I just love driving this car too much to sell it yet.

The auto is sapping the fun out of it, and I thought as long as I'm dropping more time, effort, and dough into it for a 5-speed might as well ditch the peanut cam.

I went back to an old thread and the GM 94666492 looks like a great choice for under $100 new. The engine is stock with fresh springs. Since I'm sticking with the stock 1.5 rockers, I think I can run this cam without any mods.

Anyone have experience with this?

Fast355 recommended it:

GM 94666492

Same cam as a Crane 2032 with a much cheaper price tag.
270/276 @ 0.004
214/220 @ .050
.452/.465" LIFT
112 LSA, 108 ICL

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...comp-cams.html

 

At that price, it's probably a flat-tappet, not a roller.

Pass. It is not compatible with the rest of your engine, unless you downgrade other parts.

Get a roller one. Specifically, one SPECIFICALLY designed for TPI, which puts very SPECIFIC requirements on the cam, which SPECIFICALLY eliminate generic cams not SPECIFICALLY intended to work SPEICIFICALLY with TPI from consideration. And, since you're in CA, you need to be particularly careful about passing inspection, as well... no sense taking a risk of spending cubic $$$ and no telling how much time & effort, and turning your car into an undriveable lawn ornament. I'd suggest:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-08-501-8

Replace the springs with AT A BARE MINIMUM whatever the cam mfr recommends, and preferably something better. ALWAYS. "New" is irrelevant; stock, or stock-replacement, springs are inadequate for ANY aftermarket cam. These days one of the best choices for a situation like yours is:

https://www.texas-speed.com/p-1383-l...od-to-550.aspx
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-787-16
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-601-16

You should be able to re-use your existing lifters, as long as they're in good shape. If they need to be replaced I'd suggest these.

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...12499225-Bulk/

You'll also want push rods, but you should order an adjustable one such as https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-9000 and then wait until you have the rest of the motor fully assembled; then use the adjustable to find the length that gives the NARROWEST POSSIBLE sweep of the rocker tip across the valve stem, INDEPENDENT of where it lands on the valve stem. That is, DO NOT try to "center" the pattern; look for the NARROWEST POSSIBLE. Trick Flow push rods at Summit are a good low-$$$ option once you establish the correct length.

 

That cam is very much a roller cam and if you can get your hands on it a better match for TPI than a LT4 Hotcam.

 

Ordered, done. Thanks. I will be slow and careful slipping a new cam into a 30 year old engine with 120,000 miles. If I had a clearer plan to start with I could have done it when I did the timing set and valve stem seals but oh well. From what I've read, I think it will be well worth it with a nice tune and help then engine pull through some higher revs. Back in I dive!

 

It should work great, once tuned

 

I put the old slp cam in my 91 tpi 305 5 speed years ago, like early to mid 90s and it was about that same size. 214/224. I don't remember the lift. it was a direct slide in, I will say do valve springs. I first did it without and gained nothing from racing friends that we all knew exactly how each other's car ran, after the springs, it picked up about a car and a half. as for 1/4 mile it went from 98mph to just breaking 100. this is all non tuned, as wide band was something almost no one had heard of back then haha and non of us had money for. you just bought chips and they all were crap, so we just went with it. car ran great, if I didn't tell you, you wouldn't even know a cam was in it.


just a quick edit. you won't need to go down the rabbit hole of spending 300$ on valve hardware like above. this still will be shifted about 5300 with the manual to run best times, I don't remember the part number, but I called up summit, told them I had and they sent me some drop in replacements. the lift and stuff of this cam was fine for clearances, I used the stock retailers and stuff too, I did do new valve seals from a auto parts store while in there that stopped the smoke on startup. I have a feeling it's just that the 100k springs are dead, cause the new ones weren't much over stock. and again, my cam didn't really change the shift points must if any of what I found best. car still ran best at the track if short shifted just under 5500 no matter what combo I had. even later when I tried some trick flows on the 305. mostly because of the comp from the 64cc but those did basically nothing till I build a 350 for it. but even then the stock intake never locked any rpm to make expensive springs worth it to me.

well now that I think of that, I just had a valve job done and was talking to the owners son and he said he's got a set if the old corvette alum 58cc 113s setting on a shelf because no one used that stuff anymore. while you're in there, might be a nice upgrade too. it was just a off hand comment and I don't know the guy so eh, just a thought. but I do have a phone number to the place if you wanted it. might be interesting to see how that worked out if you do plain on dyno tuning it for the numbers.

 

Thanks. I'm hoping for great things. I remember back in my Foxbody days, I would go back and forth with the T5 and auto. The auto was nice in LA's traffic but it sure made the car a lot less fun. I think this is the case today as well.