Not sure how the weather is in your area but in Chicago land it was reported that for today it was colder here than the south pole. We saw an average temperature of -10*F. It makes me think of engines in general dealing with these extreme temperatures.

We always read that most engine wear is during start up when the oil is some varying degree of cold. So for an everyday vehicle in lieu of an oil heater and heated garage, is the best way to deal with an engine (that will be used that day) to go out and start it every few hours to keep the oil, antifreeze and block temp somewhat high or only start it right before driving?

What temperature is 50/50 coolant good to, -34*F?

What about gasoline and diesel fuels? When should a fuel line antifreeze be added? And are those "antifreezes" for fuels nothing more than an alcohol?

 

Being north of you, we're at -14 at the moment. A decent battery is key at these temps. I always start my truck about 10-15 minutes before I leave somewhere at these temps.

I happen to have an antifreeze checker (old school ball type) and it said I'm good to -20 at least. I've already heard of a few radiator tanks splitting due to freezing around here.

Diesel fuels definitely tend to gel at these temps...they sell additives that help with that. Technically, you really shouldn't need fuel line additives, but never hurt to add "Heat" additive in these temps...

 

I don't put anything into my diesel fuel. Newer diesels don't work well with additives in the fuel. The electronic injectors don't like the additives. Unless you're in the deep south, most of North America should be selling winter diesel so it doesn't gel. If you're worried about gasoline freezing up, put a cup of methanol/methyl hydrate in a full tank.

I run 15w40 oil year round. When it gets down to -20c, I plug in the block heater on a timer but other than that, within a minute of firing up the engine, it automatically idles up in cold weather once it detects some heat in the oil. At that time, it's safe to drive away. A car is no different. After about a minute of idle time, you can drive away.

 

I don't think they're selling "winter diesel" here !! the duramax gelled up the other day at 0 deg and that was after 911 treatment was applied,, would normally use a fuel conditioner but only thing on hand was 911.. Also need fuel conditioner in the Peterbuilt or it WILL gel when temps hit 0 or below.. As for the Iroc,,, it's in my heated garage......

 

As long as you let the car idle for a minute or two (Longer for carbs probably), you should be fine because idleing doesn't really stress the motor. There is enough residual oil on the pistons and piston walls to prevent any serious damage as long as you use a proper oil (10w30 or 10w40 is fine). I personally run AMSOIL 0w30.

 

Here in Alaska most have block heaters. However, some don't, and I have had several vehicles over the years with out a block heater.

We see temperatures below zero for 2-8 weeks every winter; most times it is -20 or even lower for days.

When in a hurry the vehicle will run for about one minute, ideally 5 minutes. The cold doesn't worry me and most engines lubricate within seconds of starting. No point in wasting fuel when you can easily and slowly drive off warming you and the car up while saving gas.

However, the transmission is another story.

My Explorer was an automatic and it was a slug till it was warmed up.

My wife's Caravan is the opposite, the transmission doesn't mind but the engine doesn't like to move unless warm.

My Subaru was a manual and would be ready to drive away in about five minutes, when it had under 250k miles it didn't care, but as it closed in on 300k it became picky.

My 87 Suburban didn't care, the transmission (auto) never felt sluggish, and the engine did great even with 240k miles it would warm up within minutes and roast me. Actually had to cover the radiator my first winter having it, or it wouldn't get warm enough.

 

I wouldnt do that since starting is the hardest on motor. Ideally you want a external oil pump on a switch with oil heater. Bring oil to a warmer temp, turn pump on to get pressure built up and then start motor. Bearings will last longer that way but not many have a system like that

If you build the motor with anti friction coated bearings and such, that also helps alot

 

My question was aimed mainly at a car that is driven in the morning and afternoon and evening. So it cools down nearly completely in between. Is it still better to leave it until its time to drive it or to start it every hour or two or three depending on the temp.

 

I wouldn't worry about it. If you are, and there are provisions to plug it in, get a block heater and plug it in. I know in Alaska many locations have plug-ins for block heaters in the winter.

 

Mostly in Fairbanks area. There are not many here, and Anchorage is congested.

With the cost of electricity rising, no one is going to let you plug in. most electricity plug-ins are polls that are located in apartment complexes. Mine is directly linked into my apartment to a switch.

 

I've really been considering installing a Wabasto pre heater on my diesel truck this winter. Turn it on and it takes less than 30 minutes to get the engine to operating temperature. The heater uses a tenth of the fuel that the engine would use to do the same thing. When the coolant is hot enough, the heater turns off. I could even wire it into my remote start keyfob so I wouldn't have to go outside to turn it on. There's also a timer option available. With the Wabasto, the engine can be preheated even if there's no electricity around for a block heater. Good for parking on the street, big parking lots etc. Not really an option for gasoline powered vehicles but a great option for diesels.

 

I am currently doing a rebuild on a 84 TA with a 350 (was the 305 HO)... what block heater part number would be correct? I've done a search and since the 350 was not available in 84 I came up short. When I put in 80 Camaro I got GM #996247, but having difficulty locating it. Kat's P/N I have not found as their website catalog hangs up my computer during download. Any suggestions?

 

IMHO , gas engines are not significantly wear affected at cold temps in the -20-0 range (maybe colder than that might be harder). I base this on the fact that we regularly see those kind of temps during winter here. No vermont DD car I've worked on had problems related to poor lube such as blown rings or worn bearings. Didn't see any evidence of that at the service shop I worked at either. I think that if the cold starting was a big issue we would see more if those types of problems here.
We do see a higher rate of rust, susp damage and brake wear because of our salty, bumpy roads.

 

Nobody is entertaining the idea that a couple cold starts will ruin the engine; however, any reliable and credible reading material will agree that engine wear is accelerated at startup and slowly tapers off until the oil is up to operating temp. I believe you would find a difference in wear on the cylindr walls and bearings on an engine that lives in cold temps vs warm temps especially an engine making short trips in cold weather. I do think cold start ups are in issue, which is why block heaters are prevalent in cold areas.

 

I spent 3 months in Germany, December 2012 - February 2013 with my 84 as a daily driver and no block heater. I had nary an issue with the cold that averaged single digits for all of January.

 

All these posts, and no one has mentioned the oil. If a mineral oil is used, pumping at low temperature can be a challenge. If a true PAO synthetic is used, pumping is achieved as low as -70°F, and if the oil pumps and flows better when cold, it can also lubricate better when cold.

I stopped using block heaters about 15-20 years ago. They can help, but aren't necessary if a good lubricant and proper coolant mix are used. The coldest I've ever started a SBC was -44°F (actual, not this "wind chill" crap) and the biggest concerns were the battery having the current reserve to run the starter and the howling PS pump once it started - The PS pump had mineral oil in it.

FWIW, I've pull-started snowmobiles colder than that, and the gasoline wasn't a problem. Diesels, OTOH, sometimes need all the help they can get, and a block heater on a diesel is probably a good idea.

 

Nobody including me.
It's certainly possible that there is more wear and that the wear is noticeable on a torn down engine. What I'm saying is that it doesn't seem to be a SIGNIFICANT , meaning having any noticeable consequences, effect on engine wear. If it was that big a difference in wear at those temps, then we should have a corresponding increase in internal engine failures at higher mileages due to inferior lubrication, which I'm not seeing. Believe me, the cars I have worked on were not babied, lots of short, cold trips.
There are other parts of the car that are more seriously affected by cold, especially hydraulics. Hard on shocks, brake MC s,clutch hydraulics, etc. we replaced many clutch slaves at the shop, and all the cars I've stripped had leaking hydraulics, even much newer ones than ours. Unfortunately, not much you can do to defend those components from cold.

My point would be, yes there are consequences to operating in cold temps, but not a big deal for the engine and not much you can do about it anyway, besides making sure you change the oil on the "severe duty" schedule.

Diesels are a totally different matter, of which I have no expertise but have seen many problems with cold operation.