I need to replace my voltage regulator, I think it's a prob so I figured ide change it out. I dont know where the hell it is located though, if anyone could tell me where or send a pic and possibly tell me the process from beginning to end to replace that would be awesome.

My issue is I have replaced the alternator twice, brand new battery since it just died due to last alternator. When I stop my volts meter goes down and wonder what else it could be.

 

Every time you have replaced the alternator , you have replaced the regulator , as it is an internal component of the alternator . The regulators have been a self contained component of the alternator since sometime in the early to mid 1970s if I recall correctly .

In other words , your problem lies elsewhere .....

 

Well ffs, being a old school there really is no more I can think to check out then, any ideas?

 

Since you have already replaced both the alternator and battery and are still having problems , the next likely suspect could be the wiring itself , as in a poor connection somewhere in the circuit . Remember , there is a big wire from the alternator that is connected directly to the battery to bring the charging voltage to it and then there are also two smaller wires that connect to the alternator as well . On my car (which has no charging issues) one of the two small ones is also directly connected to the battery while the other small one is connected to power whenever the key is on . I would take a voltmeter and check to see if all 3 wires going to the alternator have the appropriate voltages and it's likely you'll find one of the three to be without it's proper voltage . If I recall correctly the larger one has a fusable link connecting it to the terminal block near where the charcoal can is mounted , the always hot smaller one is connected to one of the fusable links that are on the big lug of the starter , and the third small one is fed from the dashboard somewhere (I'd have to look at the schematic to refresh my memory as to where) .

So , it's time to bust out that voltmeter and then post your results .

 

Does the car have under-drive pulleys? If so, the alternator is spinning too slow at idle and not charging the battery.

you can speed it back up by installing a smaller alternator pulley OR put the stock pulleys back on the (crank, water pump, alternator)

otherwise check the wiring... at idle you should see 13+ volts at the battery..

Good luck

 

Yea not sure if the belt is can be changed, I know that I have the alternator pulled way back making the belt currently to tight, i say this because every now and then I get that noise from the belt letting me know it's too tight.

One thing I notice is that my rpm at idle is uner 1k and this happens often, and its when my volts go lower

 

Your RPM should be under 1K at idle. A factory alternator does not deliver the maximum current rating. For example if you have a 90 amp alternator it can not deliver 90 amps at idle. It will be much less. So if you try and draw more current than the alternator can deliver than the voltage will drop.

RPM's at the alternator will determine how much current it can deliver. If you lower the rpms (of the alternator) by using a smaller crank pulley or larger alternator pulley you limit the alternators current output

 

Okay so smaller cable from the alternator to the other two will make the alternator give more amps?

As it is if I turn my heater on in the morning for defrost and the headlights my volts dip below 13 and that's on a brand new alternator and battery.

 

Brother I have no clue how to tell what your talking about, I know that the belt for my alternator connects with two other wheels, but if you can tell me how I could tell then ill check right away

 

He's asking if you have "under drive " pulleys on the engine. These are replacement pulleys of different size that allow less drag and make the alternator charge better at higher rpms. It sounds like you prob don't have that.
Your problem is very likely bad cables, batt to starter and/ or battery to alternator.

 

check and clean your battery connections and make sure your belt is not slipping. Even if the belt is tight if the belt is old or glazed it can possibly slip at idle. also check your belt tensioner if you have one. If you have a weak tensioner it will cause your belt to slip. If you absolutely think its the voltage regulator(which if you are buying rebuilt alternators very possible) take it off and have it tested for free at a big name auto parts store like autozone. lastly check your engine ground wire. The alternator ground is through the case mount to engine block back to ground. a poor connection puts resistance on the wiring.