Welp, I guess this ThirdGen prefers killing batteries and not ICM's . Came out to make a food run, battery was so dead the starter wouldn't even click. Ran in, grabbed the DMM... 10.7V. Now, I really need someone to explain if I posted a time stamped pic of the car running, the battery was obviously strong enough to start it how in mere hours did it drop to 10.7V???? Put it on 10A quick charge... 15 min later 12.76V... did it start hell no, so 12V with no cranking power... nice

Is it the CCA or 12V that matters?
Could it be this Econo Power (Refurb Interstate) battery, in terms of a dead cell?
What can KILL a battery dead and not show on a parasitic draw test?
Since the drain was 1st based on OPS connector, could the OPS itself be bad? If it was drawing pwr one would think it'd show in testing?
Do I need to replace the starter (excessive current draw)? Battery & Alternator? All 3 at once?

 

I've had a really bad time lately with a specific brand of battery which private labels for a lot of retailers.

I've had two instances of batteries in different vehicles which would not crank an engine at over 9.5V when hot, but completely normal-ish after cooling down the engine compartment for about 30 minutes. No charger connected, just cooling period, and they are NOT the AGM type batteries which are known to fail quickly from heat. One of those in an Envoy also contributed to the roasting of the alternator.

Another was "6-year" battery in my Trans Am which could not hold charge after 15 months, It's "free replacement" of the same type also is losing capacity after about 18 months.

Another was a "premium" battery in a Chevy van which would not maintain charge without a float but when charged would crank the engine just fine.

I'm hesitant to mention the manufacturer, but I've never had these kinds of problems with Johnson Controls batteries.

 

Here we are again, here's a timeline of the last 16hrs. Pulled battery, charged to full, connected and started her up. Let her run in the driveway for a bit, while running into Harbor Freight for a bit, also let her run while hitting the Gas Station and stopping for pizza for a total of over 1hr run time. I checked voltage when I got home... 12.7V. I cut grass for about 2.5hrs, checked voltage... 12.5... figured surface charge just bleeding off so I went to bed. While on break this morning I ran out to check voltage... 10.6V, pulled battery again and put on the charger but I need a new approach because something is killing this mug DEAD in in mere hours and the Parasitic Draw test led me to the OPS Connector originally but after a replacement pigtail the Parasitic Draw test was 0.00Ma draw? I can't even drive it without fear of shutoff & no-start because the car has an electricity sweet tooth .

 

OK, on lunch at work, verified Battery at FULL charge. Connected up the DMM as in the Ratchets & Wrenches YT Vid... BOOM blasted 0.47ma draw. Removed the In-Line Fuse right there... instant 0.01ma. Went to unplug the OPS and it dropped to 0.30ma draw. WHILE the OPS is connected if harness is jiggled the draw only fluctuates 0.001ma BUT if I unplug the OPS the draw vanishes like I pulled the in-line fuse. At this point would it be reasonable to conclude the OPS might have shorted contacts or something? I'm asking because it's far cheaper to toss a OPS vs Starter/Battery/Alt combo at the car lol

 

And then I stumbled upon this...

 

Hi Ed, I just noticed your still having problems, so I just wanted to affirm that I have run into an oil pressure switch that failed in the exact way you suspect your's has. I actually went so far as to open the failed switch and found that it had leaked oil into the switch contacts, and the oil appeared to have gummed up the switch enough that it couldn't fully break the circuit when it was supposed to. Since you've already replaced the connector, and you say wiggling the connector makes the current draw change, Hell yeah replace that switch and I'll bet your issue will be solved

 

Ordered new Standard Motor Products PS228 Oil Pressure Switch & Performance Tool OPS Socket with Amazon Prime One Day Delivery, they arrived today, the install was painless and damnit let the DMM say the rest... Yes that's with the new OPS installed and connected, it kind of rapidly fluctuates between 0.00ma and 0.01ma draw.


I'm stoked, and hope this finally fixes it because its been a nightmare lol.

 

Looks promising

 

Try connecting to the mA jack instead of the A jack. The shunt in the meter is drastically different, and may not be providing a correct meter indication.