Which subframe connectors would you suggest for my 82 z-28, summit has some SSM-1415 weld in for $115.00. How easy are they to install, do any modifications need to be made. Jegs has some no name weldins for $80.00

 

$80 from Jegs gotta be the Compettition Engineering correct? They aren't that bad but you need to fabricate a way to mount them (sort of a way for the square tubbing to mount to the subframe rails that you must weld on). They work just as good as any others I'd think but do require a little more work.

 

I don't know what they are.

 

Well, I can say that I've been very happy with my Spohn Subframe connectors. They run the entire length of the rocker panel and were highly recommended to me. I'd definitely go with weld on though. I hear that the bolt on connectors loosen up with time and don't do as good of a job.

 

I just finished up my SSM subframes last week. They are VERY nice in quality and easy to install. You line them up by placing the rear of the subframe in line with the front LCA bolt hole. A perfect fit is accomplished. Be sure to NOT LET THE BODY BE IN A BIND when you weld them up. Preferedly, use a system to jack up the car by the suspension such as roll-up ramps on all for wheels or a good lift. A mig welder and a grinder are necessary for the job. Use some body caulk and a grinder to make some great factory-appearing seams and use some rubberized coating for the finish. See ya!

 

Hey JMatlock88, I am highly considering getting subframe connectors, some time in the spring. Is Spohn really good? Any other good ones? So what have you noticed from your car that was either better or worse with the subframes? And btw, what exactly do you mean by having the car in a bind, what position would it be in, to be in a bind? How should it be lifted? My bro/bro in law are mechanics, I want to be sure to tell them correctly what to do to not bind my car. Thanks.

 

Spohn has probably the best reputation for innovative designs, high quality construction, and slightly higher prices. These two manufacturers' SFCs are the only two I have seen in person. I think with either set you would be just fine.

The car is so much stiffer (a good thing) that it's not even funny. If I pull up diagonally onto a slop, my back tire will raise off the ground. Try that without subframe connectors...wont happen. The erie creeeeks are gone also. You've now got a great place to jack your car up. The only bad thing about them is that you've just added weight to your car...mine feels slower but it might be my imagination.
What I mean is make sure that you lift the car with all four wheels or by the axle. Make sure it is level. Avoid jacking one side of the car up, doing a subframe, then jacking the other side up. This will tweak up your body, then you'll weld on a subframe connector---then you're car will permanently sit funny. That is a nightmare.

 

http://www.kennybrown.com/fbodysubs.html
they require a mig welder to install.

 

do you think you could use just a regular arc welder to install.

 

the also get stuck to the rocker covers and that is pretty thin. You better be pretty good with an arch welder and use low power.

 

i would forsure not use a arc welder they burn way too cold are give a very weak weld, MIG is the only way to go with something like this/

 

To get the strongest weld would you do a ton of spot welds or a single bead with the MIG? I would think keeping the heat down would make it stronger, but I may be wrong.

 

you'll find that a bunch of small "spot" welds will look uglier than sin, and be TOO cold overall. I just finished installing my subframe connectors. I made and installed them myself. You'll want a full size mig with some good amperage, turned down slightly low. Because of the underside of the car being the dirtiest part, clean your welds good and turn up the shielding gas a bit.

All in all if you dont catch on fire like I did its not to hard to do