I have a 88 350 gta with a functional ram air hood. The kit i have says I have to extended my mass air flow sensor wiring. What's the easiest way to do this and is it even worth it?Will I see any gain performance wise?

 

There are a lot of varying opinions on "ram air" and whether it actually works (does it actually push more air into the engine or produce any more power). I have read a lot of arguments on it. The only convincing arguments I have read were the ones that cite actual scientific data, indicating the concept doesn't really work on your typical street car. All the arguments I have read for it pretty much just cite someone's opinion based on the "seat of their pants" feel.

That being said, there is a valid argument to be made for cold air intake vs hot air intake under the hood. If you replace a hot air intake drawing air from under the hood with a "ram air" intake that is really just drawing cold air from outside the car you MIGHT see a small power difference. OR, of your current intake were restrictive and the "ram air" intake were less restrictive you MIGHT see a small power difference.

Search function on this forum and the internet will uncover more than you probably care to read about the subject.

 

Ram air becomes a functional factor around 40-45 MPH. Additional pressure in the inlet tract can help overcome filter losses, and can help offset losses from a less-than-optimal intake tract design, including bends, dust sizes, etc. However, if the throttle is not opened substantially to require or take advantage of the potential additional flow, no gain will be realized.

Going a step further, even if additional air can be crammed through the inlet tract, the MAF and ECM can only measure up to 255 grams/second air flow. Adding more than that takes the system out of that curve and can lead to lean-out. That's not likely to help power at all, not to mention risking damage (aluminum piston domes melt at a fairly low temperature).

 

My 2007 G35 Sedan was factory rated +5 HP at 60 mph due to the intake box and ducting design. Not a huge difference but a difference none the less.

Added dual 4" air intake tubing to a TBI 454 powered P30 motorhome by modifying the factory air cleaner housing and ducting air to it with 4" rigid aluminum dryer tubing to the core support behind the grille. Drilled holes in the core support and used round 4" duct ends with a flat flange to bolt it to the core support. Combined it with a K&N filter. Made a very noticeable difference in power in the 45-70 mph range. So much extra air available that I had to adjust the fueling in the chip. It had previously been fitted with doug thorley tri-ys so it was already a little lean but the air intake modification pushed it outside the ability for the stock chip to fuel the thirsty 454.

 

If when driving at speed, the relative air pressure underhood is LESS than outside ambient air or the relative air pressure in a high pressure zone (front bumper), (cowl windshield base area) then the engine air inlet sees a higher relative pressure if the pickup point is in this high pressure zone. More power at speed. Cooler is better also.
The best high pressure pick up zone is usually at near the front bumper area
But you also pick up more road dirt dust water spray etc
You want to at least NOT see a negative relative air pressure. Less than ambient.

 

Wether the grills on a GTA hood are a good (higher pressure) air pickup point when at speed is another story.. Usually you want to be ABOVE the airflow surface BOUNDRY Layer AREA.
Like the hood scoops on a 1970-1974 Firebird Formula.

 

You want the underhood ducting of any ram air cold air system to pick up the least amount of surrounding under hood heat.. Stay away from exhaust, Radiator ,etc etc..