So I’ve got a big problem. I have an 85 firebird base, v6 2.8 manual. It’s had a small issue with idle since I got it around new years, that some of you probably remember me asking about. I’ve done spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor, IAC valve, TPS, thorough intake/TB clean, MAF sensor, and it still idles roughly and I’m thinking also a bit rich. It bogs after about fifty percent throttle, so I have to ease the speed up. Just yesterday started the big problem though. It was idling roughly as usual, then started to idle lower and lower and then died. I tried starting it back, but all I got was cranking with no hint of fuel. After several minutes it started like normal, but today I was in the drive thru and it just died from normal idle, like I had turned it off with the key. Google showed people saying that it’s a fuel issue, likely fuel pump, and I’m sure that’s the case. But I don’t know if it’s pump, pressure regulator, or filter, and if the dying is caused by the same thing that causes the acceleration bog. I need help, because I have some driving to do for VA exams

 

A fuel pressure test would be a good idea.

 

I just found a dripping fuel line towards the back on the driver side in front of the back wheel, would that affect anything?

 

At the very least, it's a fire hazard. It may also be affecting operating fuel pressure.

 

Update: I did a pressure test. Consistent idle pressure is around 36 psi, but as soon as it’s keyed off it’s down to 10 in about 30 seconds. Any advice for where my loss might be? Also, the ‘leak’ in the fuel line seems too minute to cause that much difference in the loss, as it’s more a seep than a leak. It’s seeping through a threaded fitting

 

If it holds pressure for a few seconds, it's might be O.K.

If you block the fuel return line and cycle the pump, does the pressure maintain longer? If not, it could be the check valve in the fuel pump leaking back, and that would not be a problem. It could also be injectors leaking, which would be a problem.

 

I have some problems. So yesterday morning on the way to work, my car started chugging like it had a really bad misfire and then died in the road. It would only crank really slow, but not like a dead battery, more like a sticking engine. I had it towed and came back to it after work with some oil and a filter, and some sea foam and engine restore. The dipstick was dry, and I believe that it was my mistake for not keeping an eye on the level. Did the change, it started back up, and valve clatter faded as the oil cycled, so I thought it was fine. But then I took it out for some errands, and it would rev really low, several times dying completely. It would start back up, but only after some elongated cranking like a weak battery. It’s like the pistons are still dragging, even with new oil and the extra lubrication from the sea foam and restore. The battery is fine, and it’s a brand new alternator that I know works. It has to be engine related, but I don’t know what it is

 

how low was the oil? running an engine on no oil to the point where it locks up and shuts down is basically a death sentence for it.

 

I do realise that, and I admit that I should have kept my eyes on it. I drained probably a quart, maybe a quart and a half. It didn’t fully seize, it just got mostly stuck. Like I said, it would still crank very slowly, and it started after adding oil

 

i would disconnect the battery, pull the plugs, and try turning the engine over by hand with a flex plate tool and see how difficult it is to turn. avoid turning it over with the balancer bolt, snapping the head off the balancer bolt would be icing on the cake at this point. i’d also do another oil change, inspect the oil for particles, and cut open the oil filter to get an idea of how much damage was done inside.

even if it didn’t fully lock up, things still got hot due to excess friction and did some damage. i think it most likely started up again because it had time to cool off. it might behave okay when cold but once it warms up and expands it will likely be a different story. not exactly an engine i would trust driving around town with anymore. I have no idea what the availability for the v6 engines is for these cars but swapping in a replacement would be something id be planning.

 

ive been thinking of a carburetted 305 swap, because i hate fuel injection. I much rather work on the older stuff