scrapped the 383 plans, now on 395 biuldup
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 2,149
Likes: 4
From: Mims, Florida
Car: '87 IROCZ
Engine: 395 ZZ4
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.70s
scrapped the 383 plans, now on 395 biuldup
I was thinking of getting a 383 stroker kit for my '87 L98 engine. But then I reviewed the series of articles about "Thunderchicken" in GM High-Tech magazines. They are biulding a TPI 396 stroker (Actually, I think it calculates out to be a 395) with the SuperRam.
I have found some interesting stuff here. I figure that if I have to prep, bore, and clearance the block for a 383, why not biuld a 395.
So, I am looking at buying an Eagle 4340 forged 3.875" stroke crankshaft, Lunati ProMod rods 5.85" or 6.0", and SRP 1.062" compression ht pistons part# 144995 (if 6.0" rods).
I have 24# SVO injectors already along with the complete Accel Superram intake TPI stuff.
Other stuff I may need:
26# injectors (or maybe 30#) ?????
58mm TB
hand port my AFR 190s out to about 200cc
ECM ???? stay with GM MAF and burn my own OR Accel DFI ????
What do you think????????????
Does anyone have any comments????????????
TIA
Doc
I have found some interesting stuff here. I figure that if I have to prep, bore, and clearance the block for a 383, why not biuld a 395.
So, I am looking at buying an Eagle 4340 forged 3.875" stroke crankshaft, Lunati ProMod rods 5.85" or 6.0", and SRP 1.062" compression ht pistons part# 144995 (if 6.0" rods).
I have 24# SVO injectors already along with the complete Accel Superram intake TPI stuff.
Other stuff I may need:
26# injectors (or maybe 30#) ?????
58mm TB
hand port my AFR 190s out to about 200cc
ECM ???? stay with GM MAF and burn my own OR Accel DFI ????
What do you think????????????
Does anyone have any comments????????????
TIA
Doc
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 1,443
Likes: 0
From: College Station, Tex USA
Car: 89rs
Engine: 400Sb
Transmission: Tremec 3550
be prepared to do a lot of block grinding
You also have to make sure those rods are stroker clearanced ( don't think they are normally). The 396 LT1s I have seen (check the lt1 forum at camaroz28.com) don't really make much more torque or Hp than 383s.
The stoutest one I saw was in an Impala SS that ran 12s and made like 400 rwhp on the mti dynojet..
They are torque motors (just like 383s) and people try to rev them like 283s.
PS, I really don't like using pistons that have compression heights below about 1.85 inch. Compresses the rings in too small an area in my opinion.
The stoutest one I saw was in an Impala SS that ran 12s and made like 400 rwhp on the mti dynojet..
They are torque motors (just like 383s) and people try to rev them like 283s.
PS, I really don't like using pistons that have compression heights below about 1.85 inch. Compresses the rings in too small an area in my opinion.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 2,149
Likes: 4
From: Mims, Florida
Car: '87 IROCZ
Engine: 395 ZZ4
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.70s
These pistons come with some kind of a locking pin system when the wrist pin whole is in the oil rings. I hope that I will be OK.
About 383 vs 395, as I stated before, the cost to me will be almost the same either way I go.
Also, I did not address the cam issue. I have a ZZ9 cam which seems pretty good, but it may not the best for a 395. With my 700R4 tranny, it shifts at 5200rpm. So a cam which peeks at 5200rpm would be best, IMO. ?????????????
About 383 vs 395, as I stated before, the cost to me will be almost the same either way I go.
Also, I did not address the cam issue. I have a ZZ9 cam which seems pretty good, but it may not the best for a 395. With my 700R4 tranny, it shifts at 5200rpm. So a cam which peeks at 5200rpm would be best, IMO. ?????????????
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 1,443
Likes: 0
From: College Station, Tex USA
Car: 89rs
Engine: 400Sb
Transmission: Tremec 3550
granted cost wise it can be a toss up
but depending on what you want to do with it (like some type of artifical aspiration), one might be the better choice. The ring support will address the problem, but, you want to minimize the reliance on them. Like by going a 5.85 inch rod on a 3.875 stroke and keeping the 6inch for the 3.75.
You also going to have a whole lot of low end (the stroke will only increase it) and when combined with the 3.08 first gear of a 700R4, you will need good traction. A 383 will minimize that wheelspin problem a little.
I think the ZZ9 is a pretty good grind. Some people in the lt1 world hate it.. but I really think it needs 1.6 rockers on the intake. Especially on a stroker.
And as far as shift points go, you want to put the motor at the rpm of torque peak after the shift. For a 383-396 with a ZZ9 cam thats probably about 4200rpm depending on your intake. So, you probably want to run first gear to 5800 at least and second to something closer to 5500 (it will depend on your converter slip)
You also going to have a whole lot of low end (the stroke will only increase it) and when combined with the 3.08 first gear of a 700R4, you will need good traction. A 383 will minimize that wheelspin problem a little.
I think the ZZ9 is a pretty good grind. Some people in the lt1 world hate it.. but I really think it needs 1.6 rockers on the intake. Especially on a stroker.
And as far as shift points go, you want to put the motor at the rpm of torque peak after the shift. For a 383-396 with a ZZ9 cam thats probably about 4200rpm depending on your intake. So, you probably want to run first gear to 5800 at least and second to something closer to 5500 (it will depend on your converter slip)
Last edited by jcb999; Jan 11, 2002 at 07:56 PM.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 2,149
Likes: 4
From: Mims, Florida
Car: '87 IROCZ
Engine: 395 ZZ4
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.70s
jcb999,
Thank you for your interest here.
Every point you made, I agree with completely.
I have been leaning toward the 5.85" rod which I believe will result in a piston compression heigth which does Not have a ring problem.
As far as the tranny is concerned, the 3000 stall Art Carr TC when shifting to the next gear drops to 4200rpm on the engine. I will run the car on a chassis dyno and see where the peak torque is and maybe decide on a different stall speed.
I will be running MT ET Streets at the dragstrip and Kumho V700 tires on the street to get the grip that I will need.
Also, I have 1.6 roller tip rockers in a box. Putting the 1.6 ratio on the intake side is a very good idea.
And I should make a correction to my first post, it's not the Thunderchichen project at GM High Tech, it is called the Magnum TPI project.
Doc
Thank you for your interest here.
Every point you made, I agree with completely.
I have been leaning toward the 5.85" rod which I believe will result in a piston compression heigth which does Not have a ring problem.
As far as the tranny is concerned, the 3000 stall Art Carr TC when shifting to the next gear drops to 4200rpm on the engine. I will run the car on a chassis dyno and see where the peak torque is and maybe decide on a different stall speed.
I will be running MT ET Streets at the dragstrip and Kumho V700 tires on the street to get the grip that I will need.
Also, I have 1.6 roller tip rockers in a box. Putting the 1.6 ratio on the intake side is a very good idea.
And I should make a correction to my first post, it's not the Thunderchichen project at GM High Tech, it is called the Magnum TPI project.
Doc
i think its not really worth it, for a car anyhow that much stroke your really going to need to do alot of clearancing with the oil pan and all that fun stuff, also its not going to want to revv, it will make alot of torque, but probey just OK in the HP area, this would make a great 4x4 or tractor pull engine but for a race or street car i would stick 383 or go 400
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