where do i find one? mine has stopped working and im currently driving around with my gas cap off so my car doesnt vapor lock on me. the gm part# 10033125 has been discontinued and i cant find a new replacement. however i keep coming accross the univerisal one from the part stores, will that one work?

 

i have not been able to find one....... so I bought a New Brake booster check valve, and took foam off a foam type paint brush with a zip tie to make a makeshift filter. WORKS Great. oh yea, the Valve should allow Air into the tank not out. and the 5/16 nipple for the booster fits that 5/16's line to the gas tank vent line PERFECT and of course the 5/8 end is the breather end to wrap with foam and a zip-tie or whatever you want.

 

hmm theres an idea

 

Yea, well i got sick of smelling gas. and everywhere i went, Nothing..... nothing.... nothing..... so i got creative lol cost less than 10 bucks, and im willing to bet its going to save 50X's that in Gas from evaporating and venting.

 

10245442

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results...umber=10245442

http://www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts/gm...-10245442.html

http://www.oehq.com/oeparts_GMP10245442.htm

 

A few months ago, I tried to order the tank vent from at least 2 of those venders. A few days later they both emailed me that the part was no longer available and they returned my money. I tried a couple of other GM parts sites that are not listed above, same thing. If anyone finds a vender who actually has it in stock, be sure to post it because at least a couple of us are looking for one.

 

yup i checked those places. And Talked to a few Chevy dealers and they told me those are no longer available and good luck, Find a Salvage yard for a used one. so.... i made one.

 

I just went through this on my 92... I have taken them apart to make sure I understood what was up... The valve is actually a two way valve, concentric valves... It vents with a small inner valve to allow air into the tank while the engine is running and drawing fuel.. If the car is not running, it has a larger outer valve that allows the tank to vent if it over pressurizes like on a hot day.. The small valve has a weak spring and the large valve has a heavier spring.. I would be cautious about replacing it with a one way valve due to the potential for gas tank pressure build up... I got one out of a wrecking yard being careful to remove it without breaking the mounting ears. I have thoroughly cleaned it with soap and water to get the gunk out and by blowing or drawing a light vacuum on the valve I can tell it is working as it should.. You might be able to clean yours instead of replacing it.... I found the valve on thirdgens that I checked from 87 to 92... I also found similar valve on 4th gens 93 to 95... Not sure if the 4th gen has the same spring rates but you could probably verify that with a brake bleeder vacuum pump and light air pressure... I have spent countless hours trying to find a new valve.. A replacement does not exist.. Next best option after the bone yard is to go to a racing parts site.. They have similar valves for race cars....

I had the same problem, heavy gas smell when the tank is full... I thought the same thing that it was this vent valve... When I pulled the valve out, it was not leaking.. However, now for the fun part, I am replacing my fuel pump while the differential is out and pulled the gas tank this weekend.. After complaining for many years that my car was supposed to be recalled for fuel filler neck cracks and being told by at least 5 Chevrolet dealers that there was no recall on my VIN number, I found that in fact it has been leaking at the filler neck for a lot of years.. That has been where my gas smell has been coming from as I originally thought... You can't necessarily see the leak if you crawl under the car because it will run down the tank and drip on the upper side of the exhaust heat shield.. The top side of my heat shield was coated with gunk from years of leaking..

So, I have two options... Have the tank neck welded or replace the tank.. Researching that now...

 

The necks are silver soldered like the old radiators used to be.
You can do it at home with a fuel free tank.
Drain fuel and fill with water then use a little propane torch, flux and solder to fix the joint.
Psi test it if you want to before you drain water.
Let it all dry out then reinstall it all.

 

When I had my stock tank I ordered one for a 4th gen. It still had some other issue as it would build up pressure.

 

Got to thinking about the original post here that the car is vapor locking. That could mean that the small valve is plugged up with dirt and gunk so not opening.. Maybe a good cleaning would be all you need to do.. A suggestion would be to do what I did with the replacement and wash it out thoroughly with Dawn soap and water.. Once you clean it, use the brake bleeder hand pump to draw a vacuum on the tube where the tank hose fits on it...

In my one day tour of pull a part yards, I came up with three valves that needed cleaning but appear to be ok when checking the bi-directional valve operation... The trick to getting them out without breaking the mounting ears is to use pliers to squeeze the ears together and working them back and forth as you push them up out of the bracket.. I think (but haven't dried), using a 12 point socket to push up over the ears.. Make it small enough to push the ears in and the valve should slide out of the socket and bracket without breaking the ears off...

Thanks for the input on the gas tank... I started a separate thread on sources of new tanks so as to not hijack this thread on the vent valve... Just wanted to point out here that the gas smell may very well not be the vent valve..

 

ya i dropped my tank this weekend to figure out why my gas guage doesnt work, turns out this isnt the right tank for the car, it fits and works fine but appears to be 12 or 14 gallon tank and blah blah blah.

but ya i have to leave my gas cap off bc when its warm out the car starts off and when i take the cap off pressure rushes out and it runs perfectly again.

will deffently try the cleaning trick, hope that works. thinking about it it would make sense its clogged, seeing as how its the oringal 1992 valve. thanks for the tip, will try int he next few days, but currently waiting on a sending unit but ill post results.

 

So the gas vapor in the tank is suppose to flow away from the tank to the canister? When you blow on the line it blows one way and not the other so right now I have mine allowing the air to go into the canistor. Is this correct, sorry the lady at autozone replaced my hoses on it and I forgot which way it went.

 

My post was addressing the hose that runs to the valve on the brake hose bracket. I don't know about the other lines so maybe someone else can jump in on your question about the canister.

 

ya this is about the valve on the tank itself, but that's a good question none the less.

also I haven't tested it but I got the valve looking like new, when I blow/suck tho the steam its easy so im hoping it works.

 

I am going to theorize here but when I suck on mine it opens really easy.. I think that is because it doesn't want to inhibit the fuel pump draw by not venting the tank fast enough to let air in.. When I blow on mine it is fairly hard and then suddenly pops open and then back close.. Blowing out is venting the pressure build up.. Just a guess but it might be set to high pressure so that at low pressure the tank pushes vapors back to the canister.. If pressure gets more than the canister can handle then this valve pops open like a safety valve.. All guess work here on this...

 

Where is this valve located. My tank will build up pressure real bad.

 

Don't know if that is your problem but the valve I have been talking about is underneath the car, mounted to the body, driver's side, in front of the rear diffential axle tube, mounted to the same bracket that the flexible brake line is mounted to.. Follow the brake line forward from the center of the differential (where it T's for the rear wheels) and that brake line will lead you right to it. The vent pipe comes from the top of the tank with all the other lines, connects to about an 8 inch hose that then attacheds to one end of the valve.. The valve is snapped into the brake bracket and is about an inch and half in diameter.. It is open on the bottom...

 

Ok thanks.
By the other posts. I could not get if there is two different valves. Two in one unit or what.
Thanks for the reply.
I don't usually smell fuel. Just I notice when I take the fuel cap off on mine it has a lot of pressure that is in the tank.

 

ok got it that was a dumb ? relized today it says CAN on the vave and tank on the other

 

THANK YOU! This is awesome. I am actually going to replace the vent valve on a non-thirdgen car. I've had to replace this part now on 3 cars. Nice to know there is a very common and very available part that can be used.

 

im also having issues with my tank building pressure, 1988 Camaro its now a 355 with quick fuel 680 carb and I notice the vent on axle is gone and the return and vent line are connected together, I just put the carb on im running a typical sbc mechanical fuel pump . the problem is I start driving and it will start bogging and floods out . I pull the air cleaner and float level is maxed on carb re set it and drive it for awhile and it starts doing it again the the level and itsmaxed on the carb again. last time I lowered the float to bottom of sight supper low and by time I got home I was smelling fuel and it was back up . and whenit flood it dumps fuel on the intake, I called jegs and quick fuel and they said its not the carb its something else like too much fuel pressure can anyone conferm this problem, also when it has done it when got it back to garage the fuel tank is bubbling or gurgerling sound loudly that when I found the lines tied together