So I'm helping my dad get his 82 camaro going after its been sitting for a while and the Injectors won't fire up. Now I'll go through the things I have done to eliminate possibilities.
1. Spark - has spark engine will run with gas in throttle bodies or starting fluid
2. Fuel Pressure - on prime it goes to about 10 and then while running hits about 12 but no spray from injectors
3. Noid light - The noid light shows no pulse at all
4. fuel pump/relay - fuel pump runs when jumped, put new relay in cause old one started clicking a ton, now new one seems to click quite a bit while priming, but this shouldn't affect injectors.
5. Ignition module - took it into Oreilly's to get it tested and it passed to be good(really thought this was it, as it had the symptoms of one going bad in hot weather last time it drove, did the whole die/ no power and won't go over 2k rpms no hot start but cold start. I think we replaced it though can't quite remember)
6. Pick up Coil - across leads it tested at 850 ohms and when applied to one lead and ground showed open loop as the pdf I found said to do.


Ok now to things that have happened to the car. First my dad burned up the first ecm hooking up jumper cables wrong so bought another. Second it has a diablo 2 security system that is in valet mode(disabled). It sat for about a year or so under cover.

I tried to test the voltage coming out of the ecm pin to the number one injector, but it didn't really seem like I was getting a reading. I got 3v for one second but then mostly 0 with a small amount of jumping.

If anybody has any ideas on what could be stopping the injectors from firing or knows how to definitevely test the ecm that would be great. I don't believe this car has vats as it is an 82 and has an aftermarket alarm system on it.

 

Quick update, the driver side injector fired off once...and only once I'm thinking at this point it must be the ecm? or maybe I have some weird distributor problem with sending the signal to the ecm

 

The injectors each receive ignition power(12 volts) through a 3 amp fuse. I don't have this information on hand for the 82 but I assume these fuses are in the under dash fuse panel and will be labeled INJ. Check both sides of each fuse with a 12 volt test light. If the fuses are blown, look for shorts, damage in the harness.

There should be power on one of the two wires at each injector. With the injector connected, you should see this power(through the injector coil) at the other wire as well. The ECM grounds the control side to operate the injector.

 

Yup sorry forgot to mention fuses are fine I checked those first haha. Now the fuel relay is clicking a bunch and the check engine light flickers with the clicks However it turns out my dad bought the replacement ecm from Oreilly's so I'm kinda thinking it might just be a ****ed up ecm. Going to see if I can find an extra someone has

 

Should be a violet wire with white stripe from the HEI module to the ECM that is crank reference pulse. It should have a 5 volt square wave when the engine is cranking.

The fast clicking of the relay could also be caused by a poor ground connection.

 

Hmm couldn't find the violet wire, but I'll check out the wiring diagram for 82. Thanks for the direction

 

The LH bank injector (drivers side) is for bank 2. The RH bank injector (passenger side) is for bank 1. Bank 1 has one 3 amp fuse, bank 2 has a 3 amp and a 10 amp fuse. Also check TPS readings if not correct or high WOT at idle it would be in clear flood mode, no injector pulse. If engine is flooded check ECT sensor, we replaced a lot on crossfires, and sometimes would have to remove plugs to clean.
Joe

 

The 10 amp fuse is to the ECM, not the injector. I made the same mistake at first looking at the diagram. Right on about the ECT sensor, that should also set a code 15 if it's very far off or open. ECM will default to -34 degrees and dump fuel into the engine. Take a close look at the ECT connector too for corrosion, broken wire(s) and poor terminal contact. Good call on the TPS too. It should read about .5 volts on the dark blue wire. Ohm test the ECT. It should read about 3,400 ohms at 70 degrees.

EDIT: TPS should be .5 volts at closed throttle and rise smoothly to 4.5 volts at WOT.

 

I can't get any codes to flash despite the light working...I'm swapping in a ECM real quick cause I'm friends at the auto parts store. I will check the tps and ect if it doesn't work though

 

Do you have a DVOM? The TPS and ECT are both easy to test. Scan tool data is my preferred method for checking these sensors. ECM data tells me what the ECM is actually seeing. If I see something in data that doesn't look right, then I move to testing sensor circuits. Be sure before you connect a replacement ECM that there is not a short circuit in either injector circuit. Ohm test the injectors to be sure they aren't shorted internally. This can damage the injector drivers.

Before pulling the trigger on an ECM replacement, always verify all power and ground circuits are good.

 

As an update it did turn out to be the ECM being had. I checked the ohms on the injectors before and they were fine but I'll double check just in case.
thanks for the help guys

 

So she runs now? My first 3rd gen was an 82 TA with crossfire. I loved that car. It's what got me hooked on the 3rd gen F body to begin with.

 

Yup she's running now! Just fighting a high idle now...replaced all vacuum lines too I think it's either ECT or IAC. I went from a 67 mustang to BMW 325is to my 82. Handles like it's on rails haha. I've beat quite a few Porsches and BMWs through the corners but the need for speed got me so I LS swapped an base model 87, but it doesn't handle nearly as well 😒

 

Sounds like your 87 needs springs and sway bars. The 86 and up with special handling package got the biggest sway bars.