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Popping noise when I turn

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Old Jan 11, 2002 | 02:24 PM
  #1  
grafx's Avatar
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From: So. California
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: Pro-Built Automatic/Vigilante 2800
Popping noise when I turn

When I make turns in my car it makes a popping noise. below is a list of parts that I have replaced fairly recently. What could be causing this noise? I only notice it when going relativly slow like when pulling into a parking space making sharp turns. Sometimes I'll be turning the steering wheel all the way to the side and it will sort of feel like it hits a hard spot then I apply a little more effort and it will make the popping noise.


-ball joints
-struts
-rubber bushings with poly
-idler arm & center link
-swaybar mounts and end-links
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Old Jan 11, 2002 | 08:53 PM
  #2  
ws6transam's Avatar
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From: Haslett, MI
Car: 1984 Trans Am WS6
Engine: Minirammed 385, 396 RWHP
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Moser 12-bolt
Try replacing the upper strut mount. They wear out on occasion. Also check your frame around the steering box for cracks. Some Fbody chassis will fatigue at this point.
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Old Jan 11, 2002 | 09:16 PM
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No4NJunk's Avatar
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From: Greenville S.C.
Car: 87 Grand National
Engine: 3.8 SFI Turbo
Transmission: BRF 200R4
could be cracked outer tie rod.
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Old Jan 12, 2002 | 02:43 AM
  #4  
Jza's Avatar
Jza
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From: Tulsa, OK
In my experiences, it's usually the ball joints, or the brake pads sliding around in the caliper.
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Old Jan 12, 2002 | 10:39 AM
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ws6transam's Avatar
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From: Haslett, MI
Car: 1984 Trans Am WS6
Engine: Minirammed 385, 396 RWHP
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Moser 12-bolt
Originally posted by Jza
In my experiences, it's usually the ball joints, or the brake pads sliding around in the caliper.
He already replaced the ball joints. In addition, the noise is being "felt" through the wheel. That is probably not caused by brake pads. If its being felt through the wheel, Its probably suspension related. Maybe a really bad tie rod end, but I think its more likely to be something near the steering box, or else up on the strut mount. Those two will be felt through the wheel. If he's already replaced the centerlink, then he's probably looked over the tie rod ends enough to see the one that's completely rooted out enough to 'pop'.
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Old Jan 12, 2002 | 07:25 PM
  #6  
jasman19's Avatar
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From: Vancouver, Wa
Car: RED 1986 IROC-Z28
Engine: 350 5.7L
Transmission: TH 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 10 Bolt
the same thing is happening to mine and I thought that the tire was rubbing against something. I have changed the tie rod ends and the idler arm. Still does it though. I am not sure what the deal is either. I looked for something broke or lose but have seen nothing.
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Old Jan 12, 2002 | 09:39 PM
  #7  
Jza's Avatar
Jza
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From: Tulsa, OK
Check the torque on the bolt that clamps down the steering shaft to the steering stub. If it's loose enough, it can jump a spline, making a popping noise. It won't spin on the shaft, because there's a flatside, but there's enough to jump one tooth. Just another idea for you to check.

He already replaced the ball joints.
Yes, I saw that.. I just mentioned that in my experiences, those are the two usual culprits of popping from the front suspension.
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Old Jan 12, 2002 | 11:21 PM
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CrazyRob75's Avatar
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From: WPG MB Canada
sounds exactly like a cracked frame behind the steering box. Does your steering also kinda feel sloppy at speed? Also, during a max effort brake stop, does the car sometimes take off to one side?
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Old Jan 13, 2002 | 03:22 AM
  #9  
Joel Geerling's Avatar
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From: Saint Louis, MO, USA
Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
I had this same problem, then found some GM service article a while back that said to get out your grease gun and lube one of the joints...

wait, here's the service bulletin:

STEERING STOP CRUNCH NOISE
Bulletin no. 233301, dated 3/92. Some 1990-91 Firebird models may make a noise from the front of the vehicle during full right or left turning maneuvers that is referred to as steering stop crunch. The crunching noise is caused by movement of the lower control arm steering stops on the steering knuckles during full turn type maneuvers.

The fix is to apply a thin film (approximately 1 mm thick) of high temperature water-resistant grease (P/N 12345996 or equivalent) to the contacting surfaces of both the steering stops and steering knuckles.

I hope this helps - a generous dose of grease into all joints completely solved this problem for me!
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Old Jan 14, 2002 | 01:39 PM
  #10  
grafx's Avatar
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From: So. California
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: Pro-Built Automatic/Vigilante 2800
Hey Joel,

This sounds like it may be it. If this bulliten was for the firebirds would it also be for the Camaro's? Where exactly would I have to apply the grease? I'm not sure where the steering stops are located.
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Old Jan 14, 2002 | 01:49 PM
  #11  
chevyboy07 91's Avatar
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From: down by the river
yeah, I was just gonna say that LOL...anyway, the steering stops look like little "tabs" maybee 2"X2" right next to the tire (looking from under the car). Just grease that "tab" and the part of the likages that would hit it in a full turn, and you will be OK.....Jimmy's are NOTORIUOS for the same problem!
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Old Jan 14, 2002 | 01:53 PM
  #12  
grafx's Avatar
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From: So. California
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: Pro-Built Automatic/Vigilante 2800
I think I know where they are now, on the control arm right?
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Old Jan 14, 2002 | 02:45 PM
  #13  
Corry's Avatar
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From: Fairfax, VA
Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt SLP Torsen, 3.73 ratio
Hey just out of curiosity, where would the frame crack be? Any pix/detailed description would be appreciated....I have an 87 that makes the crunching noise, and sometimes pulls under hard braking....Just want to make sure my car is ok. If it is the frame crack, is there a fix? Is there an "upgrade" to make that section stronger?
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Old Jan 14, 2002 | 02:53 PM
  #14  
grafx's Avatar
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From: So. California
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: Pro-Built Automatic/Vigilante 2800
I haven't found any frame cracks yet I'll get under it today and look around, If I don't see any cracks then hopefully by greasing the steering stops I'll be able to eliminate the popping sounds. I'll keep you all informed.

As far as strengthening the front frame, a wonderbar will do this. I plan on purchasing one from Global West, they are like 15 minutes from my house. They were out of stock last week so I'll call them again today.
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Old Jan 14, 2002 | 08:04 PM
  #15  
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From: WPG MB Canada
the frame cracking is a common problem. its usually in between the gearbox and the frame right where the bolt holes are. Have a buddy turn your steering wheel lock to lock and and look under the hood at your steering box. Is it moving? is the frame flexing with the gearbox? Pretty much the only way to fix it is to weld the cracks. If you want to prevent it from reoccuring, add a wonderbar. Mine got so bad that i could move the dr. framerail by hand. Occasionally under braking the frt. wheels would flap back and forth violently bouncing the car up and down. On one occasion a buddy of mine wasgoing the opposite way from me in traffic, we both saw each other so i hit the brakes to turn around and oof course the car started hopping like mad. By the time i was turned around, he had gotten out of his car and had run to about half a block back where i was. He looks at me " You ok?, looked like your wheel was falling off". All this trouble was caused by the frame rails moving in and out screwing up the suspension geometry BIGTIME. So my point is, i highly doubt yours will be as bad as mine, so

1. weld your cracks, that will cure the popping
2. Get the wonderbar to prevent any further damage or shimmying or hopping like me
3. drive your car and don't worry about it

If mine can still live with the extra 200 pounds of a 454 and an S10 manual gearbox, yours will do just fine

sorry for the long post, just sharing my experience
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