383 Stroker Build Advice
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Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Philadelphia, PA
Car: '86 Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700r4
383 Stroker Build Advice
So after nearly 10 years of dreaming...I've finally decided to jump back into the car world. I've wanted a third-gen Camaro since high school, and I finally pulled the trigger on one about a month ago. A huge part of that dream is building a motor for it (with the factory carb'd 305, it needs to go). I've searched, read, researched, and searched again.....although there are plenty of threads out there that helped me, I figured why not throw up a thread for my specific situation/goals and start a conversation.
My Goals for the car:
-383 stroker w/ carb. No EFI. Simple power.
-True street/strip. This is my 3rd vehicle. Will see weekend cruises, the occasional ride to the office on a sunny day, and the track 1-2x a month. Garaged in the winter. So things like MPG and DD reliability are irrelevant.
-Must run on pump gas (91-93)
-Close to 400whp running mid 11’s
-THE ABILITY to run a 75-150 shot of nitrous down the road. I know I wont be able to stay away from power adders. Won't go totally nuts but would like the option and to be able to run it safely.
The car itself:
-'86 z28, 74k OG miles
-factory bone stock carb'd 305
-stock 700r4 (will rebuild for more power)
-rear disc option w/ 2.73 posi
Budget: $5k-7k for just the motor. If I can get it done under $5k...well that would be amazing. I will be doing all the work myself and not paying for labor. Starting 100% from scratch - no block, parts, etc. to work with.
I originally thought of taking the easy way out, and going with a crate 383 motor from either Blueprint or ATK - either of which were capable of meeting my goals (including budget), except for possibly the nitrous part. A crate motor isnt ruled out, just concerned that ill put it in and essentially be stuck with no room to make more power (especially with cast internals). Any power-adder ready crate motors are typically too low of a CR too, since they are for blowers/turbos moreso than a modest shot of n02
What I'm looking for help with:
-Head Suggestions - thinking about going with iron vortec's to keep cost down, with the option of upgrading in the future. It would be OK to come in low goal-wise temporarily to get a new motor in there if the heads will keep the cost down considerably. Was also looking at Edlebrock top end kits to take the guesswork out.
-Cam Suggestions
-Rotating assembly suggestions - do I need to go full forged pistons, h-beam rods, and forged crank to run a 150 shot safely and reliably, or is that total overkill?
-Crate motor suggestions
-Any other advice!
Looking forward to chatting with you all about this. Just trying to get a plan together and start getting things priced out. I'd like to get this done within the next year or so.
My Goals for the car:
-383 stroker w/ carb. No EFI. Simple power.
-True street/strip. This is my 3rd vehicle. Will see weekend cruises, the occasional ride to the office on a sunny day, and the track 1-2x a month. Garaged in the winter. So things like MPG and DD reliability are irrelevant.
-Must run on pump gas (91-93)
-Close to 400whp running mid 11’s
-THE ABILITY to run a 75-150 shot of nitrous down the road. I know I wont be able to stay away from power adders. Won't go totally nuts but would like the option and to be able to run it safely.
The car itself:
-'86 z28, 74k OG miles
-factory bone stock carb'd 305
-stock 700r4 (will rebuild for more power)
-rear disc option w/ 2.73 posi
Budget: $5k-7k for just the motor. If I can get it done under $5k...well that would be amazing. I will be doing all the work myself and not paying for labor. Starting 100% from scratch - no block, parts, etc. to work with.
I originally thought of taking the easy way out, and going with a crate 383 motor from either Blueprint or ATK - either of which were capable of meeting my goals (including budget), except for possibly the nitrous part. A crate motor isnt ruled out, just concerned that ill put it in and essentially be stuck with no room to make more power (especially with cast internals). Any power-adder ready crate motors are typically too low of a CR too, since they are for blowers/turbos moreso than a modest shot of n02
What I'm looking for help with:
-Head Suggestions - thinking about going with iron vortec's to keep cost down, with the option of upgrading in the future. It would be OK to come in low goal-wise temporarily to get a new motor in there if the heads will keep the cost down considerably. Was also looking at Edlebrock top end kits to take the guesswork out.
-Cam Suggestions
-Rotating assembly suggestions - do I need to go full forged pistons, h-beam rods, and forged crank to run a 150 shot safely and reliably, or is that total overkill?
-Crate motor suggestions
-Any other advice!
Looking forward to chatting with you all about this. Just trying to get a plan together and start getting things priced out. I'd like to get this done within the next year or so.
Last edited by jm3686; Feb 20, 2018 at 11:26 PM.
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,895
Likes: 429
From: Pittsburgh PA
Car: 89 Iroc-z
Engine: 555 BBC Turbo
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: MWC 9” 3.00
Re: 383 Stroker Build Advice
To do 400 wheel you will need a half decent head. 260-270 cfm. And most heads will cost you atleast 1000 but likely closer to 1200 for decent components. Minimum
You will want a 4 bolt block and preferably a hyd roller block. With nitrous you will need forged crank and h beam rods imo
In the end i think you will need more money to do all this
Need a built trans too
400 who plus 150 shot is a mid 10 sec car
You will want a 4 bolt block and preferably a hyd roller block. With nitrous you will need forged crank and h beam rods imo
In the end i think you will need more money to do all this
Need a built trans too
400 who plus 150 shot is a mid 10 sec car
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 103
Likes: 8
From: SoCal
Car: 97 Z28
Engine: 396 LT1 518whp All Motor
Transmission: 6spd
Axle/Gears: 4.10 LSD
Re: 383 Stroker Build Advice
I would build a fully forged bottom end, that way you could upgrade the top end later and have no worries. A 400 would be best if you could find a cheap block. But 383 or 396 for a 4 bolt 350 block. Remember no replacement for displacement. Keep the compression around 10.5 for pump gas.
Last edited by GOTCHEVY; Feb 25, 2018 at 09:05 PM.
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