I have a 1985 firebird 2.8 v6 and I want to swap in a v8. I have decided to go to the local pullapart yard to find a motor and transmission. I have never been to before, so I need guidelines as to things to look for and also tips and tricks. I have pulled motors and replaced them at home. I need to know what to carry with me and everything. I was thinking my 205 piece tool set some extra tools. I was going to use my wheelbarrow to ferry them and jack and stands to the car. Help me out what am I missing?

 

If you're just looking for a drop in engine then find a vehicle that's been in an accident. Chances are the engine was still running good up until the time of the accident. Pulling an engine from a worn out vehicle may also get you a worn out engine.

If you're pulling an engine to rebuild and install in your car, it can be a lot cheaper to just buy a factory replacement engine from just about any parts store. You then go to the auto wrecker to grab everything else required to swap from a V6 to a V8.

 

Thanks that is good advice on look for a wrecked car. Do they let you do a compression test on the engine? Should I carry a jump pack and gallon of gas to see if I can start it? I haven't been to one and just wondering how much assistance they provide and if I have to put hood back on and stuff like that.

 

Engine to look for will be a 96-2000 Chevy/GMC truck w 5.7L. You'll need an intake manifold for "Vortec" motors, and some sort of carb; I'd recommend a Holley 6210. (man sec spreadbore 650 CFM Q-Jet direct replacement)

DO NOT make the mistake of getting a TBI motor. (95 or earlier) DO NOT make the mistake of getting a 305. (5.0L)

Whatever you spend to get the right motor & trans, it is WORTH. IT. NO AMOUNT of money you can spend after the fact, can make up for getting the wrong "core".

Don't get a 4WD trans, only a 2WD one will work. Keep the extension housing of your existing trans. You will need a transmission other than the truck one of those years (the 96 - 02 truck one will be computer controlled, but your computer cannot control it); for that, look for a car transmission out of a V8 RWD car such as Caprice or even a truck, from 92 or earlier, those being entirely hydraulically controlled; and put the extension housing from your existing trans onto that one, to retain the torque arm provisions.

 

Thanks that helps too. Is the 5.3 swap harder than a 5.7 swap?

 

Yes, and no.

Is brain surgery harder than rocket science? (hint: are you a brain surgeon, or are you a rocket scientist?)

A TOTAL 5.3/4L60E swap into a 6-cyl car is CAKE. Eeeeeeezier IMO than a 5.7 swap in the same situation. All you need is, your existing extension housing, and the whole computer and harness from the 5.3 vehicle. (truck) then you'll need an exhaust (swap headers... no OEM parts will do), a fuel tank, some F-body or Y-body accessory brackets and whatnot, and a F-body oil pan, and you're pretty much ready to go.

 

I have swapped a few engines and trans in my day but that was pre computer controlled. So a carbed 5.7 and turbo 350 will probably be easier. It sounds like I need to find a running 5.3 truck if I went that route to pull everything off. That way I could have it to pull at my leisure.BTW why a different fuel tank?

 

What difference does "computer" make, as far as difficulty?

You stick it in there, you hook it up, it does its job. Not too tough really. It's just another part.

Yes you're right, easiest way to do a 5.3 (or any other LSx swap, or really ANY foreign motor swap like that) is to have a WHOLE donor vehicle to start out with. Odds are, you'll still need other stuff; the exact blibbet you get won't just drop in and drive off; but having a WHOLE setup to begin with, kinda minimizes that.

The reason you'd want the matching fuel tank if you do any LSx swap, 5.3 as much as any other, is that for most of them, the fuel regulator is electronic, and located there; and that stuff doesn't retrofit into the old Stone Age steel gas tanks.

You may regret what seems "easy" NOW every time for all the years you drive the vehicle around afterwards, EVERY TIME you pull into the gas station. Acoupla pennies today may save you HUNDREDS of dollars over time.

 

Pull a part / u pull it yards gives almost NO assistance in removing any part. Normal junkyards will pull things like engines, rear ends, etc for you, but not pull a part.

The ones here in GA. may be diff than yours but are set up like this... Big gravel yard, cars in numbered row. All cars are computer logged and you go into the building. Punch in year/make/model on the little computer and it prints off a list of Row # and year /make of car. You go walking through the yard looking for the row # X car is on. They will not all be together. May have two camaros on row 42, one on row 49, 3 on row 70, one on row 54, etc.

In the yard they have all of the cars sitting up on welded together steel wheels (acts like tall jackstands)... No big floor jacks allowed in the yard.

They have A frame type hoists with car wheels/axles on it sitting in the yard.. About 6 of them. They will provide a come a long or chain hoist to you if you tell them you want to get an engine. You move the A frame hoist over to car, hook the come a lone to it and pull engine out. Once removed find a worker (riding around yard in golf carts) and they will get a front end loader or fork lift over to the hanging engine, and drive the engine out the gate and let it down in your truck/trailer (after you pay of course)

Can't bring in any floor jacks, cutting torch, plasma cutter, etc... But you can bring a small generator, small air compressor, air tools, cordless tools, hand tools.

Most people don't put anything back on the cars once they remove it.. You will see exhaust parts, driveshafts, hoods, etc just laying on/in/around cars

 

Thanks for the heads up on everything guys. Looks like I need to think long and hard about which way I'm going. I'm going to go to the local pullapart and just look around and get a feel for it. I can decide more later.