which parts to get and what machine work to do to set deck height,to decide what style of piston,to setting the SCR,to the rod length,to setting with the pin height with the piston choice to setting the squelch with a target of .040,to the compressed gasket thickness,to matching up the cam choice with the compression ratio.
This is way after all that is done,but keep in mind SBC's love a really good tuned exhaust.And the is even more so for the 383's. Guys all along have built and used twin O2 sensor systems and for sure they flow better than any single system. But like I said that well after all the rest is done so you can consider what exactly you need.
Now,it sounds like a matched parts/stacked parts build is expensive. But it isn't really if you do your research. Might cost you a tad more,but not much.
Because it is our busiest time of the yr with limited time available and in this brief outline I can't give you 50 yrs or so of building engines,but maybe I can get you started on the right path.
Hope it helps some....................
Have the block mag,decks checked,bore checked for roundness and then you can start making plans for a game plan and which is the best path for a matched parts build.
I think your getting way ahead of yourself based on no info on what your working with. Have guys built tons of SBC's that are 43 yrs old??. Sure have and some where throw away blocks too.
If you where to look at this way,your going to spend money on a 43 yr old block and still not have all the advantages of a truck L31 1996 to 2000 roller block from a donor vehicle which you could scrap to get back some of the money for the machine work on that. And there are tons of advantages with that from a more durable cam to better cam profiles and the list goes on and on.
It happens all the time.Guys build engines out of convenience because it is what they have on hand and truly in the end waste that money never capitalizing on the full potential for any application. And I mean for street or anything else that is being built.
For your application I think a 383 is almost a shoe in for the low end torque and to hail around the tire sizes as well as the wt of the truck.
But before you make any cam,induction,head,choices,you need to consider major decisions of the big picture matched parts build.From the crankshaft out and which parts to get and what machine work to do to set deck height,to decide what style of piston,to setting the SCR,to the rod length,to setting with the pin height with the piston choice to setting the squelch with a target of .040,to the compressed gasket thickness,to matching up the cam choice with the compression ratio.
This is way after all that is done,but keep in mind SBC's love a really good tuned exhaust.And the is even more so for the 383's. Guys all along have built and used twin O2 sensor systems and for sure they flow better than any single system. But like I said that well after all the rest is done so you can consider what exactly you need.
Now,it sounds like a matched parts/stacked parts build is expensive. But it isn't really if you do your research. Might cost you a tad more,but not much.
Because it is our busiest time of the yr with limited time available and in this brief outline I can't give you 50 yrs or so of building engines,but maybe I can get you started on the right path.
Hope it helps some....................
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post







