Urocmyiroc

Hello,
Need advice...

I had a 350 built for the iroc. This is what was installed into the engine:

-Block: 638 casting, 2 bolt main 350 bored .030 over
-Crank: Chevrolet performance cast nodular iron crankshaft #1408852
-Connecting rods: std small block Chevy 3.48 stroke.
-Piston: H423ACP .030+
-Heads: GM Performance Aluminum Cylinder Heads Part # 12367712 "Fast Burn", aluminum, 210cc intake, port, 2.00/1.55 valves, 62cc chamber
-Cam: Chevrolet Performance Hot cam, hydraulic roller camshaft #24502586
-Intake: First TPI intake

The car was tuned and ran great. About 300hp to the wheels with the 5 speed. I was happy with the engine and performance and put about 3k miles on it...

Then the cylinder wall on #1 cracked and hydro locked the engine... damage was as follows: bent the #1 rod, ruined the #1 piston, broke both valves on the same #1 cylinder and chewed up the head a small bit.

Bought another 350... it too had a bent rod #8 cylinder from a head gasket leak. Both engines sat for over a year in the back yard. some of the parts have some rust...

Sooo... basically Now I’m trying to get my car back on the road to have some fun with. I have the virgin 638 350 block from the second engine and all the parts from above from the first engine... I am missing the #1 rod and piston from the first engine. Heads are still there albeit one side will need new valves and valve job on #1 cylinder. I have been told not to buy just one rod and piston as it’s not a part of the set and could weigh different and throw off the balance.

What should I do? Slap one new rod and piston with the head work or buy new set of pistons and rods? Cheap Stroker kit with the 62CC head (compression ratio)? What would you do? The cheaper the better... thanks guys.

Urocmyiroc

Some pics

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

The heads will clean up and live another day, no problem.

The short block is a different matter... while, like anything, it "can be" repaired, that doesn't necessarily mean that that's The Best Thing To DO, let alone A Good Idea. The issue is economic rather than technical: it will cost you more to fix either of those, than it would to just get another one.

Best quickest cheeeeeepest eeeeeeziest least trouble all around most satisfactory course of action would be, head to the junkyard and find a 96-2000 truck motor with cracked heads; change out the main bearings and put in a high-pressure oil pump (the stock one for our cars, don't think it's stock in the trucks though; Melling M-55A); put your pan, cam, timing cover, damper, etc. on it; and just run it.

Urocmyiroc

Thanks, So you’re saying get another block with good internals and just install heads and cam along with all the other accessories to it and drive... interesting!!!

i think I could only go up to a 98 on the trucks because after I’m pretty sure they have 5.3’s or 6.0’s. Anyway, thanks again for the thought.

cardo0

Your options for a GEN I sbc are almost unlimited. A fast fix as mentioned is to find a good short block and bolt on your Fast Burn heads. Or if you have a accurate scale a replacement piston within 10 grams of the original/desired assembly piston will work but any replacement rod will need to have the big end reconditioned.

I'm guessing you have a 2 piece RMS. Myself, I like the L82 and L83 short blocks (found in C3, C4 vetts) as they have complete forged assemblies (w/low compression stock heads) ready for performance upgrades and are frequently removed w/low miles for stroker crate motors. Just search the parts forums on Camaro and Corvette forums.

Good luck and let us know how it works out for you.

Urocmyiroc

Should said this on the first post, engine block in my possession is a one piece rear seal.

I’m heading to the junkyard today and will let you guys know my findings. Thanks again for all the input.

Regards,

Urocmyiroc

Update:

went to the junkyard a few times already. Found two engines that I liked. One had a bent rod and the other had bad detonation and the pistons looked beat up... like chunky peanut butter on the surface. A lot of sweat for nadda... thus far at least. My junkyard is slow to put new inventory. Obviously I have not opened every 350 there.

Went to the the machine shop, block work on my long block costs about 500. Hone/Bore/Deck and replacement of cam bearings.

heads will cost about 300 to bring back; new valves, guides, seats and machine work.

Cam shaft is gone due to pitting from rust.

Only one one of the two cranks work as one is too far rusted. Machine shop will clean up workable one for 100 and will cut .010 under. Machine shop told me that they will balance and rework the new piston/connecting rod combo as long as I supply the replacement piston and rod for 200. He said he would need the exact pistons I have and one rod from the second engine.

Found stroker kits from 650 - 1300.

599: http://www.enginekits.com/stroker-ki...r-kit-1pc.html

~ 1200 http://www.northernautoparts.com/part/ek-ek1803al

Found stock reman crate chevy 350s for 1400. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/f...iABEgImh_D_BwE

Still not sure where the value is...

Urocmyiroc

Btw, friends are urging me to go with a LS swap and forgo the headache of dealing with repair for the parts I have. I on the other hand Really don’t want to throw away money like that (~5k). Just looking for a fun car... don’t really care about so much performance as to make the car a race car.

any more insight is appreciated.

cardo0

Best value IMHO is gonna be a rebuilt motor that you know what parts you put in it. If you can't find a rod that weighs close I don't think you have tried very hard. And on a modest street motor using one oversized piston will never be noticed and sleeving a cylinder at $200 a hole is an option also for just one bad bore.

But there are so, so many good long block motors out there it's very little patience to find one. Just to share when my GEN I LT1 measured one cyl low compression I started shopping for a good core to rebuild - just looking for a rebuildable core. So in just a couple weeks - no more than that - I found a brand new LT1 in the crate sitting in a performance shop across town. Some owner failed to install it for a repower in his car and left it at the shop. I had to at least make an offer of $1300 out the door. The shop just said come pick it up and I can use my credit card too. That motor is in my camaro now will over 100k mi on it.
BTW I found that motor in the parts for sale section of a corvette forum.

Keep looking and good luck.

Jacobaxeman

Best value is doing it slow and learning yourself. Cam bearings are super easy to install. Get another of the same rod, get a gram scale, and read how to properly balance your entire assembly. Our engines, the rods and pistons are the same to the gram; takes a lot of time but is worth it. Have the shop magnaflux the block so down the road it's not cracked without knowing already, then bore and boil and take it home.

Seems to me there is too much dicking around when searching for short blocks. Better off building your own imo, or completely dissemble it when you get one.

if you have one, take a hoan to a cylinder and make sure it's not pitted from rust. The more you do yourself the cheaper it is, and it's fun

Urocmyiroc

Update:

I decided to go LS...

Urocmyiroc

Brought it home with a T56...

no new tires

What motor?

Urocmyiroc

Ls1 from a 02 Camaro.

no new tires

sweet