hey I plugged in the v6 memcal, and just so I mention this I am disconnecting the battery every time I play with the ecm... And I still get alot of codes and the light doesn't blink.. Probably should have mentioned this before.. But when I turn the key on, the SES light does flash inc. It flashes once everytime I turn on the key and also when I jump 6 and 12. Dont know if that makes a difference.. Guessing the new memcal won't help? I guess I'll send it back when its in..

 

ment to say the light does flash once

 

Do you mean you jumpered A and B on the aldl ?

 

yeah the light blinks once every time I turn the key on jumpered or not.

 

The light will come on when you turn the key to the run position. Then jumper a to b on the aldl and you should just see code 12 , three times and it might be followed bye 46 but that depends on what the v6 memcal was from.

 

yeah I take a piece of wire stripped on both ends and jump them and with both memcals the light blinks only one time then no more. And I just turn the key on I dont start the car

 

are a and b one on top of the other or ome right beside the other I think I did it wrong I did it one on top of the other.

 

A and b or on your right side as your sitting in the drivers seat top row the last 2.

 

okay I will try it when I'm home after this
weekend

 

okay I'm home and what's in now is the new ecm and my old memcal. The code 12 blinks constantly. Nothing else but code 12 over and over again. Does this mean I'm cured if my ecm problems? Can I send my new memcal back?

 

The test now is with the new ecm and the aujp or anjf memcal and it just will blink code 12 three times ?

 

the test now is the new ecm and my old aujp memcal that was origionally in my old computer. The code 12 blinks nonstop it doesn't stop blinking code 12.

 

But the code 12 is just in diagnostic mode ?

 

just when I jump the A and B things and turn the key on without the engine running. It blinks code 12 constant.

 

That's they way it should be. I'm not sure if your scanner just shows codes or codes and data but sounds like the issue is resolved. Is the car still idleing high and rich ?

 

ill drive it for a few days and let you know

 

I let the car idle for about 15 minutes and just got a code 23 which I looked up. Its low temp. At manifold air temperature sensor or tps but I replaced both of those parts...

 

okay drove my car today about 15 minutes and then another 15 minutes a couple hours later. On my first drive the car got a little hot. Keep on mind my idle is still high. The surging stopped for the most part though. I have two codes now. 23 which I stated above.and 45 which is o2 sensor rich I replaced all the parts that are stated in my codes. Only thing I can think of is that when I replaced the tps is didn't set it right. Or when I plugged my wires in the manifold air temp sensor they are in the wrong sides maybe I should flip them? Let me know

 

http://chevythunder.com/mat_code_23.htm

If he leads of the mat were flipped kinda hard when there keyed it would not matter its just a thermistor . the mat low reading can cause the rich condition.

 

I dont have a voltage checker...is there anything else I could try?

 

Buy a vom there dirt cheap

 

could you give me a link to a good one? On eBay? Or is that something I could buy at advance

 

I have a fluke but just for basic testing a cheap vom will work fine. I think harbor freight is even still giving them away until tomorrow. I went there last week to get some glass media and the lady tossed one in my bag.

 

oh harbor freight is out of the way what about advance or napa

 

Just go get a cheap digital one . Looks like I was wrong on the date not sure why the lady tossed one in my bag but oh we'll lol. I like my fluke 78 but doesn't sound like you need all the bells and whistles.

http://widgets.harborfreight.com/wsw...1002&hftref=cj

 

I bought an actron multimeter what setting do I put it on?

 

One comment I will make is that I have had issues before on newer systems using a DVOM with too low input impedance. If the input impedance of the meter is too low, you will not get an accurate reading and it can even affect system operation if it brings signal voltage down when connected.

At GM, and Tuned Performance knows this, we were cautioned to use a DVOM with no less than 10Megaohms per volt input impedance. As far as I know, only better units comply with this specification, such as the Flukes.

At Chrysler, I even had issues with my 10M ohm/volt lab scope causing interference and phony readings on portions of the newer Chrysler systems. Be sure to read the specs on the Actron meter you bought and be sure that it is 10Megaohms per volt. Otherwise it may not be compatible with EFI systems.

 

the diagram of what to check test is kinda confusing me do I check the plug for the sensor first then if its too low where do I test?

 

Good point doc, see how much I forgot lol . The trouble tree is referring to the 5 volt reference coming from the ecm pin f16. With the key on and the mat unplugged at the harness the tan wire should have real close to 5v.

 

Unplugging the mat pigtail first with the key on check the tan wire for voltage ground you vol negative lead directly to the battery. If its close to 5v take you negative lead of your vom and hook it to the mat black wire lead the voltage should read the same as before.

 

mine is the actron cp7672 it was 20$ and does 200 mV - 1000V DC voltage
2 V 750 V AC voltage
200ua-200mA, 10A DC Current
200-2000K resistance

 

will this scanner work? And if so what should I set the dial to?

 

ill get started with the test as soon as I find out I'm home

 

I figured it out so with the red lead plugged into the tan wire and the negative terminal its about 4.9.with the tan and the black wire both probed its 4.9.what do I test now? Only thing I can see wrong is that maybe the terminals weren't touching the sensor all the way. I had to stick the red probe into the plug pretty deep.

 

Now turn the meter to ohm setting and check the resistance on the mat pigtail leads.

 

I think ohm setting is the setting with the little horseshoe.. Well it just stays at one and doesn't change when I probe them (red with tan black with black)

 

Put the meter to Ω 20k setting

4. RESISTANCE MEASUREMENT
a. SettheSELECTORswitchtotherequiredresistanceW(ohms)position.
b. PlugtheBLACKtestleadintotheCOMinputjackonthemultitester.
c. Plug the RED test lead into the VWmA input jack on the multitester.
d. Connectthetestleadstothecircuitundertest.

 

well I'm doing that and when the probes are on them it stays at 1. But when I take the probes off, it flashes between 14-20 for a quick second.

 

and if i do the black on the tan and red on black it reads -11.8

 

I know it seems like I'm doing something wrong but this is really what's happening...it will read the volts but not resistance..

 

Try a lower scale

 

oh I was doing it in the wrong end

 

 

i dont see how that gives you a reading theres no current going to it.. Im not getting a reading doing what your diagram shows...

 

I was origionally doing the tests in the plug that goes into the sensor... There is no reading the way your picture is for me... Unless my plug isn't touching the sensor all the way which might be the problem.

 

You will get a resistance reading across the thermal resister. The malfunction 23 code indicates high resistance in the mat circuit. Unless there is a break in one of the pigtail wires or connection issue at the mat or the mat is bad.

 

the mat is the gold sensor under the intake plenum right? Or is that the coolant temp sensor?

 

The mat us under the plenum same part number for both sensors. 213-4396 acdelco

 

it must be when my wires fell out if the clip it never set right because i get the reading when i touch them straight to the sensor... Ill have to buy that new wire cluster with the two clips on them.

 

The Packard mat terminals are listed as the pull to seat connecters.

http://www.corsa-technic.com/categor...category_id=81