Okay im gonna reach out to you all for some help.

I have a 92 Camaro that came with a V6 I swapped out for a 350 TPI that I built. The engine harness came from a 90 Trans Am. Hooked everything up but when I turn the key, the only thing that does anything is the fuel system priming. It has a new and functional starter, charged battery, new distributor, plugs and wires. Everything else like the lights and tail hatch motor work. The distributor, plugs and wires are all new. So is there some ignition wire setup im missing or that could be bad, maybe the ignition coil?? I jumped the solenoid and the starter motor definitely works, so please, any ideas would seriously help! Thanks!!

P.S.: I'm doing this build almost ENTIRELY off youtube tutorials. I have ZERO formal training in auto mechanics so im learning as I go.

 

The VATS antitheft, ignition switch, the starter relay, or the nuetral safety switch are the common causes of a no crank situation when the starter is functioning. For wiring diagrams http://www.austinthirdgen.org/index.php?pid=19

 

MAN THANK YOU for replying! I was hoping someone would answer the batsignal lol

Okay cool. Next question(s): is there a specific way to test each of those and start a process of elimination?

 

Use the wiring diagrams to see where power it lost to the starter. The purple wire to the starter is likely not getting power as the starter tested fine on the engine already. There's lots of places to start checking, the fuse is a good place to give you a direction. Turn the key to "crank" and see if it has power on either side. Yes? Then follow the line according to the diagram. No? Then it's somewhere forward in the diagram.

 

Alright good deal. Not gonna lie, I have no clue how to read a wiring diagram so this will be my next homework assignment I guess, one wire at a time. Lol, and here I was hoping they just made some plug and play type harness and such. Not that lucky I guess.

 

Certainly could be VATS since both harnesses are '89+. I'd start there since the testing is relatively cheap and easy to do. You can test if it's VATS getting in your way by bypassing the starter enable relay with a thick wire and 2 male spade connectors. If the car starts cranking, that relay wasn't getting activated (or that relay is no good) and VATS is what controls it. The other thing VATS does is disable the injectors so you might try installing a bypass module if the cranking test is successful and the relay isn't busted.

 

Wiring diagrams aren't very complicated. A few things may seem confusing but you'll pick it up quickly, I'm sure. Most of it is just 12v power and ground. Follow the lines. And use a test light to see what has what.
As an aside, make sure you have everything connected that needs to be connected. Check to make sure your grounds to the chassis and the power wires are all hooked up. Don't chase your own tail.

 

So I literally just watched 3 videos about bypassing the VATS. It looks simple enough and Im DEFINITELY gonna start there. Thank you so much for your advice! 👍🏾

 

unless the OP removed the harness in the dash, the VATS should work just the same as it did before the swap. The VATS module sends the signal to the ecm. The module doesn't 'need' to go anywhere in this type of swap. Depending on what the OP changed out, if the vats worked before it should work now. It's not ruled out, just not the prime suspect.

 

Yeah, it should be the same. Or, even if it's putting out a different hz to the ecm, it should still activate the start enable relay. I always bypass the relay first because it's easy and quick to access, plus there's the potential that the relay itself is bad.