Hello,

My first post. Tried to find this info on the forum, but have failed. I swapped my computer controlled carb and distributor for non-computer Rochester Qjet and vacuum Hei dist. Startaed and ran amazing for about an hour and then started running like crap. Barely idle, no power through primaries, have to rev to secondaries to get or stay moving. Then it may run decent for a short time after a stop, then back to previous mayhem. It does not seem to idle like it has an obvious vacuum leak and I tried to mend or block anything obvious during the swap. I hooked most of the hoses back up to the carb just to get going, but want to get rid of all emissions stuff that will not harm my engine. I would like to get back to more of a 1970's engine set-up.

Looking for help on this. What can I take off etc.

Thank you

Bikerdaddy

 

Check your plugs. Running fine for a bit then going to crap is a sure sign of plug foulage from a too-rich mixture. If they're black, clean them up and find out why it's running so rich.

You didn't post whether this carb was cleaned/rebuilt before install?

The ECM stuff can be removed by carefully pulling the ECM harness back through the fenderwell opening and tucking it away or storing it. If this is an earlier model with the vacuum controlled EVAP, I'd leave it in place.

 

The carb is a reman and distributor is new. Have new plugs and will check / install. At idle doesn't smell rich. Did find a rotted vacuum line and also looks like the pcv valve tubing may not have been properly seated. Came to the same conclusion on the evap system.

Seemed to run much better with the hoses fixed, but haven't been on the road yet.

I started working the wiring back toward the fire wall but hit a couple snags.

The choke and coolant temp sensor. Do I need to run new wiring to these? Not sure how to do this. Don't want to lose my temp guage if possible. Really want to get rid of the egr stuff. Removed the pump and hoses and car didn't seem to get mad. Am planning on removing the piping on exhaust manifolds and plugging the holes. would also like to remove the cat converter. Any tips or suggestions appreciated. We do not have emission testing in my area.

Thank you for your help.

 

The ECM wiring is completely separate from the engine harness. It comes through the right fenderwell by the HVAC blower and can all be pulled back. Leave the engine harness in place, it includes the stuff you need to keep to include the choke heater wire.

If you have an 87 or L69 you will have an in tank pump with a two wire connector from the ECM harness to the OPSU behind the dist. Will have to work around that as you want to maintain function of the in tank helper pump.

Automatic will need alternate method of lockup as that function was controlled by the ECM. Important issue for the 700 to reduce heat, especially important for the early 700s.

 

My car is a 1984 with 5 speed.

Thanks for all the info.