With key "off", jumper orange to green/wht wire with relay connected. Your pump should run if your relay is good and all the wiring from relay to pump is good. Try it and see what you get.

 

I did, i tried with two separate relays and pump did not run.

 

With the key "off" and the relay in place, jumper the orange wire to the green/wht wire and see if your pump runs.

 

Are you using a piece of wire to jumper the wires together?

 

As noted before I did this and the pump did not run. I switched out and tried a second relay that i have and did the same test pump did not run either. I did this with the car off and the relay in place. I did this using a multimeter, red probe to orange wire, black probe to green/white wire. I suspect the wire from the relay to the pump are good because if I put that older bad relay on the pump starts to prime non stop on its own with car off, so it at least sends a signal from there.

 

OK, you can not use the probes from your meter as jumpers. You need to use a piece of wire of at least 16 gauge. try this and see what happens.

 

Should I not use the multimeter or set the multimeter to a different setting other than for volts?

 

Ah OK, let me give that a try, i should have some 12 gauge lying around, that OK?

 

Yup!

 

Well what do you know. The first time i have ever heard the relay click and the pump ran! So what does that mean, bad ECM or bad wiring from the ECM?

 

Yup! Need to check that green/wht wire at the ECM and see if it has power for the 2 seconds after key "on" and/or with engine running. If not, bad ECM, UGGGGH!

 

Hopefully just a loose wire at the ECM (check the pin is pushed in all the way into the connector as they tend to get pushed out when removing and re-attaching connectors).
As you had the 2 second prime voltage before, I am thinking just a bad wire/connection somewhere as any of the testing you have done should not have damaged the ECM.

 

I know, around here ECM is like 70-100 bucks, guess it could be worse though.

Question. I looked at the wires on the ECM there are a million of them. I see two green/white wires, one is almost lime green the other a darker green which I think is the wire to the relay, but not sure. There is no way for me to test it without removing some of the plastic insulation. Would I expect to find the same color wire or is it best to identify where it connects through a chart?

Also Given that I tested the green/white wire at the relay with the car on and engine not running and got 11.7 volts is it fair to assume the power is there but ECM is bad or is that not good enough a test to determine bad ECM?

 

Forget about that 11.7 volts you saw with your meter as I stated above, a high input impedance meter will read voltage through an open circuit if the open circuit resistance is lower than the input impedance of the meter. To satisfy your curiosity, hook a test light from dark green/wht to ground and then see if you have 11.7 volts from dark green/wht to ground. No? Anyway, the dark green/wht wire is the one you need to test but I would think that if the pin is not pushed out of the connector it is probably the ECM driver for that circuit (this may also be the intermittent root of your code 54). Check the wire at the connector to be sure it is not backed out of the connector and while you have the connector off the ECM, using your meter for resistance reading (Ω symbol), test between dark green/wht at ECM connector and the dark green/wht at the fuel pump relay. Should read near 0.00 ohms.

 

OK thanks again for all your help on this Bigal55! You've been great! I'll check for pushed out pins tomorrow and see what I find.

 

OK no pins appear to be pushed out, they all look good. I can't seem to find any break in the line, hard to trace honestly, but from what I can visibly see it appears fine. I've not run a continuity test, I think i'd have to get a very long wire to do that. I've ordered a new ECM and hopefully that will do the trick otherwise i'll be out a few bucks and still in search off, lol. Thanks again for all your help! Once the ECM is in place I'll make sure to update this thread with results.

 

OK as promised I'm back to report the final results. I received the new ECM (Engine Control Module) today. It required that I swap out two chips (The Prom and what the other one is I have no idea, in fact the instructions did not mention the other chip, but after switching the PROM and closing up the new ECM I noticed another chip on the old one. I re-opened the new ECM and while there was a place for that chip, it was not there, so I swapped it out too.) Any way swapped all the rest of the hardware from the outside of the old ECM to the new one. I disconnected the ground to the car battery just to be safe and reconnected the new ECM to my car. Reconnected the ground back to the car battery (elaborating in detail for any future reader) and put the key to the on position without actually cranking the engine and I could hear the fuel pump prime!!!! It did so for 2 seconds. I cranked her up and she started right up with no more 10 seconds of cranking. The check engine light did not come on either. That was it a bad ECM. I have not yet actually driven her around because it's dark and raining and I'm tired, but she was idling beautifully. I will give her a drive tomorrow. Thanks all that assisted in troubleshooting this headache.

In summary for anyone working similar issues in the future:

Problem #1: No spark condition, car would not start. Turns out the wire connector clip on the ignition coil was broken and the connector was riding up the coil prongs not making a good connection.

Solution: Albeit might be temporary - used a zip tie to hold the connector down, eventually will replace the connector.

Problem #2: Main reason I started this thread. Pump would not stop priming even with car off and key removed from the ignition.

Solution: Bad Fuel Pump Relay - replaced the relay and constant priming stopped. Make sure you identify the correct relay, I thought I had the right one and was totally wrong which dragged out the solution far longer than I needed to. :-)

Problem #3: Hard start, car would not prime for two seconds when turning the ignition on without cranking the engine. Fuel Relay system being bypassed and fuel pump being run by the Oil Pressure Sending Unit (OPSU).

Solution: Bad ECM (fuel control circuit most likely in the ECM) Replaced ECM.

In addition she'd been running pretty crapy previously and changing the PCV valve seem to make a huge difference at that time. It's a $3 part so worth checking if you have poor idle/performance.