what besides a normal tune up can keep my ccc car running rich?
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Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 673
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From: Northern California
Car: 1992 Camaro Z28 & 2k3 Cadillac CTS
Engine: LB9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3:43
what besides a normal tune up can keep my ccc car running rich?
o.k. this is totally rediculous, my Lg4 is sucking down gas like theres no tomorrow. I get about 10 miles per gallon, which i think is totally unreasonable. My mods are listed below, and i tuned my car up completely including: plugs, wires, cap, rotor, msd 6a, motor oil, choke thermostat pulloff, egr valve and the cts switch in both the coolant crossover, and the driver side head. I notice two things with my car, it smells really rich from behind (i always thought that was just how our cars smelled without a cat) and that the coolant temperature gauge is always pegged up. If i tap the gauge cluster with something hard the needle will drop down and act like theres a lot of tension in it (wobbles down extremely fast, and makes really fast movements, and reads about 60 degrees more then it actually is). The thing is, i replaced my coolant temp sensor in the driver side head and it was of a different design (i went all over town looking for a month, and came up with the conclusion that this sensor was universal). Could this be causing my problem? I am thinking it doesnt cuz i hear that it only controls the gauge and nothing else. If anyone can help me out, that would be great
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 5,183
Likes: 42
From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
The gauge problem is most likely unrelated. I'd look into setting up the carb, although I've not messed with a CC carb, there's some electrical setups you need to do...quick trip to the carb board may get you some info.
O2 sensor will affect milage. Might be worth a change if it's been more than 25-30K miles.
You may need to have it checked to make sure the ECM is advancing the timing as well. Assuming the exhaust is not clogged anywhere you may want to do a compression test to see what kinda shape the engine is in.
Have you verified the plug wire routing is correct to each plug? Go by the firing order on the intake, and work your way around the cap to be sure.
O2 sensor will affect milage. Might be worth a change if it's been more than 25-30K miles.
You may need to have it checked to make sure the ECM is advancing the timing as well. Assuming the exhaust is not clogged anywhere you may want to do a compression test to see what kinda shape the engine is in.
Have you verified the plug wire routing is correct to each plug? Go by the firing order on the intake, and work your way around the cap to be sure.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 673
Likes: 0
From: Northern California
Car: 1992 Camaro Z28 & 2k3 Cadillac CTS
Engine: LB9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3:43
im not sure if it really matters at all, but my car runs low 15's at the moment and doesnt really seem to be burning much oil if any. could my engine still be in bad shape compression wise and still be quick?
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
More than likely, it has the usual fuel bowl plug leak...
Take the carb off, take out the 2 rearmost air horn screws, turn it upside down, take out the 3 throttle plate screws. You will see 2 "tower" looking blobs of metal in front of the primaries. There are 4 spun-in plugs in holes about 1/8" diameter up there. They always leak. They have manifold vacuum on the bottom of them (big suction) and the fuel bowl right above them. Gasoline gets drawn directly into the manifold around them. Another symptom of their problem is if the car will crank right up when warm, but has to spin for 5 or 6 seconds when cold; this indicates that all the fuel dripped out of the carb into the manifold, and you're having to pump more fuel into it.
Wire brush the plugs until they are clean metal, sand them, lacquer thinner them until they are as free of any dirt as possible, and epoxy them over. Put it back together and see if it made any difference, then go from there.
Take the carb off, take out the 2 rearmost air horn screws, turn it upside down, take out the 3 throttle plate screws. You will see 2 "tower" looking blobs of metal in front of the primaries. There are 4 spun-in plugs in holes about 1/8" diameter up there. They always leak. They have manifold vacuum on the bottom of them (big suction) and the fuel bowl right above them. Gasoline gets drawn directly into the manifold around them. Another symptom of their problem is if the car will crank right up when warm, but has to spin for 5 or 6 seconds when cold; this indicates that all the fuel dripped out of the carb into the manifold, and you're having to pump more fuel into it.
Wire brush the plugs until they are clean metal, sand them, lacquer thinner them until they are as free of any dirt as possible, and epoxy them over. Put it back together and see if it made any difference, then go from there.
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Aug 8, 2015 08:16 PM




Carb board be damned!!! 