alright, i AM getting the code 32. read the tech article, read chitlons. Checked it out. getting vacuum (not sure how much though...). I can move it by hand, but it dont move when I rev enegine, even though vacuum increases. when I push on it with my hand, rpm drops way down (so I guess its letting gass through then). Somebody PLEASE tell me I dont need to replace the valve, 50 bux fer a new one from Autozone. ANY input would be a great help, thanx!

 

Probably the egr vacuum switch. trace the vacuum line from the valve to the switch. Mine cost about $35 and it is easy to change.

 

But if I can feel the vacuum on the rubber hose goin into valve, then...oh, and its supposed to have 5 in/hg's of vacuum, that should feel like a very little in yer finder right?

 

Is the EGR valve on a 350 and a 305 interchangable???

 

Yep

-ONE2FLY

 

Excellent. Its almost $15 chaeper at www.gmpartsdirect.com than at AutoZone. Now, another question - normally (fer the past few months), my SES light would come on after driving about 5 miles. Yesterday it didnt. Now, is there any way that just manually pushing on valve diaphram would in some way 'unstick' it? Becuase right now I am confused...

 

The valve isn't mechanically stuck, the vacuum diaphragm is ruptured, allowing vacuum to escape and prevent opening the valve. I'm not sure I'd mix-n-match 305 and 350 valves even though I agree they are almost identical.

The ECM can only indirectly determine if the the valve is opening. On my 91 Jimmy the ECM can take somewhere between 2 and 20 minutes of highway driving before it throws a code.

 

I see. But why would my light not come on after a good while of driving (noramally, almost always comes on after a few minutes.)? I drove a little while today also, is it possible that there was a fouling or sticking action, and the 'manual cycling' of the valve (for lack of better words) 'opened' it up? I suppose I should just keep an eye out for it to happen again...