My car has developed a new ticking noise, it's there cold but goes away warm, it also speeds up with acceleration. I recently had my exhaust system re welded and I am hoping it's an exhaust leak is all. What do you guys think? What does a valve train or lifter cost to fix? It's a 92 v8 5L. I have spent so much on repairs recently. This was supposed to be a project car and ended up being a daily driver due to losing my job and money going to bills instead of repairs or a new car.

 

Could be a lifter or a leak, but since it goes away with temp, I would say it is a lifter.
Not sure on cost since it all depends on if you will do any work yourself, going with budget parts or something nicer, etc...

Sorry about the situation you are in, but at the very least make sure you have good oil in there and see if you can nail down the sound.

Use a tube against your ear and aim it at the valve covers, sound should get a lot louder when you aim in the direction of the problem.

Good luck

 

My dad is recommending I try seafoam. Do you think it's possible it's gunked up? I will check oil and everything as well. I am double checking with a mechanic today to make sure it's not an exhaust leak from the work he's done.

 

Only seafoam I have used is the intake cleaner. It worked great based on the crap that came out.

That being said, I don't think any of their products will solve the tick. Assuming it is a lifter. If the oil is good, then chances that a bit of detergent will solve a lifter issue is minimal.

That being said the cost to try it is low compared to a proper top end rebuild so go for it.

 

Magic cans of goo won't fix your tick. Some hose close to your ear or a mechanic's stethoscope might help you figure out the source.

 

We figured it out. I got super low on oil and this is a car that never leaked or anything. Turns out I damaged my oil pan when I bottomed out a month ago and I have a rear main seal leak too. Something I was curious about because that leak is expensive, do I need to lift the engine/oil pan or just drop the tranny for the rear main leak? If it's just drop the tranny I can take care of that one for now and shouldn't cost as much as they assumed for that one.

 

The rear main seal is two pieces that go around the crankshaft. From my understanding, you can't easily do that repair with the motor in the car.
I could be wrong.

 

See that's where the confusion is, I THINK mine is a one piece. Aren't the older ones two piece? I couldn't find anything for sure but if I do have to lift the motor I'll just get everything done at once, why not right? It's just extra cost to do something else later requiring the motor be lifted. I am wondering if it's worth investing in a car lift and motor lift for home. I like working on my car but it is so hard to get under it at home.

 

Did a quick google search and there is A LOT of info of people swapping rear main seals (RMS). Looks like you are right, it could be a one piece.
This thread seems worth a read: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/sout...seal-leak.html
Looks like it is really no big deal if a 1 piece. Pop out the old, clean everything, pop in the new.
Trans out of the way of course and logistics of working under there sorted.

I bought an engine hoist 20 years ago at Pepboys for $120. Used that thing so many times for all kinds of reasons.
Don't think you need a lift now for this job, but more tools is never a bad idea. Take care of them and you have them for life.

I would first sort out the lifting of the car and dropping the trans part. You gotta do that no matter what.
Then clean everything and inspect your situation fully. Do you need a new oil pan too?

Come up with a plan then, run it by the forum if you need to and execute. You will be happy when it is all said and done, and done carefully.

 

If it's still the original 92 block, it's a one piece. And you do need to pull the tranny to change. Don't need to touch the oil pan. It pries out with a screwdriver from the back... CLean up the crank surface with some 600 grit.

Buy the more expensive Viton seals. I used a cheaper ptfe seal and it leaked even worse!. Better makes sense.

For installation, I used a short piece of 4 inch PVC pipe with end cap cut flush. A perfect fit over the seal so it goes in straight and you don't damage it.

I have done 3 one piece seals now... My 92, 89, and 88.... All Viton... And none leak after install.

Good luck.