Obviously, the passenger side fan is the primary fan. It sounds like your fans are operating like they should. Except that above 220, the primary fan should run constantly. When the high temp fan comes on, the primary fan should also be on. If not, you may need a fan relay or wiring repair between the power supply, the relay, and the fan. If the primary fan is working correctly and the motor is still getting hot, you need to check for debris built up between the radiator and AC condenser. You may also have a faulty thermostat, or a restricted radiator. Radiator flush rarely cures a plugged up radiator. You can pinpoint the problem by testing with an infared thermometer.

In my opinion, a cooler T-stat on these cars is always a good idea. The high stock operating temp is designed to reduce hydrocarbon emissions. My system is tuned to run a 160 T-stat and my dual fans both come on at 175. Heat, anywhere but in the combustion chamber, is the enemy. Unfortunately on a stock tune, you can't really go below 180 on the T stat or you'll create runnability problems.

In my profession, replacing parts without first verifying the failure is considered a bad idea. But you do whatever works for you.

 

the gauge I had didn't fit in the hole is the a different way I could measure it like with a thermometer? Sounds crazy.. Or am I going to have to buy an aftermarket gauge that fits.m.

 

okay ase we had a miscommunication my primary fan runs constantly. Its the secondary that runs intermittently with the ac on. So my system is good. Yeah id like to get it cooler...my first buy should be a 180 thermostat? My current one is a new 190 stant.

 

oh nevermind if the passenger side is the primary fan than its having problems... The drivers side turns on around 230.. So its the relay or the wiring... Because it turns on then straight off...

 

so the primary fan tries to turn on then goes off... Then the secondary comes on at 230 and stays on... Would that be the relay not holding the circuit? It couldn't be anything in the wiring...

 

so there are 4 wires going into the relay. I switched my relays and the same thing happened so a relay is not bad. When the car is on and past 230, I probe the orange and brown wires going into the relay. They are both hot. When I probe the grey one.. The primary fan turns on.. This grey wire goes to the ac sensor thing so that's for when the ac is on. The last wire goes to the fan. What wire would tell the fan to turn on when it gets past 227? Obviously my primary fan is not working right its not turning on. What do I chek
ck..

 

the primary fan goes to the ecm right? maybe the ecm i bought and put in had something wrong with that?

 

its the same numbers on the ecm just it came from a v6... Car runs fine its just this fan thing...

 

The ecm pin e8 a dark green/wht wire turns on the relay bye grounding when the ecm detects 226f based on feedback through the cts.

 

so what is my next step. The drivers side fan turns on at about 245. The passenger side does not turn on unless I probe a wire at the relay (relay is good. Fan is good) coolant temp sensor is new (that's the sensor that I had clip problems could the wires be crossed and on the wrong terminals?) I want my car staying below 210. What steps should I take. All help is greatly appreciated.

 

The cts is the same as the mat just a thermistor polarity does not matter.If grounding the green/white wire at the relay turns the fan on check the continuity of that wire to the ecm. If that is good and the ecm pin connection is good sounds like that ecm is bad or the ecm ground wire has a bad connection behind the drivers side cylinder head.

 

the ground from the firewall to the block is tight on the passenger side. I just got this ecm on eBay.. The one you linked me... Ill check for the continuity tomorrow , that's just making sure there's no breaks in the wire right? I hope the ecm isn't bad this will be the second one I've tried... That's likely the case since u did not have this problem before I put that ecm in... Should I try my old ecm and see if it tunes on? Just to see if that's the problem?

 

Yes continuity checks for a break in the wire but if this is a new problem and quick check would be to use your aujp memcal in the old ecm and see if it turns it on.

 

okay ill try that ecm today by the way my speedometer worked today. If my old ecm works then I have to buy a third one.

 

okay same issue the drivers side fan comes on at 230 but no passengers side fan. From what you said before, the relay with the green/white wire is for the drivers side fan that works, not the passenger side.

 

I think ill just get the switch where the fan turns on at 215

 

The secondary fan switch is listed to close at 238f.

 

woah woah according to this the primary is the drivers side...... The other guy said the primary was the passenger side..

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...ans-arent.html

 

that explains so much. It seems like the 185-200 fan is a good way to go. Could you send me a link to a good one?

 

The fan setting can be changed bye reprograming, or a fan controller like a derele . The only other spot on the block to put a coolant grounding switch would be the coolant drain plug hole on the drivers side.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/259/16759/10002/-1

 

no I mean the switch that makes the secondary fan come on sooner.

 

Paste these part # on the Autozone website and it will give you the part numbers you need.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/

TS136 - closes 204 degrees
TS85 - closes at 211 degrees
TS147 - closes at 222 degrees

 

here is some napa part numbers

MPE FS111SB On 245-Off 229

MPE FS112SB 229-Off 213

ECH FS111 On 220-Off 204

ECH FS112 On 229-Off 213

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hyp-4028

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hyp-4026

 

which would you recommend most the TS85?

 

Sure

 

I got the hypertech on at 200 off at 185 alot of people seem happy with it..

 

I di say the passenger side was the primary didn't I. Sorry. My point was supposed to be that it's easy to determine which is which by simply grounding the wire that goes to the secondary fan temp switch. Sounds like Tuned performance has you pointed in the right direction though. It is best, as I think Tuned started to say, to reprogram the ECM for lower primary fan temp and to install a cooler secondary fan temp switch. That way both fans operate as they should, just at lower temps.

 

I got the 200-185 secondary fan switch. I have a question what thermostat works best with that switch.i have a 190 stat now. Would a 180 be better? Or even lower? Thanks guys and let me know

 

by the way i live in Va so we have hot summers and cold winters

 

Anyone using the hypertexh 200-185? What thermostats do you have?

 

If you are going to be running a fan on temp of 200f and off at 185f than run a 160-170 thermostat.

 

got the hypertech powerstat 170

 

Gm 10220957 acdelco 131-84 works well

 

oh well I already got the hypertech. At least all my cooling system upgrades will be hypertech haha

 

While you are at it changing the antifreeze and cleaning any degree in the radiator fins would be a good idea. If the radiator cap is old or if you don't have the means to check the pop off it would be a wise idea to replace it. Having a good pressurized cooling system lowers the boiling point.

 

I think what Tuned means to say is pressure raises the boiling point. About 4 degrees per psi.

 

I put that back azz words
So a 16lb cap would have around a 260f boiling point.

 

Yeah, that's the basic idea. Coolant also contains stabilizing agents that help prevent boiling, as long as coolant is kept fresh and at between 50/50 and 70/30 concentration.

My main concern with not maintaining adequate cooling system pressure is boiling and cavitation in the cylinder heads where the greatest concentration of heat is. Even with a 160 thermostat and 175-180 fan on temp, coolant in the heads can pass boiling temp.

 

well the top seems new and fine and I think I put in here that I already flushed the radiator so it should be clean inside. I'm changing the switch and stat today.

 

well I got them both in and In betting my guage is off because the secondary fan turns on when the gauge reads 160.

 

My temp gauge reads low. It generally never gets above 160. On a hot day idling around town it might get to 180. I've tried various sending units and have verified the gauge movement is good. It's just resistance in the old wiring causing the low reading. My actual hot weather high temp is about 200-205. I did just recently drop my fan on temp from 185 to 175 so that high temp will now be lower.

 

so I'm good! Ill drive around for a week and post anymore problems that arise....

 

Im pretty sure this is the longest thread off topic.

 

got a code 32 today while driving for a long time