1. Took car out of storage and running like it did which was good but could of had more power and timing advanced helped. Timing marks obviously off I had to make them as this is a TPI 350 in a Fiero, So used a TDC stop tool and checked them and they were off and re marked the balancer for TDC. I had to pull the alternator to get at #1 plug, and pulled all plugs. All back together and the distributor was twisted lot so I was going to move it one tooth, before this I fired it and it fired right up and ran it for a couple of seconds to be sure everything was still good. Then I moved it a tooth and started and tried to time it and it wold not idle no matter where I positioned the distributor. Moved it tooth forward and back and just could not get it back to running enough to drive it Had a friend come over as I needed someone to move dist to get it close enough to time and got it tied and running and it is derivable but lopes at idle and will die, then some re starts the starter is laboring like the timing is off. It has the same power it had before all of this but now driveability sucks, stalled at a light and starter labored real hard and battery testing great. Got to be timing I would think..... Or coincidence the starter is bad which was just rebuilt professionally last year and has 5000 miles on it.

 

Also it surges at part throttle steady rpm now and EGR is blocked of.

 

How old is the battery? If over 5 years replace it.

 

Not sure will look at date code it came with car purchased in 2017 but tests good with decent battery tester even after the hard crank so appears to be a timing issue

 

If the engine only has problems idling, I wouldn't waste my time replacing the starter; the idling issue is something else.
Fuel delivery system okay? VATS in these cars tend to poop out and consequently cut off fuel delivery.
It seems like you know what you're doing as far as timing the engine, so I'll assume the timing is okay. If in doubt, try using the variable timing gun's, where you set it on the gun to the timing you want, then just line up TDC and it's good to go.
Check spark plugs to make sure they're nice and clean and getting a healthy spark. Nasty plugs will cause a nasty idle.
Idle air control valve (in EFI engines) can gunk up over time and cause restricted air flow.

Engines only need 4 things to run - F.A.S.T: Fuel, Air, Spark, Timing.

EDIT: Labored starting indicates the engine is advanced too much. It causes the engine to essentially fight itself while starting. Try retarding it 3°.

 

The first tdc test was not right I measured between the two points and marked it, this time used a degree wheel and big difference. Before it looked like 20 degrees off base timing which would be way off from 8 degrees and would not have even started.

 

If the engine struggles to crank, I would take a long hard look at timing.......

 

This was it. I made a mark where it was then just turned the distributor clockwise about an 1/8 inch and it cranked easy fired up and idled.

I just cannot seem to get my timing marks correct. I have a timing marker bracket at about 5 o'clock on the damper so I can use a timing light through the wheel well as there is no other good position with a SBC in a Fiero as the engine is right up against the frame rail.

I used a TDC stop rotated clock wise to the stop and used a degree wheel on the balancer and came up with 15 degrees btdc on the zero mark, then back counter clockwise to the stop then the reading was 85 degrees btdc for a total of 100 degrees then split the difference and marked the balancer at 50 degrees.

The only thing I can think of is I did not start the process as close to TDC I just used a compression gauge and as soon as I saw the compression gauge build pressure while manually turning engine I stopped and put in the TDC tool. It is also difficult to try to tell if I am closer to TDC in #1 because it is tight in this car. Might have to have a 2nd person help with this as it is hard to turn the engine and check this, or I could use a bore scope while turning. Does this even matter if I start the process as close to TDC as possible?

 

It shouldn't matter if you are using a degree wheel. Using the piston stop to find TDC is the correct method for marking the balancer if it's wrong or you need it in another location, etc.

GD

 

That's what I thought, not sure why I cannot run normal timing here. I am using the zero mark on marker and then making a mark on balancer in between the two stops then using 0 on marker when setting timing, not an adjustable marker it is just welded on.

 

You could also measure for TDC with your degree wheel on cylinder #6 if that is easier to work with. #1 and #6 are at TDC at the same time - it's just that one is on the compression stroke while the other is on the exhaust stroke - they are 180 degrees apart, but using either will work the same for finding true TDC.

Are you sure you are using cylinder #1? Where is your timing tab located? It is usually around 2 o'clock when looking at the front of the engine.

 

#6 would be a lot easier to get to here. I am on number 1 for compression which would be the mos forward cylinder and is on drivers side front if it a conventional rear wheel drive. Timing tab is what I need to relocate and the reason for all of this as this is a TPI 350 in a Fiero and you cannot see the timing tab if left in the 2 o'clock position as the engine is right up against the frame.

 

Is it possible that the outer ring of the damper is moving on you?

 

Always a possibility, it is a new damper with about 5,000 miles on it, and I am making my own marks here.

 

A buddy of mine had a new Professional Products damper and the outer ring came off.
BTW, I love cars where a V8 got shoehorned in where it didn't really belong in the first place.
V8 SBC in a Fiero - Hell Yeah!