Torque converter questions
#1
Torque converter questions
Hey guys. I have a 88 camaro with a '74? 5.7L just finished putting 906 vortec heads that have been machined for better springs and a Lunati Voodoo 10120703 camshaft which recommends a 2400 rpm stall converter. Just looking for some advice and knowledge for my next project as to what the good torque converters are? Do I want to get one with lockup? The car has 4.10 posi rear end gears and 26.5 inch tires. Mainly just want a fast street car for weekends and maybe start getting into racing it on the strip. Thanks.
#2
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Car: '86 Bird, 96 ImpalaSS, 98 C1500XCab
Engine: LG4, LT1, L31
Transmission: 700R4, 4L60E, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Tors, 4.88 spool, 3.73 Eaton
Re: Torque converter questions
2400 is on the tight side for that cam.
I know, there will be someone chiming in here that it's enough, but if you're interested in good strip performance, you'll want a 9.5" converter with at least 3000 rated stall.
If you don't care that much about strip performance, then don't waste your money on any aftermarket 12" converter. If staying with a 12" TC for budget reasons, then just get the GM "S-10" converter.
IMO, there's no reason to not run a lockup TC with the 700R4 trans.
If you want a converter that gives excellent driveability and strip performance, I'd go with Yank. Their SS3600 would be a good fit for your combo.
I know, there will be someone chiming in here that it's enough, but if you're interested in good strip performance, you'll want a 9.5" converter with at least 3000 rated stall.
If you don't care that much about strip performance, then don't waste your money on any aftermarket 12" converter. If staying with a 12" TC for budget reasons, then just get the GM "S-10" converter.
IMO, there's no reason to not run a lockup TC with the 700R4 trans.
If you want a converter that gives excellent driveability and strip performance, I'd go with Yank. Their SS3600 would be a good fit for your combo.
#3
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Re: Torque converter questions
This would be my next choice in the Camaro. In fact it was to be my next converter but circumstances conspired against me and I ended up with the next level up in another TCI 10" instead. When used in the Monte Carlo, a swap from the TCI to the Yank netted another 2/10ths or so in the 60' over and above what was gained earlier. What's more, it kept the engine in it's prime operating RPM range and improved the trap speed as well.
Last edited by skinny z; 09-17-2017 at 08:52 PM.
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Car: 84 TA orig. 305 LG4 "H" E4ME
Engine: 334 SBC - stroked 305 M4ME Q-Jet
Transmission: upgraded 700R4 3200 stall
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 4.10 Posi w Lakewood TA Bars
Re: Torque converter questions
#5
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: Torque converter questions
One thing to understand about converters. You can have 3 different brands side by side. All are the same size and all stall at the same speed but all 3 have different prices.
You do get what you pay for with converters. An inexpensive converter is inexpensive for a reason.
You do get what you pay for with converters. An inexpensive converter is inexpensive for a reason.
#6
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Re: Torque converter questions
Of fact of which I'm acutely aware.
My intention this go around, after breaking the input shaft hub on my last converter (after tens of thousand of miles and possibly the same number of red-line shifts), was to go for the Yank converter that was spec'd for my combination. I've seen back to back drag strip tests between equally stalled but differently branded converters and felt that moving from the TCI to the Yank would be a significant step. All the while keeping the car more street than race. (It didn't turn out the way but at least I did move up a little in converter stall. Still with a TCI though. I'll see how that goes.)
As for the OP, it all depends on what the goals are and the budget. From the sounds of it, the car is a street/weekend warrior and having said that, chances are that a more pedestrian brand of converter (and less expensive) will give the results desired. Maybe even the S10 converter that was alluded to earlier would fill the bill in this case.
My intention this go around, after breaking the input shaft hub on my last converter (after tens of thousand of miles and possibly the same number of red-line shifts), was to go for the Yank converter that was spec'd for my combination. I've seen back to back drag strip tests between equally stalled but differently branded converters and felt that moving from the TCI to the Yank would be a significant step. All the while keeping the car more street than race. (It didn't turn out the way but at least I did move up a little in converter stall. Still with a TCI though. I'll see how that goes.)
As for the OP, it all depends on what the goals are and the budget. From the sounds of it, the car is a street/weekend warrior and having said that, chances are that a more pedestrian brand of converter (and less expensive) will give the results desired. Maybe even the S10 converter that was alluded to earlier would fill the bill in this case.
Last edited by skinny z; 09-18-2017 at 09:24 PM.
#7
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Car: '86 Bird, 96 ImpalaSS, 98 C1500XCab
Engine: LG4, LT1, L31
Transmission: 700R4, 4L60E, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Tors, 4.88 spool, 3.73 Eaton
Re: Torque converter questions
One thing to understand about converters. You can have 3 different brands side by side. All are the same size and all stall at the same speed but all 3 have different prices.
You do get what you pay for with converters. An inexpensive converter is inexpensive for a reason.
You do get what you pay for with converters. An inexpensive converter is inexpensive for a reason.
Spending money on the correct TC for your application is one of the best performance per dollar ratios you will ever apply toward your ride.
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#8
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: Torque converter questions
FYI, My racing converter cost me around $1000. 8" converter with a lot of quality internal parts. I shift at 7400 and the the fallback is around 6400. Stall is supposed to be 6000-6200. My converter is from these guys. http://www.tcsproducts.com/
Stall speed also depends on how much power is being put into the converter. A converter that stalls around 3800 behind a BBC will unlikely stall at that speed if put behind a SBC.
Stall speed also depends on how much power is being put into the converter. A converter that stalls around 3800 behind a BBC will unlikely stall at that speed if put behind a SBC.
#9
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Re: Torque converter questions
One of the interesting things I observed between the off the shelf TCI 10" (advertised as 2000 RPM stall over stock) and the Yank SS3600 was the difference in RPM at the shift points. Particularly the 1-2 shift in the TH700. Whereas the TCI would allow for more than a 2500 RPM split between 1st and 2nd (6500 to less than 4000), data logging showed the Yank converter never let the revs drop below 5000. That was worth an improvement in both ET and trap speed. And I suppose that's why the Yank is nearly double the cost.
You get what you pay for....
You get what you pay for....
#10
Re: Torque converter questions
Go with a Hughes 22-30L. (30 spline input if its the original trans.) It's a 10" with lock-up. You will want the lock-up for street mileage and proper fluid cooling. If you go with out lock-up changes must be made to trans. and input shaft. Have used on several bluids. Works good at track and fine for the street.
Joe
Joe