1986 LG4 water jacket
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Joined: Oct 2023
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From: TN
Car: 1986 Blue Iroc Z TTop
Engine: 305 LG4
Transmission: 5speed
1986 LG4 water jacket
I have water/antifreeze leaking from the back of the motor onto my exhaust. I was told it was probably coming from my water jacket. I have no idea what that is or where it’s located. Can someone please tell me what I’m looking for and how to tighten it? Appreciate the help.
Thread Starter
Junior Member

Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 55
Likes: 1
From: TN
Car: 1986 Blue Iroc Z TTop
Engine: 305 LG4
Transmission: 5speed
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 16,737
Likes: 994
From: Mile High Country !!!
Car: 1967 Camaro, 91 z28
Engine: Lb9
Transmission: M20
Axle/Gears: J65 pbr on stock posi 10bolt
Re: 1986 LG4 water jacket
Several on a sbc, on the side of the block , front of block and rear of block.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,870
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Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: 1986 LG4 water jacket
Here's what the side of your block looks like. This is the pass side; the driver's side is exactly the same except different.

And here's what the front looks like:

And again, the rear is much the same. Back there, the plugs are inside the transmission bell housing.
The "freeze plugs" are the large round things that are brass in both of these motors. They're not really "freeze" plugs, although that's what they're usually called; they're actually sand drain holes, for allowing the sand used in the casting process, to drain out. Factory ones are made of steel, not brass, and they rust out from the inside, particularly when the coolant isn't changed regularly and is allowed to build up acids which make it corrosive. Poor-sealing head gaskets, such as steel-shim ones, exacerbate the process, by allowing minute amounts of combustion gases into the coolant. The carbon dioxide in the exhaust is the same acid that makes Coca-Cola and other sodas able to eat metals and do various other chemically active things. Eventually they rust all the way through and leeeeeek.
Resist the temptation to replace just one, unless you're really desperate to keep this car on the road. Reason being, there are 2 on the side where the leeeeeeek is, 2 on the other side, 2 on the front, and 2 on the back; all 8 have been immersed in the exact same coolant with the exact same amount of acid for the exact same length of time and are likely to be in the exact same condition. What will likely happen is, you'll change out the one, and then next week, another will fail; and the next week, yet another; and so on. The only exception to this would be, if it's winter, and you let the engine freeze up by not having enough antifreeze in the coolant, and it got pushed out by the ice. Butt almost always in that case, there's worse damage anyway, usually cracks in the block.
Not a pleasant situation to arrive at, butt It Is What It Is, and sugar-coating it won't help.

And here's what the front looks like:

And again, the rear is much the same. Back there, the plugs are inside the transmission bell housing.
The "freeze plugs" are the large round things that are brass in both of these motors. They're not really "freeze" plugs, although that's what they're usually called; they're actually sand drain holes, for allowing the sand used in the casting process, to drain out. Factory ones are made of steel, not brass, and they rust out from the inside, particularly when the coolant isn't changed regularly and is allowed to build up acids which make it corrosive. Poor-sealing head gaskets, such as steel-shim ones, exacerbate the process, by allowing minute amounts of combustion gases into the coolant. The carbon dioxide in the exhaust is the same acid that makes Coca-Cola and other sodas able to eat metals and do various other chemically active things. Eventually they rust all the way through and leeeeeek.
Resist the temptation to replace just one, unless you're really desperate to keep this car on the road. Reason being, there are 2 on the side where the leeeeeeek is, 2 on the other side, 2 on the front, and 2 on the back; all 8 have been immersed in the exact same coolant with the exact same amount of acid for the exact same length of time and are likely to be in the exact same condition. What will likely happen is, you'll change out the one, and then next week, another will fail; and the next week, yet another; and so on. The only exception to this would be, if it's winter, and you let the engine freeze up by not having enough antifreeze in the coolant, and it got pushed out by the ice. Butt almost always in that case, there's worse damage anyway, usually cracks in the block.
Not a pleasant situation to arrive at, butt It Is What It Is, and sugar-coating it won't help.
Thread Starter
Junior Member

Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 55
Likes: 1
From: TN
Car: 1986 Blue Iroc Z TTop
Engine: 305 LG4
Transmission: 5speed
Re: 1986 LG4 water jacket
Here's what the side of your block looks like. This is the pass side; the driver's side is exactly the same except different.

And here's what the front looks like:

And again, the rear is much the same. Back there, the plugs are inside the transmission bell housing.
The "freeze plugs" are the large round things that are brass in both of these motors. They're not really "freeze" plugs, although that's what they're usually called; they're actually sand drain holes, for allowing the sand used in the casting process, to drain out. Factory ones are made of steel, not brass, and they rust out from the inside, particularly when the coolant isn't changed regularly and is allowed to build up acids which make it corrosive. Poor-sealing head gaskets, such as steel-shim ones, exacerbate the process, by allowing minute amounts of combustion gases into the coolant. The carbon dioxide in the exhaust is the same acid that makes Coca-Cola and other sodas able to eat metals and do various other chemically active things. Eventually they rust all the way through and leeeeeek.
Resist the temptation to replace just one, unless you're really desperate to keep this car on the road. Reason being, there are 2 on the side where the leeeeeeek is, 2 on the other side, 2 on the front, and 2 on the back; all 8 have been immersed in the exact same coolant with the exact same amount of acid for the exact same length of time and are likely to be in the exact same condition. What will likely happen is, you'll change out the one, and then next week, another will fail; and the next week, yet another; and so on. The only exception to this would be, if it's winter, and you let the engine freeze up by not having enough antifreeze in the coolant, and it got pushed out by the ice. Butt almost always in that case, there's worse damage anyway, usually cracks in the block.
Not a pleasant situation to arrive at, butt It Is What It Is, and sugar-coating it won't help.

And here's what the front looks like:

And again, the rear is much the same. Back there, the plugs are inside the transmission bell housing.
The "freeze plugs" are the large round things that are brass in both of these motors. They're not really "freeze" plugs, although that's what they're usually called; they're actually sand drain holes, for allowing the sand used in the casting process, to drain out. Factory ones are made of steel, not brass, and they rust out from the inside, particularly when the coolant isn't changed regularly and is allowed to build up acids which make it corrosive. Poor-sealing head gaskets, such as steel-shim ones, exacerbate the process, by allowing minute amounts of combustion gases into the coolant. The carbon dioxide in the exhaust is the same acid that makes Coca-Cola and other sodas able to eat metals and do various other chemically active things. Eventually they rust all the way through and leeeeeek.
Resist the temptation to replace just one, unless you're really desperate to keep this car on the road. Reason being, there are 2 on the side where the leeeeeeek is, 2 on the other side, 2 on the front, and 2 on the back; all 8 have been immersed in the exact same coolant with the exact same amount of acid for the exact same length of time and are likely to be in the exact same condition. What will likely happen is, you'll change out the one, and then next week, another will fail; and the next week, yet another; and so on. The only exception to this would be, if it's winter, and you let the engine freeze up by not having enough antifreeze in the coolant, and it got pushed out by the ice. Butt almost always in that case, there's worse damage anyway, usually cracks in the block.
Not a pleasant situation to arrive at, butt It Is What It Is, and sugar-coating it won't help.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,870
Likes: 2,429
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: 1986 LG4 water jacket
do I have to pull the engine to replace all of them?
What is the process of replacing them?
https://www.autozone.com/external-en...014/245318_0_0
When you see the plugs it'll become REAL obvious what you're doing.
They make expanding rubber ones for emergency repairs, butt I think you'll agree once you see what you're up against, that they aren't a good idea in this case. Might be OK on the front of the block butt not on the sides or rear.
Of course, before doing ANY of this, find the leeeeeeeeek, POSITIVELY. Don't just guess and jump to the worst possible conclusion without actually finding it. Could be, for example, a head bolt (the threads of all 17 on each side go directly into the water jacket), or head gasket.
Last edited by sofakingdom; Jun 15, 2024 at 02:17 PM.
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