Anybody know any websites or places I can go to find the technical specifications on any given engine? I don't need generic stuff like HP and Trq ratings, I need the nitty gritty stuff like static/dynamic compression ratio, piston/compression chamber volume, cam profile... stuff like that. I just need to know what I'm working with before I get started on a build.

Otherwise, if anybody just happens to have an idea on what the specifications are off the top of their heads because they're some kind of guru, here's what I've got...

5.7L SBC out of a 1987 Caprice 9C1. I'm pulling the engine out of my old Cruiser to put into my '84 Firebird. Even if I only get the piston or combustion chamber volume and the compression ratio, that'd be a big help!

 

It really doesn't matter does it? You will have to select your parts based on the machining requirements, which will only be known once you tear it down. At the end of the day it's a roller cam 350. If you are building for performance you will want different cam at the very least and probably different heads. Compression ratio is going to depend on what you pick, and if you are using stock heads and pistons then "it is what it is" and all you can really do is deck the block and choose a head gasket to maximize the quench - compression will just be whatever it is unless you modify the heads. Since the stock deck height varies (even within the same engine as-built from GM), you will want to line hone and deck the block to your preference of deck height. I like my pistons 0.025" in the hole and a 0.015 MLS gasket to get the ideal quench and keep the gasket as thin as possible - and also to retain as much material in the block as I can in case I need to do machine work down the line.

GD

 

True for most of that, however knowing the piston volume would be pretty helpful when determining which head to use.

I know things don't always go according to plan, but I've had the car for 20+ years, the engine is as solid as a rock, 140K never abused, runs really well actually. Only problem is that it's set up for a B-Body and that B-Body has an undercarriage that looks like the Titanic after Robert Ballard found it. It's got Flintstone floors. So the plan is to pull the engine, clean it up, tear it down, but no major machine work... so no cutting the deck, maybe doing a quick hone job rim ream if it needs it, new seals, gaskets, bearings, piston rings etc etc... just freshen it up and make sure it's good for another 200K+ miles. So that means I'll be reusing the stock rotating assembly with the factory deck height, factory piston depth, probably will use factory replacement (or equivalent) thickness head gaskets etc etc.

So yeah... stock piston volume would be the very least I'd need really if I want to know what compression ratio I'm gonna end with since I'm changing the heads.

 

I think those had #193 swirl port heads fed by a Quadrajet,dished pistons for~8.6 CR,roller cam.

 

Sounds about right... if I get the head number now that I know the Compression ratio, I might be able to find out the size of the combustion chamber, and with that an idea of how much volume those dish pistons had. If they're dished... I'd guess maybe anywhere between 5-12cc? At most maybe 20? If they're dished then that might actually be perfect.

 

There's problems with doing that. It all sounds good on paper till you find out that GM doesn't use a single matched set of bearings in a small block. They use whatever bearing will give them the clearance they desire on THAT SPECIFIC journal. So when you open it up and find there's a bunch of weird bearings in there - it's because they don't line hone the blocks. They just bore them and send it. With the assembler responsible for picking the bearing inserts that will live at each journal.

Being it's from a q-jet or fuel injected car, you are unlikely to run into any cylinder wall problems. I highly recommend you leave the cylinder walls COMPLETELY alone. New rings, properly gapped, and install them. Do not touch the walls with any crude honing instruments

I would however, line hone it, turn the crank, and fit it with new bearings - same with the cam line. And then deck the block and heads leaving the pistons 25 in the hole. Some like to zero-deck every block they see but personally I don't like how that leaves no where to really go if you need to machine anything later.....

GD

 

Good call. Well, in that case I'm sure it won't break the bank to bring it to a machine shop and have them figure out what size bearings to use... maybe even have them install the rotating assembly and cam bearings.

I mean... I probably should bring it there anyway just to get it hot tanked and checked out just to make sure there's nothing weird going on. I'm sure it'll be 100% fine but you never know.