I recently bought a 5.7L 350 L98 from someone for $150. This is going to be used for a swap from my 3.1L v6. Since my V6 is holding up right now relatively strong, I decided to rebuild my 350 before it goes in since it's out and I was tearing it apart checking it since he had it sitting outside for some time. He didn't have a lot of information available to give me on it and what has been done to it. He said it was pulled from a 92 Z28.

Now to the main reason for this topic, what's a good rebuild kit I can get for it? I'm not looking to get a full master rebuild kit. I haven't got down to the crank on it. I don't have a engine stand yet to use for it. The heads are still clean and good, roller cam lifters are still pretty damn clean. I'm going to take it to a machine shop for some work eventually once I find a machine shop near me.

Thanks!

 

If you take it to a machine shop eventually, then eventually you will need a whole kit.

I would save money and wait until it gets back from the machine shop to see what bore he machined it to (.030 over, .040 over, ect..) and the same goes for the crank and mains, need to know what size bearings and stuff to order once the shop is finished. You will have to match your head gasket to your build (raising/lowering CR)..

So much more depends on how you plan to build the engine rather than simply band-aiding it together piece by piece. Slow down, take your time, save your money and buy good, quality parts that are correct for your unique application and will hold up when put to the test.

PLAN AHEAD. KNOW what you want to build. ASK questions.

 

Well, my plan is to build it to withhold a few drag runs in the future. I am in no rush for this.

I guess I'll have to get to tearing it to a base block so I can take the block and heads to a shop for some work, and proceed from there. Possibly then, I can go ahead and shop for the other things I'll need. lol

 

Check out northern auto parts. They have very good re-ring kits, and master kits with many upgrade options. I buy most of my rebuild kits from them.

 

So, due to tight funds, I'm wondering if I could dodge the full rebuild with machine work, cleaning, etc.

I know my crankshaft is **** atm.

Would it be safe to just buy a rebuild kit and put it in under certain circumstances of the blocks's condition?

So far, I tore the block down to base block and plugs. One piston was broken to an edge. once that piece came free, the rings just fell right off. The cylinder walls have "some" wear to them, but nothing that looks like something went carving through it.




The rings fell off shortly after this was taken lol.

All bearings are ****. Good thing a rebuild kit includes a new set ehh. lol.

The rust in the cooling lines throughout the block, I know can be flushed out with some sort of solvent.

Or would it be best I just give out a arm and a leg to get the machining work done?

 

Resurface the crankshaft and use oversized bearings .It can be done ...I did that on my chrysler 300M (they throw rods by design ).Can't find american engines here to swap so i have to fix and I can assure you it works.Now I don't know if it will last 1 million miles but it will last enough to get your money worth from that engine.

Tricky part is to find a shop to get the crankshaft done cheap.If you can do it for free than you only have to get rod bearings.If you don't charge yourself for labor you can rebuild the engine for few dollars

 

I have a complete rotating assembly out of an L31 Vortec motor I'd give you for free if you live in NJ.

 

That engine needs a "full" rebuild' By whatever definition you assign to "full".

It needs the cylinders bored, the decks resurfaced, the crank tunnel checked for straightness and concentricity, the crank reground, the rods checked carefully for out-of-round in the big end and replaced if not right. It needs new pistons and rings to fit the new bore, new bearings of course, new timing set. And of course clean-up, paint, etc.

The heads need the seats and valves ground, the guides checked for wear and bronze sleeves installed if they're worn, new springs, and proper setup for whatever cam you decide to go back with. Now would be the time for some MILD hand-porting, especially cleaning up all the weird steps and ridges and angles in the bowl right behind the seats where the factory just jammed their cutters down into the casting.

I think you just found out why you only paid $150 for it. Which is about right for a desirable core (rebuildable wore-out) engine, which an actual L98 core would be considered "desirable". Not a bad price really.

"Tight funds" is irrelevant. The parts aren't listening, and won't un-wear themselves out or un-destroy themselves, just because you P&M a bunch. It costs what it costs to make it right. If you don't make it right, you'll have an end product that will make you sick with regret every time you turn the key. It is POINTLESS to get on here and P&M at us about "funds". In the end, the lowest-cost way to handle rebuilding a motor, is NOT to use cheeeeeeeeeep parts and services, skimp on the whole deal, attempt to re-use stuff that isn't re-useable, and so forth: that only leads to a pile of garbage. Try that, you'll find yourself going back and doing it AGAIN. It's NEVER "cheeeeeeper" to do something half-a$$ed once, have it not work out, then go back a SECOND time and THIS TIME do it right. Shortest, most direct, lowest cost, least disappointment route, is to do it RIGHT the FIRST TIME, so you only have to do it ONCE.

There's going to be ALOT more than just the engine involved in this swap. You'll need accessories, exhaust, a transmission, wiring, and so on. It'd be a GREAT idea to put the whole "tight funds" crap out of your vocabulary RIGHT NOW and instead concentrate on learning what results in success and what leads to failure, and go to work on assuring the former.

 

Yes SOFA has the correct advice. If your looking for information that will rebuild your chevy 350 for nearly free will be waiting for ever. Fact is the sbc is the most economical engine to buy and rebuild in the world. A brand new 260hp GM Goodwrench 350 motor is only $1,500. And u can buy generic 350 rebuilds from the auto parts stores closer to $1,000 but it will have a warranty. More horsepower is gonna cost more. Blue Print motors and ATK motors have hi-po motors in the $3,000 range. Its really hard to beat those prices and u will save maybe 20% on the same build doing it yourself - if your lucky. Most that home build a motor themselves do so to get the specific build using expensive parts they want rather than the savings from their own labor.

What im saying is your motor w/broken piston is beyond a simple re-ring and re-bearing overhaul. And if a 350" sbc is to expensive for u to rebuild then u should consider geting rid of that 350 and drive the V6 into the ground. Then when that expires buy another V6 camaro for simple transportation. Rebuilding a motor does take several skills and though everyone needs to start and learn somewhere failure is more likely on your first try and your new investment in parts can easily become junk. Reading here and on other forums that engine rebuilding is simple is very misleading for the new enthusiast. Most beginners cannot even adj the vlvs let alone select and measure bearing shells for clearance, verify ring gaps, check crank end play and rod clearances, install the timing set let alone degree a camshaft. How many owners know where all the block galley plugs are to remove and replace? Im afraid to hear it.

"Tight funds"? If u dont have at least $2,000 available for a basic rebuild and closer to $3,000 for performance build then get out of it.

 

I agree, but disagree slightly with what the guys are saying. Nowadays unless you want to keep the stock engine/engine family or you already have sbc parts to reuse you may be better off going with a full LS swap. buying an entire engine, tranny and harness with ecm and install it with the conversion motor mounts, engine mounts and exhaust manifolds or headers. Not much trouble to find a mid-mile engine from a newer chevy truck at a larger wrecking yard. The yard by the dragstrip in St Louis used to do sales, $500 for and entire drivetrain.

 

I was thinking the same thing. He's in for about $1k in machine work alone. Reusing his stock rods doesn't make sense, I'd just buy floaters, pistons, crank, etc, etc.

He would be better off buying a junkyard 6.0 + trans. He already needs a new computer, intake, motor mounts, headers, transmission,etc since he has a v6 car. Might as well go LS.

-- Joe

 

Definitely a better plan than cheeeeeeeeping out and half-a$$ing a 350.

Even a 5.3/4L60E pullout would likely end up costing less than cheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep-out 350 rebuild & swap, and giving better results than a GOOD 350 job. Since after all, a whole bunch of the expenses and efforts are going to be ABOUT THE SAME either way... exhaust, transmission, wiring, and so forth, for EITHER approach.

In NO CONCEIVABLE UNIVERSE does the idea of flim-flamming a 350 together using pre-destroyed shrapnel and then going through all the pain of a swap only to end up with a smoking, under-powered, unreliable, short-lived TURD make any sense, that much is for sure.

 

And being California he has to comply with the emissions laws still, doubtful he could get everything needed for a functioning L98 emissions equipment.

On the plus side there are plenty of dyno videos of stock 5.3 engines not breaking until the high 500 wheel hp range.

 

I didn't even notice the California thing.. Maybe he should use his money to relocate his residence first..

-- Joe

 

^^ Best advice so far!

 

Damn. Harsh, but true facts. Lol. I'm holding on the 350 until I do have those "funds" and then some. lol. No rush primarily because we all know, CA bullshit emissions requirement for reporting to the DMV that the engine was swapped and with that, It requires absolutely everything that was with it in terms of emissions from the 92 Z28 it came from.

Likely will continue work on the block as an experience and try to find a donor Camaro in time for a LS1 swap and kinda just run that and swap back later when I am prepared for putting the 350 into my 91.