eblove911

I recently bought a 1990 camaro rs with a 305 tbi 5.0 motor in it. I repaired it when the guy ( a friend of my brother in law) first bought it. It's a small town in Arkansas where they just paint and priss up their cars and race them. Well he sold me the car for $370 bc a tapping noise. Brother in law vouched it was maybe the tensioner so I bought it. After it was delivered I went to see my new purchase. Started the car and loud knock like a rod to me. So I bought a O'reilly's standard crankshaft kit. I removed the starter, the exhaust y pipe, distributer cap, water pump, timing cover and chain, then I lifted the motor using a floor jack on the blanacer to drop the oil pan, after removing the oil pan I noticed that the front two main bearings looked spun... so now I need to figure out how to remove the connecting rods and other two main bearing caps. I can't take crank gear off so maybe I will replace it? The car is on ramps,ready to b finished, I know a hoist would've been easier to remove the motor however I don't have any of that. not a engine stand, picker, none of that. it's possible to do this job I just need help to figure out how to remove the crank and caps and connecting rod caps, and to install the new one. Also the cylinder walls aren't scored or anything. This is my first time doing this. Please I need help.

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

You are doing this really wrong but to entertain you I will help you. Go ahead and remove your transmission, the whole thing. Your crankshaft bolts to your flexplate/clutch and will not drop without unbolting that as well. So remove your transmission so you can unbolt your flexplate/clutch. Remove your front pulley and harmonic balancer. Remove your timing cover and remove your timing chain. The timing gear can remain pressed on. Remove your intake manifold. Remove your cylinder heads. Unbolt your connecting rods at the crank and push them out with the pistons out the top of your motor. Now with some magic, raise the motor high enough that you can safely remove the main caps and support the 70 pound crankshaft from falling and crushing your skull. It will be tough to wiggle out that crank between the motor and your K-member. Careful not to scratch the journals. Replace main bearings. Installation is reverse of removal.

basiccamaro

You do know that all of that ground up bearing material and burned away crank metal is circulated all through the engine and in all of the very small and lengthy passages like behind the cam bearings, just waiting to contaminate new oil and tear everything back up again. Don't you?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

It's SUPER EEEEEZY to change the crank with the engine in the car.

All you gotta do, is take the motor out of the car first.

AutoRoc

iTrader: (1)

I'd flip the car upside down or at least on its side as far as possible...


http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k4...AutoRepair.jpg

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

If I could 'like' this or +1 I would.

kentuckyKITT

iTrader: (4)

Call around to some rental places. I know of 5 near me that rent engine hoists. You can buy an engine stand for about 70-80 at the auto parts stores. They are not made very well, but will hold a 305, or you can get your local welding shop to weld it right (like I did), but it will hold a 305 with heads and intake on it regardless. Get the engine out of the car, but put the oil pan back on it first. You are never going to accomplish the task of changing the crank with the engine in there and have satisfying results. Honestly, that whole block will have to be gone through with the kind of damage you suspect has happened. You are better off getting another running 305 and dropping it in. I wouldn't waste ANY money building or rebuilding a 305. You could probably score one running in great condition for 300 or less. I have two myself and one is a vortec motor both sitting on stands.

Brando5641

iTrader: (-1)

ksith

can i just chime in here. get a 350 they can be found just as cheap in running condition as a 305. it'll bolt right in without any mods and you will get more bang for your buck then a 305. since you will have to pull the engine to remove the crank and take the block in to get cleaned out. mine as well go the 350 route.

G92Bill

Just do a 350 swap.

G92Bill

I agree with the above^^

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

There's no way this is going to end well. Good luck.

ksith

it can end well. if he does it right

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

You're not going to be able to properly clean the block and address the damage on the mains by leaving it bolted to the car. If he spun main bearings that thing needs to be align honed at least, if not complete scrapping.

jas2730

iTrader: (7)

And now you've been Introduced to the members of TGO. Lmao!

zraffz

In all seriousness with the addition of everything else mentioned how do you plan on measuring any tolerances with the motor in the car? It seems like a horrible idea to even attempt. Even to change an oil pan it's usually easier to pull it out.

Rob's 92 gta

I wouldn't try to do it in the car like everyone said you can't clean the oil passages that could have metal in them. If you spun a bearing you may need to get the rods resized and the block line honed to make sure everthing is ok. I would hate to see someone lose the money they have spent on the parts. Try to rent what you need or find a running motor.

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

I pulled my motor today in 2 hours with a hoist. Just go buy a damn hoist or rent/borrow one!

novaderrik

yeah, pull the motor... it's the only way to do it...
then you might as well just get a different motor to put back in, because just slapping a crank kit in it is one hell of a crap shoot.. how are you going to measure the main and rod bores to make sure they are still round and in spec? how are you going to clean all the metal out of all the oil passages in the block and heads?

zraffz

An engine hoist is not expensive. Shipping usually kills the deal from buying anything online. I recently picked up one from a mason block yard (the old style ones that are heavy duty and reach into any engine bay) for $80. It needed paint and a hoist. $49 later for a 8 ton hoist from Jegs, a can of Rustoleum and a few hours of my time disassembling/grinding/painting/assembling I had a new engine hoist.

For the price of freight shipping alone I got a new engine stand that is better than 99% of the ones you can buy. Look around, their are deals everywhere.

eblove911

I went to the city auction and they had a hoist amd a 2 ton jack I got both for $40 pulled the motor in no time...I bought the crank kit ut after getting motor out decided to put a 350 in found one on craigslist out of a 89' truck but originally came from a camaro for $450 delivered with free headers. casting #10054727??? so I want to build it to 400hp tbi based off a build i saw chump change challenge in a magazine. budget $1500 i have another thread any input would be great as for pulling motor in the engine bay follow up....its attached to flywheel and a bracket under to hold rear seal u have to pull it I was just too stubborn but I wanted to follow up and update everyone. Dont try in the car crank removal lol

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Keep in mind those magazine numbers are gross horsepower numbers without accessories. That's how you make everything look impressive in the articles. These motors dont turn their own water pumps, alternators, power steering pumps, have ridiculous headers, dont have to worry about hood clearance when choosing intake manifolds, and are measured at the flywheel.

This is VERY different from the factory method of rating horsepower, which is through stock exhaust, with all accessories, at the flywheel.

400hp in a magazine is more like 300 in the real world.

Just focus on getting decent parts that work well together. Im not so sold on the TBI, but if that's what you got, you should at least try to make it work. Good luck to you.