Heating/cooling problem
Heating/cooling problem
ok here it is, I have replaced the radiator, thermostat, hoses, fan,fan motor and my car still runs hot. Even replaced some electrical stuff as well thinkinf the signal wasnt getting through for the fan to turn on.. If I cannot have it fixed this weekend when I drop it off at the dealer I will toss the car in the junk and get a Civic. Frustration is killing me. Anyone else know what a possible cause could be?
1991 RS 305 TBI/stock
1991 RS 305 TBI/stock
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,746
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From: Tucson, AZ
Car: 1991 Z-28
Engine: Can you say stroke?!?!
Transmission: 700-r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Have you checked to see if your getting good flow? Are you sure that there isn't anything slowing the flow down in the block? Is the water pump working properly? Just some thing's I'd ask and for you to think about. Oh yeah, how hot is the engine getting?
Hope that helps.
Hope that helps.
Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,164
Likes: 1
From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
Does the car overheat in traffic, the highway or both. If on the highway, make sure your airdam is in tact. Have you replaced your radiator cap? And like said above make sure your waterpump is flowing coolant.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
What makes you think it "runs hot"? Exactly what is it doing?
The electric fan in these cars as it comes from the factory doesn't even turn on until the engine reaches 230° or more, which is most of the way to the red mark on the typical stock temp gauge. This is therefore normal. If the temp gets up to that point, then the fan comes on and it cools back down to 210° (a little below mid-scale on the factory gauge).
If you have coolant spewing everywhere, replace your radiator cap. If the fan doesn't ever come on by itself but comes on when the A/C is on, replace the fan's temp switch (pass side head between #6 # #8 plugs. If the fan never comes on period, replace the fan relay (one of the ones by the brake booster, look for the one with 2 large wires, one red & one black, and 2 small ones). If the car works fine but the gauge reads way high, replace the gauge sending unit (driver's side head between #1 & #3 plugs. If the car overheats on the highway, replace the lower air dam (piece of plastic about 6" tall directly underneath the radiator).
The electric fan in these cars as it comes from the factory doesn't even turn on until the engine reaches 230° or more, which is most of the way to the red mark on the typical stock temp gauge. This is therefore normal. If the temp gets up to that point, then the fan comes on and it cools back down to 210° (a little below mid-scale on the factory gauge).
If you have coolant spewing everywhere, replace your radiator cap. If the fan doesn't ever come on by itself but comes on when the A/C is on, replace the fan's temp switch (pass side head between #6 # #8 plugs. If the fan never comes on period, replace the fan relay (one of the ones by the brake booster, look for the one with 2 large wires, one red & one black, and 2 small ones). If the car works fine but the gauge reads way high, replace the gauge sending unit (driver's side head between #1 & #3 plugs. If the car overheats on the highway, replace the lower air dam (piece of plastic about 6" tall directly underneath the radiator).
I put a water pump in as well. I think there is blockage in the block somewhere. The car runs hot on both highway and city driving. The temperature runs right up tp the red like the slowly backs out. Randomly it well go back to normal for a few minutes. Im starting to guess there is a blockage somewhere.
I would sure check the temp with a direct reading guage. I had a "hot" indication after building a 350 from scratch. turned out to be a sending unit/guage problem. the car runs at 190. was very frustrating since the direct guage was the last thing I tried! Just a thought
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