Having exhausted the search function and reading every possible post for the last week, I am becoming frustrated with this issue.

Let me say that there are several more areas that can be checked, but my time is becoming limited on some weeks and would like to just present what is going on. Perhaps someone has had the exact same problem.

-When cold it has a miss. Goes away when warmed up.

-Sluggish between 750-2000 rpm's.

-Used to stall when going into gear until warmed up. However, after cleaning the maf that has gone away. At least so far.

-When less than 160 degrees the idle surges when you let off the gas, bouncing from 500-1500 rpm or until slowed down beneath 10 mph or complete stop at idle.

-Unplug the maf while running and it ran like garbage.

-Replaced my Iac and have not been able to tighten back into place perfectly. Could this cause the issue; it appear tight and should not have any leaks.

-One thing that was noticed when pulling the maf off; there is no rubber ring around the sensor. Tried some duct tape to tighten the gaps as a tester and did not help.

Anyways, that is everything. The maf looks to be a couple years old.

Any ideas and help would be great!

-David

 

Sounds like a vac leak. Mine did this when it was cold running in open loop. Once it gets warmed up it goes into closed loop and the computer takes over and the surge goes away. Best way to find a vac leak is to spray carb cleaner at all the intake conections. Go slow, it takes a few seconds to have an effect, but when you find the leak it will increase the engine speed.

 

Did not find any vacuum leaks. Now appears to be running richer - rich enough to give me a headache.

 

the MAF cars can be hell to sort out.take a deep breath ,go on vacation whatever. but I suggest this. start with the relays ,both MAF power and burnoff. and the wiring between the MAF and relays has to be perfect. buy a NEW MAF sensor,certainly not a re man one(AVOID ANY AND ALL CHINESE PARTS!!!).then check out the TPS and IAC. then check the throttle body bushings for wear.by the way starting fluid works best for finding vaccum leaks.then check out your injectors. they could be out of range or leaking.if all this is to spec, next on the list would be the computer itself. and the MEMCAL. buy yourself a factory service manual,they are absolutely vital. good luck and go see what you can find out

 

Starter fluid will work to find vac leaks, but if you choose to use it be sure to have a fire extingusher handy. Seriously, any atomized fuel will work. Carb cleaner has the highest flash point making it the safest to use.

 

Edit: Never mind figured it out. My tps is now set at .54, was .59 :-) However, it still throwing code 34.

On another note: My IAC was lose so I tightened it, and may have over done it. I was trying to get the sensor back up-top, and may have over done it. If that is even possible. Anyways, I got some tae left over after installing a new shower head a few months back, I am going to wrap it around for a tight seal for testing to see if that is the problem now.





Perhaps, I am not reading the instructions correctly for checking my tps. Where is the jumper wire supposed to go? Between the (A) and (B) pin? Not the ground - after it is connected with the two pins does the connector need to be plugged into the tps? Or--does the red lead contact the jumper wire between (A) and (B) pin while grounded?

Otherwise, I connected a safety pin around the red lead and contacted the center (B) pin (second one down) and it registered 0.06v at idle and 0.23v at full throttle. This was with the connector disconnected.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.