Looking at building a 383 TPI stroker for my 1987 Camaro 5.0 TPI automatic.

I got a vortec 350 motor from the junkyard to rebuild. I will have the cylinders bored 0.030" over, new cam bearings and expansion plugs installed.

The cost to machine the stock crank and brush the rods and get bearings is about half that of a complete cast stroker kit. So might as well do the stroker.

I have another thread where we were discussing vortec heads vs. ebay vs. afr cast heads. New heads won't cost much more than machining the vortecs and finding a vortec base plate. So I will be going with either AFR cast heads or bare ebay aluminum heads, as I have all parts to build the heads other than valves.

Here is were things get funny. I don't want to make as much power as I can, but with a 383 and aluminum heads that will probably be hard to do.

I would guess I would have to under cam it to stay around 400 HP?

I will be using stock TPI base, runners and upper. I may cut and tig weld the runners into a Siamese design for slightly more RPM ~5000 or so.

What are some mild 383 combos? What roller cam would provide the best results with these goals?

 

I had a 383 TPI setup with vortec 062 heads and a better flowing intake than stock (SD base, AS&M runners, etc). Unknown cam but I doubt it made any where near 400 HP. Probably closer to 325 HP/375 TQ at the flywheel. The TPI stops making power at like 4,500 RPM...

 

Dont need to undercam it necessarily just cam it right. If you do aluminum heads do a dish piston that gives 9.8-10:1 max. Throw in something around 216-220 deg at .050. Stock base and runner will limit hp as it is so no worries there.

 

Don't bother with making it a 383. You can easily make 400 HP with the stock Vortec rotating assembly.

Don't bore it unless necessary. Don't hone it unless you bore it. If the cylinder walls look good run them as-is. Removing material and forcing another break in only weakens the block.

DO align hone the main line and setup the block for a single set of standard bearings. Polish the crank, and deck the block - but don't remove material and unnecessarily weaken the block or prevent future machine work should it be required.

Just install some AFR heads on the stock rotating assembly. With a decent cam you will make more than 400 HP easily. No reason to bother with stroking it and all that BS. With TPI you will be manifold limited and heavy on low end torque so there's no reason to spend the money on a rotating assembly that's only going to increase low end torque - you will annihilate tires and have no top end with the stock TPI anyway. The stock PM rods and stock crank will be just fine.

GD

 

Got the 350 vortec apart today. It sat with some water in the #5 cylinder. I think it will defiantly need a bore .030" over. It looks bad but doesn't look pitted but there is enough surface rust the piston stops when turning it over to that spot. Its too bad because all the other cylinders look great still, nice visible crosshatching.

If staying 350 would it be silly to bore just one cylinder if the others check out fine?

I haven't taken the pistons/rods/crank out yet. Too late in the day and too tired.

 

I built a 383 TPI, and if I were to do it again, I'd stay 350, assuming I was keeping the TPI. I'd rather stretch the power band out a little. That being said, I was running an extremely modified set of SLP runners, modded plenum and heavily ported base. RHS Pro Action 180's and a Voodoo cam just a little bigger than the LT4Hotcam, but certainly nothing extreme. It was fun, and ran great, but it wasn't worth the stroker.

 

I kick myself every time I look at my engine for leaving my extremely siamesed and extrude hone ported SLP runners on my last Camaro I sold. Those made the tpi breath to 6000 rpms

 

I would run a light hone through that cylinder and see if it cleans up. It would suck to bore it and have to swap the pistons just for a little surface rust. If it's just some light rust and no pitting I would hone just that cylinder, make sure it's relatively close to being in spec and send it.

GD

 

That is a good idea. I have a 3 stone hone I can give it a shot. I'll go easy and see if it takes it off. That would be money if it did.

 

Agreed on the SLP runners. Even with a small 214/220 duration cam my Vortec head 383 I had in my old G20 van ran the quickest ETs shifting at 6,200. Ported 3817 base and siamese ported runners. 380 hp and 410 tq to the tires.

 

I did not even hone a 5.3 I had similar to that. Touched it up with an oil damp scuff pad and ran it.

 

Agreed. That's exactly what I would do first. Maroon scotch brite pad and some WD40. Go with the same angle as the existing cross hatch. Then carefully inspect.

GD

 

I hit the cylinder with a 3 stone hone and wd40. It took all the rust away but there is still staining left, and it can be felt. I will have to take it by the machine shop to get him to inspect it.

 

Machine shops make money machining things. You really have to ask him?

That said it's definitely borderline. Might need to bore it but I would only bore it the minimum required. If .010 over will do then go with that.

GD

 

I let it sit overnight with some seafoam deep creep in the holes. The engine now turns over with a hand ratchet. Things are looking up. Next step I'll check out the condition of the main and rod bearings.

 

A little update. Nothing is happening at the moment but I'm still debating combo parts.

I think I've narrowed it down to:
383 stroker
195cc heads
Holley stealth ram intake
Comp cams 280XFI-HR13 cam.
Advertised Duration: 280/288
Duration @0.050: 230/236
Lobe Separation: 113

Thoughts for a weekend driver?

 

Yup. Proven combo. Lots of power. Get the afr upgrade spring for hyd rollers. Think its still their 8019 spring. Its a PAC spring i believe around 1.27-1.29 diameter and 150 lbs seat and 400-412 open or so

not exactly mild but not wild either

 

Is the 280xfi cam too big/small for a weekend driver?

I would say it's large for a 350, but a 383 would tame it down.

I don't want to fight with it ever time I want to drive it.

Other than the 280xfi cam is there any others that might be a better choice?

 

Its fine in a 383. Tune will make it work and it will be plenty drivable.

 

I had a 383 and a 400 with the 280xfi cam and miniram(LT1 intake)
It was great for street strip car.

I had the stock ecu and speed density and got it good enough to drive on the street.
With a dry shot of nitrous, it really woke it up!