okay i got them to set right. With my old sensor its 2.44 let me try with the new one thats in

 

That would be about 86f, looks like you found the issue with the bad connection than.

 

that was probably my problem im at 2.1 now..

 

i disconnected my battery ill plug it all back in and reconnect my battery and well see if the plug sits right and if any codes come up ill let you know.

 

okay I got everything while fixing it I disconnected my battery to clear the codes now my codes are clear I'm gonna fire it up

 

okay no codes came up. I let the car idle for 15 minutes and drove it for 20. No codes! But... My idle seems like it wants to come down. I WA origionally at 1300 and now its at about 1100 in park and 800 in drive. But the idle is still surging in drive. When I come to a stop it surges from 600 to 1000 and when just coasting slowly no pedal the car surges faster then slower. Could this be transmission? This was one of my original problems..

 

or could my tps be off? How do I properly set that?

 

Sounds like a lean condition vacuum leak or injectors. if the are the oem Multecs toss them.

 

the previous owner replaced 3 injectors not sure the brand. I've checked for vacuum leaks with carb choke cleaner no response. Injectors are so expensive..

 

is there more I should do to look for a vacuum leak? Or any way I could know if my injectors are bad? A set of injectors could run from 400-1000 dollars...

 

looking through my paperwork the injectors are multiport injectors

 

Your tps should be non adjustable. If someone put a 85-89 tpi tps on it you will have elongated slots. The blue wire on the tps koeo will be .66-.76 vdc. Ohm your injectors when the car is warm they should've be 16- 16.5 ohms running issues usually occur at 12.
The multec injectors have a grey body on top and a shiney metal bottom.

http://m.southbayfuelinjectors.com/p...502&group=1497
Use the promo code Tuned for a 10% discount.

 

You states you have a scanner nows the time to get fimiluar with it

 

my scanner will tell me what my injectors are doing? I'm not sure of that. Yeah those color injectors are in there.. But three of them are the multiport black ones.. Should I buy the other 5? Or should I buy all 8? What lb?

 

I have not used the scanner you have but you can watch the o2 mv and maybe injector pulse, cts, map kpa. Atleast I thought in the first post you said you bought a scanner.
You would need 22#hr injectors and yes do all eight .

 

does the southbay link you have for 167$ come with all 8 injectors?

 

yup

 

that's a deal have you used or known someone who uses them? Are they good? Will they last long? How sure are you that these will fix my problem? If they dint fix it will they still increase my performance? Sorry for all the questions just stuff I like to know

 

Questions answered

 

could you give me the instructions of how to ohm them and what they should be? Your being very helpful in so thankful your helping me.. My car has made alot of progress

 

do it when your engine is at operating temperature.

 

my whole drivers side set with the new ones is 17.. One on the passenger side is 17 .. And the other 3 are at 09... Do I need new injectors? I'm guessing so

 

yes if there at 9 ohms there junk . Replace them all

 

would that cause my problem? High idle and surging when braking and coasting? And running rich?

 

Buying a fsm would be a wise investment. The low ohms indicate the coils are shorted together. If a single injector is dripping while another is partially clogged injector pull them and have the flow tested if you want to know. Or do a fuel pressure drop with a fuel injector tester.

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-3398-Injec.../dp/B0002SR5OO

 

I already bought the new injectors should I still buy the fsm?

 

the fsm is just to test my current ones if I buy the new injectors then I shouldn't need it correct?

 

FSM = Field Service Manual printed by Helm for General Motors .

 

oh I thought it was that fuel injector tester sorry
i meant that.. I don't need that do i?

 

no you don't need it but its a good thing to have for technical information

 

well ill let you know how the new injectors go

 

the injectors I bought the ones you linked me, they are way different injectors.... Just making sure they will fit right. They are much skinnier and they don't have a slot to hold the retaining clip... My paperwork says direct fit for my motor but I'm just making sure...

 

They may be different in color you might pm user southbay08 to confirm they are 22#hr. The Bosch 3 injectors will not use the retaining clips. Make sure you lube up the o-rings with dish soap and bottom them out in the manifold first. Also look closely at the runner gaskets with the elongated slots next to the runner ports to make sure you install them on the right sides of the intake. Otherwise you will end up with a vacuum leak.

 

I currently have a high idle due to a misfire on one of the sparks - (to be dealt with later this week) I also have an air hose that likes to pop off now and again causing an extra 10k yikes! noticed that problem immediately. but yeah lean in (NOT TOO CLOSE) and listen for any clicking near the engine block. if its a misfire you'll hear a click and the engine skip a bit on beat with the clicks. you already replaced the valves and hoses try the sparks too its cheap should be done now and again anyway and it might help.

 

plugs already changed. one of the injectors was spraying out fuel bad when I turn the key on. Guess it didn't sit in the fuel rail right. Fixing it today

 

If not already said, be sure to replace all injector o-rings, not just the ones that look bad. Lube the o-rings with vasoline before inserting the injector into the rail and manifold. Be sure that injector bungs and the area around them is clean of any dirt before installing the injectors.

I assemble the injectors to the rails first and install the locks to keep the injectors in place. Then, I assemble the rail assembly to the manifold as a unit, carefully aligning the injectors with the bungs. Using gentle pressure, I press the injectors into the bungs while watching carefully that all injectors are going in properly. Using vasoline or seal glide on the o-rings, I haven't had a leaky injector in several years.

 

got them in but then I got the code 23 again so I'm getting that clip set right again. I also had an antifreeze leak and I'm working on getting that straight. Drives alot better hasn't surged yet. But my speedometer stopped working... All my other gauges work..

 

only thing wrong now is my speedometer doesn't work...

 

didn't you have a scanner you could hook up to see if the ecm is seeing a vehicle speed from the vss ?

 

I dont think my scanner does all these things your saying it might it just reads the engine light

 

aside from the speedometer... Before whenever I was at a red light for awhile or my car was not moving but running, it would get really hot until I drove and the air hit the radiator. I just flushed my radiator with radiator flush and refilled it and its doing it again.. I think my fan is turning on too late the fan turns on around 250 degrees... And I'm more worried about the speedometer could you give me some steps to getting it fixed?

 

If you're judging temp by the gauge alone, this can be misleading since the gauage may be way off. An actual scan tool that reads codes and data will let you see what temp is according to the ECM. This way you can determine whether the ECM controlled primary fan is operating correctly or just the high temp fan is working. The primary fan comes on at 219f when the ECM activates the relay. The high temp fan comes on at 240 just to prevent overheating. A code reader is just a code reader and is kind of a waste of money since you can read codes on that car with a paper clip. Look for any decent early scan tool, like the Snap On MT2500(brick). These are great on the third gen F-body and are available used for about $200. Or just download winaldl for free from the internet and follow their instructions to build the adapter cable.

 

well where is the relay for the primary fan ill check it before I buy anything else.. That's most likely the problem right?

 

so here's the deal. With the ac on... Keeping in mind my AC isn't charged so it surges... The fan on the passenger side when engine is at about 200 will turn on intermittently. When the engine gets to about 230 the drivers die fan begins to turn and the engine cools down a bit. I think I'm going to get the hypertech 200-180 cooling switch.. What are your thoughts? I have a feeling that switch is most likely bad because it cant be the relay because it turns on.

 

The switch is just a backup if the engine gets to hot the secondary fan will kick on. The primary fan is controlled bye the ecm to kick on at 226f and the parameter can be lowered. The secondary fan will kick on with ac request on the secondary fan switch.

 

oh well my engine getting to 230 seems way too hot! What should I do to get that down it scares me..

 

and just to clarify the primary fan is the drivers side correct?

 

so what's happening to me is stock... I'm thinking about buying a 215-225 temp sender and a 180 stat.

 

You need to put on an aftermarket temp gauge considering how innaccurate the stock guage is. From there decide how bad the problem actually is. Then start buying parts and making changes. These engines best operating temperature is 180-195 not any lower not any higher.

 

okay ill hook one up and tell you what that is then plug the stock one back in.