After the injector wires hook together on each side of the engine back bye the bulk head cut the pink/black wires run them each to a 3amp fuse. One the other side of the fuses hook them to ignition switched power if you can't seem to trace the wires to do the repair correctly. If you run the wires through the bulk head make sure they are insulated going through a existing gromemet or drill a hole and instal a new grommet.

 

Ok now i understood this lol i think. so i install a fuse inline where each injector bank is at then take a wire and go from the fuse to the ignition switched power whch is the ignition switch that we were talking about earlier rite the one on the steering column? Also what do i buy tommoro other then a fuse block to make this happen, i already have speaker wire thats like 8gauge or 16 gauge i forget which.

 

You may have some empty spots in your fused box that are accessory power that you could jumper to the ato fuse block. Soldering and shrink tubing the connections under the hood is a better method. 16 gauge txl would be the wire to use.

 

Wait why would i jump a empty fuse spot in my box to my fuse block? Also whats the ignition power accesory switch that connects after the inline, is it the ignition switch, or the igniton fuse spot in my fuse box that your talking about.

 

Unless you want a chance of a high parasitic draw you wouldn't want to feed them directly from a direct battery source.

 

I dont get it so what is the ignition power accesorry thing you were teling me to hook the wires up to

 

Hook it up to a location where you have power when you turn the key to the accessory position, the run position and the crank position but now power. When the key is turned off.

 

LOL thats what the ignition fuse slot does. Also its basicaly just a remote wire like what youd have on your stereo, so can i buy the fuse block at a store like autozone napa o'rielys or something?

 

Yup

 

Oh ok im going to get one tommoro

 

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...ord=fuse+block would anything like this work fine? Also will a inline fuse holder work because i have one already if so?

 

??? So before i go get a few will something like the inline fuse holder in the link work fine? Oh and will 4 of these be enough

 

See this where it says INJ1 and INJ2 ? Y would u need 4?

 

I thought tuned p said that i should do 2 threeamp fuses for half the injectors, then two 3amp fuses for the other half rite? Im sorry but i just woke up but also how do i connect the 1 or 2 in line fuses to the 4 injectors that need power then the other 4? By running wire from inj 1,3,5,7 then to the fuse or how would it work

 

Oh i see now lol so i just connect one side of fuse to the 12olt remote spot, then i run wires from the other side of fuse and branch off to each injectors power wire rite?

 

You have it right but the power going to your new fuse box will be just when you turn the key on and during crank and run. Like a car stereo you don't want it on when your not around it will drain down your battery.

 

Alright im going to go get the fuse holder here in awhile. I guess i need to get 2 litte 3 amp fuses aswell since i have almost all but that size lol

 

Oh last question real quick. So what order are the injectors in if 1,3,5,7 need to go to 1 fuse? Are they basicaly on the driver side and the 2,4,6,8 are on the other side? And pink/black wire is injectors power wire you said rite?

 

??? ^^ I just need to know before i hook it all up

 

Yes the pink and black is the power wire on each side they all tie together into 1 wire in the harness just after the intake on the rear. It doesn't matter what side goes to witch fuse.

 

SEARCH
firing order of a SBC

 

the injectors are batch

 

Alright and im going to have to use like a 10amp fuse since they didnt have any 3amp ones, but it shouldnt matter rite?

 

It will work just takes more amperage to blow

 

That will tell him where the cyls numbers are and most important, how to look for info without someone holding his hand.

 

I confuse easily lol

 

Ok so the driver sde injectors wires are solid green, and orange with black stripe s is the one with stripe power? The pass side has pink/blk wire though.

Also the injectors power wires dont go into one wire they all 4 split from a 1inch wire loom near firwall to a big 3inch loom then go into the firewall with about 70wires, so im goin to have to splice them all together somehow then run 1 wire to the fuse will that be fine?

 

Firing order? for what

 

So will that be fine ^^ and the orange and blk wire is the power one rite?

 

Orange/ black should be the other power just double check your ecm pin d15 should be the light blue and d16 light green.

 

I got half done and its lighting the test light now, yay. I just have to do the other side now, lol im getting a headache from bitting off all these wire ends but im so close so ill let yall know here soon, or in an hour if it works, lol

 

normally when someone does a conversion with the factory harness, they keep the FI fuse box.
usually its near the ECM & it looks like this,

 

Ok so its still not running it will start and run for a few secnds like 4-5 then it dies like before, and it only does it with gas or starting fluid threw tb. So The injrctor plugs are getting power though now, on both sides of the plug it lightes up. So i dont get it why wont it work

 

did you ever check the 3 power wires going to the ecm ?b1,c16, a6 with the key on.

 

I jst tried to check them and the probe wont fit in the plug holes, but what could i check over since it should be running rite? And i mean other then those three ports since they arent checkable with my probe

 

Use a small paperclip as a jumper to backprobe your ECM.

 

Ok so basicaly its still a fuel issue rite, because it starts with gas dwn throttle body only, but culd the starter not be spinnign fast enough and the starter be bad,or what are the possibilities.

 

Alright ill go do it when i knw a few more things to check.

 

what about the tps

 

??? Im getting pretty frustrated with this POS and am about to buy some c4 and blow this thing up. Could the tps sensor be bad and the ecm think its it wot mode and clear the injectors

 

C4 is a good body style of vette

 

Ya know, a lot of things could be wrong with this project.

If you would test the things we tell you to and how we tell you to, instead of jumping around all the time you would be driving this thing by now.

 

Lol not the c4 vette the c4 that goes kaboom! lol so what do you want me to test next just give me a list or something id like to know a few things that it could be and how to test them, and trust me i have been waiting over a month to drive it and im pretty close to getting it running, i think

 

Di you get power with the key on to the ecm pins I posted to check

 

Alright i just checked the port b, and c on the throttle positioning sensor, and i had my meter on ohms, then tried volts and i got no readings both times, so is it bad, or did i not check it rite. The key was on also and i grounded the black probe good.

 

Also i just tried checking with a small nail since i have no paper clips, but the probe on test lite was still smaller and not small enough, so ill have to get some paper clips, or find some sodering wire to check the 3 ports

 

Ohms is a measure of resistance you would need to check with the key on the blue wire of the tps. It would be .54v if it goes to 4 or higher the ecm will go into clean flood mode and stop injector pulse.

 

Alright i just checked those 3 ports in ecm harness and the test light didnt light for any of them, and i scraped back some wire on all three then touched the bare wire with test light, and it didnt light, with ignition on.
Also i tested the injectors with my meter and it read 12.50volts, and my test light still works aswell.

 

There's your problem

 

I know thats exactly what i did, port b is the one your supposed to check and i checked all 3 and got nothing so im clueless as why it didnt show anything.