Hey guys, Im back again. So I've got an 82 LG4 carbed bird with a few mods. Hooker headers and Y pipe, medium cam, open element air cleaner, 3" catback. So I got the car back home, was running like crap. I forgot the ECM wire was unplugged so i simply reconnected it and it fixed the rich running issue. Car ran and drove fine, just felt slow. Then one day I pulled it out of the garage and something was definitely wrong. Found an arcing (burnt) plug wire. Fixed that and the car seemed to gain a TON of power and throttle response. Put a smile on my face to drive it. Then a few days later I pulled it back out again to work on it, was back down on throttle response and power to where it was before. Found a plug boot with a pinhole in it, fixed that and it made no difference. Car is still down on power and isnt fun to drive at all. In this period of time the carb, ignition, and sensors have NOT been messed with or changed. Distributor did not get bumped. Why would it lose power? Planning on replacing all the plug wires tomorrow but have no other ideas. Btw the plugs are all brand new, pulled one out and they are fine, actually a bit lean. But the fuel mixture hasnt changed this whole time so it isnt related. Will fix that issue after I get my power back.

 

I would start with replacing all of the plug wires and cap/rotor. Make sure the wires are routed so they are away from the headers.

 

Got any recommendations for plug wires? Was looking at the NAPA belden ones. My cap and rotor actually look to be in good shape but thatll be the next step for sure

 

For stock replacement type plug wires that work with headers, some of the guys on this board recommend Borg Warner CH8833 for 87-95 Chevy Truck. I plan to use them for my build, but I’m not at that point yet, so no first hand experience.

You could go with one of the aftermarket sets as well, just make sure it has all 90 degree boots.

 

My opinion on wires is spend a few extra bucks on Accel Super Stocks or similar. They're say $40ish but at the same time they are way less susceptible to burning in my experience. I never had good luck with OE wires in that regard.

 

I looked around for those and couldnt find them. I went on NAPAs website and I've narrowed it down to 3 choices; Belden Professional (dont give a heat rating but are in store), Belden High Performance (they are called stage 3 and supposedly resist 500 degree underhood temps), and some NGK wires. Not sure which ones to pick, the professionals I could go pick up today but I dont know the heat rating.

 

My local auto parts stores dont have those, but NAPA brand makes some stage 3 race wires that are supposed to be able to resist 500 degrees underhood temps. They also have Belden Professionals in stock ( could go get today), or NGKs that I'd have to order as well. I am looking at wires for a 1980 camaro since the boots are all right angle... What do you think of those choices, NAPA professional ( in stock today) , NAPA stage 3 race (have to order) or NGKs (have to order), the virus has slowed shipping so ordering from them is the fastest

 

Honestly, I don't think it makes all that much difference. Use good wire looms (make sure they fit whatever size wire you get) and keep the wires away from the headers.

 

I found some Accel Super stock wires at another parts store I think I could go pick up today, do you think those would be any more burn resistant than the Beldens? They cost about $15 more than the NAPAs without a resistance rating.

 

I don't really know which would be, but really if any wire touches the header, it's going to burn. Don't stress over it. Accel Super Stock will work fine.

 

I got and installed the super stocks, and found out I had the ends backwards... WTF, why would they not have a diagram or something I just wasted and hour. I put the red ends on the distributor and they were supposed to go to the plugs. Makes me so mad. How did all you guys know the red ends go to the plugs? Literally nowhere does it say on the box or online or anything

 

I used those quite a while ago, but the ones I used had both straight boots and 90 degree boots, so it was obvious which ends were for the distributor cap. I can see making that mistake with both ends having 90 degree boots. I've done my share of mistakes and will do it again. Most around here can probably say the same.

 

haha thanks for making me feel better, the car runs and idles better than ever, was a bit cold today (like 35F) and it didn’t like idling at first but that’s my lean issue at play.