Hey Mr. No. Shortly after I posted that bit of self doubt, I went back over the pictures I posted in this thread and verified my methodology. Which is to say, I followed Miller's math and my math lines up with his. Yes. A 30 thou witness mark (or thereabouts) and centered. It did take a $1000 set of rocker arms to get there though.
It did have myself second guessing as @raptere 's math was very thorough and included the valve tip height. The way I went about it, because of the goofy jig I made up which placed both of the axes (spell checked!) above my reference plane it was just subtract one from the other.
The only bit of inaccuracy built into what I did was not using the full running spring to keep things tight.
As for spring pressures and how they're localized during operation, it's obviously going to greatest at fully open. How that actually translates to the valve stem and guide is something I'd have to draw up. That is if I can recall how to do it! I do know that discussing this with a good friend who actually is an engineer (I was a drop out student sadly) demonstrated how the loads are transmitted and why my guides and intake valve stems were smoked.

 

I had a similar thought. That's part of why I'm feeling better about the 7.400 pattern. The inside edge lines up with the center of the valve stem, meaning seated, and full lift will both be on or close to the center of the valve. As I hit approximately mid lift the co tact line is at its farthest away from the center...

I read what you said about drawing something up a couple of times, but I'm not sure exactly what you're looking for. I am a practicing engineer and I have 2d cad upstairs if there is something you need me to sketch up...

 

This is what I managed to reconcile with the right length push rod and the backset rocker. The result being the motion starts slightly inboard of the valve tip centerline (.015-.020") advances across to the centre to the exhaust side and about .015-020" later at full lift it starts it's retreat to the inboard side. But something to consider is that this was a solution for my particular pile of parts.
Somewhat similarly, on another engine (in my buddy's 82 Monte, 355) while we managed a reasonably narrow sweep it too was close to valve tip edge. We also opted for a Crower backset rocker to replace the Comp Ultra Pro Magnums (like yours I believe) on the AFR 195 Street Eliminators. Result was too much back towards to the intake side and it was lopsided the other way. The offset Crowers were sent back and Crower zero offset trunnions (like the Comps) were dropped in and the difference in design , despite being the same ratio, (not all 1.6 ratio rockers measure the same) dialed the contact patch into dead centre. So you see how it all stacks up.


As for drawing something up, it could written as an equation. The roller tip as it passes across the valve tip moves in an arc. This changes the direction of the force applied with some of it moving across the stem and guide. It depends on the angle of "attack" represented by a line between the axes. Like a lever. Once at the mid point, that force is then straight down but only through that point. It was how we worked this stuff out when I was being educated although perhaps my description isn't what it should be. It would however explain why the guides will get excessively and prematurely worn if the geometry is not as it should be. Hence narrow over centered.

That said, for the sake of 1/10th of an inch (7.40 vs 7.50), if that's where your comfort zone is, then go for it. With the dynamics of a valvetrain at full song, I'm of the mind that's there's a lot of other possible means of destruction. I've experienced several.

 

I decided to try one of those blue plastic pushrod length checkers from ProForm thinking it would be a way for me to confirm my measuring methods. It indicated that my 7.200 factory rods were about 0.125 too long, so I'm throwing out that whole idea. I have heard from a number of people that those aren't worth anything, I'd suggest avoiding them.

Given my previous measurements and discussion. I ordered new Trickflow 7.400 pushrods, that should be here today, so I can get this project moving again. I've been tending to some other smalling parts of the project recently, like making my hood blisters functional heat extractors!


A few questions came up though as I have been putting some more of the old parts onto my new engine. First is my oil pressure sender. The hole on the old block came out perpendicular to the crank, the new block has the hole angled slightly towards the front positioning the end of the sensor, and the plastic connector closer to my exhaust header... Is there a common solution for this. I found I could get a 2" nipple and a 90deg street elbow, and just turn it so it points straight down away from the exhaust, but will the additional tubing, with no vent trap air, and give an inaccurate reading? I Think I found I can get a 45deg street elbow from certain places, that may work by itself, and now create such a significant length of tube to allow trapped air, if it fits in there, would that be better?

Directly in hole

2" nipple with 90 deg elbow

Next thing is the oil 'filter adapter' not sure if that is what it is called. It is the part connected to the block that normally would have the filter connected to in, but in my case with the engine oil cooler I have to swap the standard screws out with the ones that have the studs, that help align the cooler when installed. My concern is that when I pulled that piece off, I found it was sitting against the bare housing. Should there have been a gasket in there? I actually ordered a new sealing kit which should be here Wednesday, that includes a filter for this position as well as the main square profile rubber seal the cooler has against the block. Should I use that gasket in there that comes in my sealing kit?

Do i need to add a gasket here?

Last thing now is looking at my old upper engine mounts (or clamshells as I guess they're called) are pretty rusty and nasty. I could put some elbow grease into cleaning and repainting them or just buy fancy new ones from BMR or UMI looks like they're around $40 for the set. Is there a general opinion on those? Sounds like the factory stamped steel versions are no longer available since one side of ours is the standard pre 82 design, but the other side is customer and now discontinued... Any significant benefit of going with the steel versions from UMI or BMR? Other than looks, which may be enough for me. I am just using a fresh set of rubber lower engine mounts. I'm worried this engine may idle pretty choppy, so I want there to be a bit of rubber in the system to absorb the vibration...


UMI - UMI 90076 1982-1992 GM F-Body Engine Mounts, SBC - Heavy Duty, Improved Responsiveness

BMR - BMR Suspension MM331 - Motor Mount Kit, Engine Side, Solid - 1982-1992 F-Body

 

Surprise! It's me again. (Day off from work and checking in on emails now and again...

I don't blame you in the least for wanting to verify some random guy's suggestions on determining this bit of critical information. That said, I've never put any faith into that little plastic gizmo.

I can't say I've seen an oil pressure sender installed there. I'll qualify that by saying it doesn't mean that it shouldn't go there (seeing as that's where you started correct?)
I've always had mine installed topside for easy access. There's no "vent" for air as it isn't needed. The pressure will be transmitted regardless.




The original adaptor doesn't use a gasket. If your new adaptor kit suggests using a gasket, I'd go with that recommendation.
If you think about it, the oil filter gasket provides the seal so if any oil gets past the adaptor to block interface, it's fully contained within the filter seal. If the filter is now remote, then that rubber sealing ring isn't part of the picture any more.
I can tell you that on the BBC installed in the 85 TA, I put in an external oil filter (and cooler) due to the tight confines in the header / filter area. Remote filter was the only way to go really but that sucker has leaked from day 1. I don't recall if there was a gasket or not (it's been well over twenty years) but seeing as the car has been mostly parked in all that time, the leak has never been addressed. It's now my nephews issue to deal with! (But I'd love to have it back in my hands again.)

 

DON"T string together all of those plumbing fittings! That brass nipple will break from vibration.
If anything, use the 45 and keep it as short as possible. Or use an alternate location for the sensor.

 

So the first picture is a bad idea, the second is far worse. Plug that port and put the sending unit in the port next to the distributor. Since you've already spun it in, clean the red dry sealer off with a wire brush and get yourself a big tube of loctite 567 it's the only thing I've found that actually seals threads right against automotive fluids. Get a bottle of 7649 primer too if you want to be extra sure.

 

As posted earlier: Isn't the plug circled in red (above) the traditional spot for the oil pressure sender?

 

The first position shown dor the oil pressure sensor is the stock location for later tpi engines, only on my factory block it came out straight, this one is angled forward about 15 degrees so it gets much closer to my exhaust...

Looks like earlier ones may have had it up top, I'll have to see if the thread size is the same and if I'm going to have room for it there I'm worried it's close to where my fuel lines go in an out of the rails at the back... if I need to use one adapter Fitting maybe a 45, that's not the end of the world, right? Ill probubly have to extend all the wiring to make it up there too... which is a bit annoying.

 

It's been a long time since I worked on a TPI engine and that was only to remove it from the 86 IROC. Didn't take notice of the sending unit. That said, yes, most if not all earlier engines (carbureted anyway) use the 1/8" NPT port at the back as circled in the posted picture.
As for fittings, etc., No Emissions makes a good point. But to make my sender more reachable (aftermarket for Autometer gauge) I've a 2" brass nipple and then a 45° female/female block. Into that I've screwed in the sending unit. So far and thousands of miles later, it's still intact.
As for the wiring, although mine is customized, the factory loom I believe comes out of the C100 connector. As such, it's kind of located midway between the two port options so it may not be a big deal to swing it up topside. If the length isn't sufficient, a solid butt splice crimp and some heat shrink should do the job. Yes, it is a hassle in that regard.

 

Should I also be able to put the oil pressure sensor in this hole circled in Green. Looking at the contours of the casting, it looks like the same oil passage. I think it is the same 1/4NPT size as the sensor, that 1/8" NPT hole above it I would have to use an adapter regardless of angle. I am a little concerned if there will be enough room against the firewall, so I may have to wait to have the engine back in the car before selecting a final position...



There weren't any comments on the engine mounts, but I decided when everything else looks nice and new, what is another $40? So, I ordered a set of the UMI mounts and they come with new hardware, which is a plus!

 

[QUOTE=raptere;6552296]Should I also be able to put the oil pressure sensor in this hole circled in Green. Looking at the contours of the casting, it looks like the same oil passage. I think it is the same 1/4NPT size as the sensor, that 1/8" NPT hole above it I would have to use an adapter regardless of angle. I am a little concerned if there will be enough room against the firewall, so I may have to wait to have the engine back in the car before selecting a final position...


/QUOTE]

I went back over some older (and newer) build pictures so I can reacquaint myself with what I did. I'd take a current picture but the car tucked away and presently under a foot of snow!
What I had identified as the port I used was in fact wrong.



This is the pad on the rear of the engine. Notice how it doesn't have your angled port. And only the one to work. But this isn't where the OEM sender was on this particular engine (and I think almost all carb or throttle body versions).


Way at the back you can see circled in red where this vintage block has it's oil sender port. Or at least one of them. The manifold is contoured to fit around it.




This is from ten years ago. The OEM oil sending unit, or in this case an Autometer version, has a 1/8" NPT thread. Yours looks to be 1/8" as well.
From my pipefitters handbook: The outside diameter (OD) of an NPT fitting is usually about 1/4 in larger than its nominal size. For example, the OD of a 1/8 in NPT fitting is about 0.4 in.

That sending unit (pictured above) had too much bulk to fit the shape of the manifold so I added a 2" nipple and a 45° block for clearance. The only risk of breakage is during engine removal or installation in which case good practice says to install it after the fact.
Further to your question, there's plenty of room back there although having the angled bit aids in better orientation.

 

Hold everything. You said that you were running an oil cooler, requiring an adapter between the block and oil filter, correct?
If there is not already an extra port to use on the adapter, you can drill and tap your own port located in any position that you want.

 

Also an 1/8" NPT thread.
Although that would put the sensor down in the header again. If room topside doesn't exist, it would be an easy workaround to have some -3 AN braided line to bulkhead type fitting and the sensor mounted up and out of the way. You could easily access the firewall. This is something I'm considering once I'm finished track testing and can finally get to the engine bay detailing that is in need.

 

Drill & tap a 1/8"-27 NPT port on the other side of that adapter.
Install a plug in the existing hole.
I like the idea of using the flex line also. It's just a sensor.
You could put it wherever you wanted that way.

 

Not being a TPI builder, or any kind of EFI themed engine for that matter (in a 3rd gen), I've a question regarding that "china wall" (I've never liked that term). and the oil port there. As I mentioned, the carbed intake is contoured to fit around whatever is screwed into that port. And there's plenty of space all around, including vertically, to accommodate a sensor. Is the TPI intake different in that local landscape? Or any of the aftermarket intakes? Putting the sensor right in that lifter valley rear wall puts it adjacent to the engine wiring loom. I've not more than a couple of inches of exposed wire between the loom and the sensor which makes for a tidy install.

 

I couldn't help but do a quick test fit... you can see there is a cutout in the lower intake manifold, but I don't need it for this block.




I can confirm it is 1/4 npt, I have been buying fittings, and they fit... This is where I'm currently at, and it may work, but it may be getting awfully close to the firewall. I only get about a 1/4 turn once the threads go tight, I'm not sure if this enough. I alredy rounded the protruding corners of the Fitting. Could take off a bit more, take a little material off the block, or just use a 1" long lipple, flip the 45 around and connect it to the sensor with a coupling... I personally don't like the idea of modifying my factory oil cooler, it's actually a heat exchanger with coolant running through it, and I think the body is only sheet metal, I don't want to start drilling into it...



Got my UMI upper motor mounts today and got those installed. Also got the sealing kit for the oil cooler, gotta put the gaskets in and get that all hooked up.

 

I feel bad for that header tube. They need massaging to clear the steering, not an @$$ whooping.

 

Ha, yea, I feel the same way... I was not happy with the shop I had do the install way back in maybe 2003... not much i can do now, if I tried, I may make it worse...

 

That engine deserves long tube headers and a full dual exhaust anyway. So maybe in the next phase. 'Cause you know it's coming!

 

Sure, next winter I'm sure I'll take on a new upgrade. Right now I would just be very happy to make it to an autox event this summer. Feels like I'm a long way from there still...

I swear the road blocks are non stop! now my brand new injectors dont fit... seem to be too long...

Created a new post to deal with that one.:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/alte...ml#post6552674

I did install the intake today, slightly stressful, but I made a point of putting a nice fat bead on the front and back walls, and aligning the ports and gasket as well as I could, I thin the result turned out pretty good. Port match looks decent!


Test fit

Nice thick beads of Right Stuff Gray RTV

Tough to get a decent pic... port alignment

 

It's been a while since I've had a chance to update. Wife's 40th, vacation... But, in the last week, I've been able to put some more work in.

The engine is back in the car! Exciting moment! Now it's a matter of getting everything hooked back up. Electrical, Cooling, etc...



I tried a few different arrangements I talked about before for my oil pressure sender, but I wanted the engine in first to make sure it all fits properly. After pretty significantly modifying the 45 fitting I was able to get it to what I think is a safe and effective spot.





I also ran into a problem where the power stud on the back of my alternator was hitting my new valve covers. Big scratch to prove it... I ended up putting a washer behind each mounting point for the Alternator, and power steering pump bracket, as well as grinding all the material I could afford off the lug, got it so I have a decent little air gap, I'll have to put some sort of insulator in there once its all back together... I did find out, you can get an identical alternator, but with the terminal on the inboard side, instead of on the back. It would be a perfect solution, if I was planning to replace the alternator at the same time, but since mine seems fine, it seemed like an expensive fix for the problem...




It really feels like I'm getting close to a test start up, but I am starting to get more concerned about the tuning. I have been reading a bunch, but it is still a bit hard to absorb, I may just have to get into it to get a better feel for the BLMs and what not. I have experience with OBD2 tuning, and i have been burning chips for things like fan set points and eliminating codes for a few years, but this is a little more involved with that. I'm also struggling to understand how to use the extended rpm range for the VE and Spark tables... Do I really need to go in and manually change some part of the code in the text file? Additionally, I think I am understanding I can wire the 0-5V output from my AEM WB O2 sensor to the ECM so I can datalog it with everything else, but I need to do some more reading to understand that... I did weld in the bung for the WB sensor. In retrospect maybe it seems like a weird place, but hopefully it will work. Seemed like there was more room angling it that way than to the inside... Plus now I'll have an O2 sensor of some type in both banks.

 

Looking good.
Regarding the alternator, seems odd that there'd be interference. But then again, we're well past the OEM scheme of things. Just guessing here (and it reads like you've found a solution) but is not possible to disassemble the alternator and "clock" it orient the stud away from the valve cover? (And the OEM have a little boot that fits over that stud if you haven't already found something.)

Waiting now to hear that thing bark off for the first time!

 

First start is so close! I can't wait! Fluids are in, just about everything is connected and installed!



But, I've got two (hopefully) last issues to deal with...

First, the front fuel rail crossover fittings are leaking when the pump primes. I'll have to take that off tomorrow and hope the tube was just not aligned quite right. I tried tightening the fittings and it only seemed helped on one side... otherwise I may have to replace the fittings.

Second, the exhaust crossover on the y pipe interferes with my oil pan and new tubular k member...I guess when the oil fill spec of 6 qts instead of 5 should have qued me into the fact that it may have been larger... My plan is to just weld in a short maybe 1/2 to 1 inch length of additional pipe between the connection to the driver's side header and the first bend. Hopefully that allows it to clear...

 

Keep up the Good work.

Fred

 

Like my hot rodding friend is fond of saying, "It's ALWAYS something!"
Good luck.

 

Two steps forward one step back I guess...

I took off, cleaned, lubed, and reinstalled the fuel rail cross over and THANKFULLY it holds pressure now with no problems.

I took the y pipe back out and added a 1-3/8" extension which should give me about 3/8 inch clearance with my oil pan and k member. Paint will be dry tomorrow.



I wanted to try to set my initial timing though, so i pulled the fuel injector fuses, and hooked up a timing light, with only the #1 plug and wire (plus the coil wire), but when I crank it, I get no flashes... and my Fireball hi 6 ignition is throwing an error. 4 flashes says coil primary short during operation. Now I need to figure out if something is really going on, or it's a result of the method I'm trying to use for seting initial timing. Which admittedly is most lickely intended for simpler carburated cars...

 

She started, first turn of the key and she sounds aggressive!!!

I got the modified exhaust all put back in place, fits nicely now, and installed plugs and wires last night. And I was ready to give it a shot. I cranked the engine with the fuel injector fuses out for about 10 seconds to get oil circulating again, I primed the engine about a week ago.

Turns out my ignition box just wasn't able to operate without all olugs beeing hooked up... It seems all fine now, whoch i expected it to be.

The cam or compression or everything gives it a pretty raunchy idle, same exhaust as before, bit it is definitly louder than before... may not be able to work on it while having to start it late into the night anymore... though it was still at 1000rpm high idle... I only let it idle for about 1 minute.

One question: with the brown wire for computer controlled ignition timing hooked up, it was able to stay idling, and was starting to calm down. But when I disconnected it to set my 6 deg of base timing, I couldn't get it to idle long enough to get from the key to the distributor to start playing with it. Is there a trick I'm missing, or is it really just a 2 person job?

 

It sounds glorious!!!

 

That does sound nice!
What cam again?

 

Thanks! It's one smeding offers in their crate engines, not sure if they make it or have it made for them, I suspect the latter. They call it their 450hp Extreme cam, but in their dyno test sheets they use a carburetor and 1.5 ratio rockers. With my 1.6 ratio rockers and fuel injection it may make a bit more...

.544"/555" Lift W/1.6 rockers, 231°/236° Duration @ .050”, 111 LSA

 

I recall this from earlier in the thread and IIRC I asked about seat timing and none was forthcoming.
I like the exhaust "cadence" . One that has that big cam sound although, looking at those specs, and working through what the seat timing might be and considering the LSA, I wouldn't think there's a lot of overlap to contribute to that. Overall though, it plays a very nice tune combined with your exhaust.
When's the first rip?

 

You actually reached out to smeding on my other thread, isnt that what you're talking about?

Your post:
FTR:I reached out to Smeding for further cam specs.Their 450 HP version is 281°/286° @ .006.

 

It definitely has that lope everyone likes.
With 281/281 on a 111, that 61.5° of overlap.
More the the 276/282/110 (COMP's XR276HR) which had 59°. Barely any lope really although you could tell it wasn't a stocker.
The current cam has 66° (280/284/108) and it definitely sounds like it.
That's said,I've found that with tuning, and in particular ignition timing, that idle roughness can be smoothed over somewhat. You may find as you progress through dialing it in, that some of that aggressive sound may be subdued somewhat. But it'll still be obvious.
I find too that 2 into 1 exhaust systems (mine), and those that X pipes or H pipes, tend to be mellower.
Personally I like the "bark" that my exhaust note has. Same as yours.

 

I got the base timing set to 6 deg ( ended up locking down to maybe 6.25, hopefully that's alright) and o let it idle for about 10 min. Had some issues with air in the cooling system and it was heating up, but I get the pump to prime and got coolant circulating, I think that is good now. Fuel pressure is currently 41-42 psi, I'm thinking about going up to 45 psi per my AFPR instructions for my level of engine. My smeding instructions say to hold 2k rpm for 10 min then fully cool, and check bolt torques and fluids before starting with a first street drive. I still need to get power wired to my wideband sensor before I want to do that...

Anything else I need to keep in mind?

What else do I need to do before first drive, and how hard can i or should i push it. I know I need to seat the rings, but the current tune has most ignition, fueling, and ve data either from my original bin, or a 250 horse vette... so I'm sure significant changes will be needed. Do I watch my WB and just make sure I don't go too lean or rich? What is "too lean or rich"? When should I lift?

I also found my steering shaft that didn't contact my ds header now does, so I need to figure how to move that over slightly...

Lastly there is some sort of almost metallic giggling noise coming from somewhere my thermostat, I'd like to understand that before driving too much.

 

Best I can do is give you a rundown on how I was instructed to break-in this latest engine. I was scared to death of washing the cylinders down with fuel and ruining my new block. But that's a carburetor thing that can happen if you have a crank and no start condition because of some spark issue or similar. Interestingly, I've started fresh engines on many occasions and never really gave it much thought. I guess I was lucky.
In your case, based on what you've posted, yours barked off right away and your EFI did its thing.

Idling doesn't help anything really. As a matter of fact, it was pointed out to me that a low idle doesn't do much for oil splash on the cylinder walls and it was recommended to get it up 1500-1800 RPM on those cold starts. Cold being relative by the way. I'm talking 40-50° F.
You know the first test drive break-in to seat the rings. Even though it's been said modern engines need little in that regard as the rings seat quickly, it's still something I paid attention too as my engine wasn't run on a dyno first as many are. That said, up into rev range (I like 2nd gear) to 3000 or so and let engine braking bring it down. Repeat with varying RPMs. I didn't to get too aggressive in the revs as the valvetrain would probably need a reset and if there's any crap in the oil, I didn't want to make a bad situation worse.
As for AFRs, if 14.7:1 is the stoichiometric of your fuel (it varies with the amount of ethanol in today's pump gas) I like to be within a point or so of that. If I'm seeing 16:1, I'm out of it and will figure out why. Rich, IMO, isn't quite as detrimental as lean although excessively rich and your looking at that cylinder wash down again when lubricated bores are essential.
That's how I approached my latest break-in. And most if not all of that came from different engine builders and what they do.

I used Lucas SAE 30 (there are many similar and I think Smedding's choice is on that list) for the 1st and 2nd oil change. The first being about 50 miles. The 2nd closer to 500. Both with new filters. Excessive? Maybe. But erring on the side of caution is better than the other way around. I was advised not to leave break-in oil in for prolonged periods (as in weeks or months) as the components in that kind of oil will damage the various engine surfaces. By design they're supposed to penetrate those surfaces and lay a boundary layer down. If left on its own, it'll eat away at the softer materials.
After that 2nd change I went with Mobil 1 5W20. It was colder here last fall when I did this and the thinner viscosity combined with the Shark tooth oil pump still offered plenty of oil pressure. Even though I've a roller cam, it was also recommended that an oil with higher contents of ZDDP isn't a bad thing. There's a maximum threshold there and I found that Mobil's High Mileage or Extended Performance blends offered that.

FTR: All of the above from industry pros.
Hope there's some nugget in there that's helpful.

 

Here are the Smeding instructions that I'm following, since it's their engine and 3 year warranty!

Their initial ignition timing process didn't agree with my ignition system, but I've got that set now. I'll probubly go out and do the 10 min at 2000 rpm later on today, I'll make sure not to exceed 16:1. Thing is I'm leaving for India on a business trip tomorrow for a week, so this is going to have to be put in pause...

Break In Instructions: Fill the engine with 6qts Driven BR40 10w-40 break in oil and install a K&N HP-2002 oil filter. Before installing the distributor, prime the engine using a drill turning clockwise! Forgetting this step may lead to severe engine wear.Install your distributor and set the initial timing. This can be done before starting the engine by turning on the ignition and removing all spark plugs except for cylinder 1. Then use a friend or starter bump button and spin the engine over while using a timing light until you have the distributor adjusted. It is not good to run the starter for more than 30 seconds at a time as it can overheat.Install the other spark plugs and start the engine. Once the engine is started, increase rpm to 2,000 rpm, for 10 minutes. Make sure your coolant system is properly burped, and that your engine does not overheat during this time!After allowing the engine to completely cool down, it is recommended to retorque the intake manifold bolts to 25#, valve cover bolts to 4-6# and header bolts to 25#.After the initial 10-minute heat cycle, drive the engine for 300 miles with the original break in oil still in the engine. During these 300 miles, it is recommended to accelerate the engine under moderate to heavy load, followed by unloading the engine at high rpm. Example, accelerate from 2,500rpm to 5,800rpm at 50-70% throttle, then lift off the throttle leaving the engine in gear, and let the engine “engine-brake” itself in a high rpm, high vacuum setting. Heavy engine loading and unloading is required to seat the piston rings!After 300 miles are completed, change the oil & filter and run Driven HR5 10w-40 oil at normal oil change intervals.

 

Their approach isn't entirely different that what was suggested to me.
Revs to 2000 at first (oil splash). The driving RPMs are little excessive IMO (5800!) considering all of the moving and still not re-adjusted parts (i.e. valvetrain) but the climb and decel are the same.
You'll find that the Driven break-in oil has a high level of ZDDP. This isn't just a flat tappet thing as is generally thought. There are many dissimilar metals rubbing and sliding together, think steel rings and a cast iron bore, aluminum pistons, bearings and crankshaft, etc. All of that stuff needs to bed in properly for long engine life. (as researched through the Speed-Talk link posted earlier).
It reads like you've got a handle on this.
Enjoy India (!) and post up when you're home and at it again.

 

I tried a quick attempt at the 10 min at 2k rpm before leaving...

Started good I think, settled in at about 2100, and the afr was 14-15. It would go up higher if I lifted, but that may be expected with the decel fuel cut or whatever its called, but then at around 3 min, the afr pretty suddenly went up to 16-18 and I couldn't figure out how to pedal it to bring it down, so I shut it down.

I started getting a lot of smoke from the back side of the engine, but I know I spilled some oil back there when I was filling, and also I know my freshly painted y pipe, has to go through its curing cycle, that if I remember right did smoke some. Ground underneath is dry, so that's good at least.

Unless there is something obvious someone can share, time to start investigating... the temp was starting to come up so maybe it was the difference between open loop and closed loop? I'm also wondering if my idea of upping my fuel pressure from 42 to 45 psi could be of benefit...

 

I went through this and drove myself crazy trying to find a good oil. I found heavy oil for breakin is bad, we did 20w50 and that is apparently very not good. I got Lucas straight 30 this time. Also for regular oil Mobil One 0w40 has plenty of ZDDP plus phosphorus which is needed for roller tip rockers. 40 weight oil isn't regulated so it can have all the delicious additives performance motors crave.

 

You may find this informative.
And two thumbs up for Lucas SAE 30. Brad Penn is also good as are many others.
I too went down that rabbit hole a learned a great deal talking with experts. There are links posted above to Speed-Talk where those conversations occurred.
Same with oil filters. Not all are created equally as we know. Most don't offer the details of their construction. Baldwin was an exception to that and came highly recommended. Their B279 is now my forever go to. I've three on order for this coming season.

 

Being fuel injected, there must be a tuning table that you can access? The things you're seeing might be revealed there.

 

So, this engine build and swap is basically done! Engine runs, all parts installed, except for the new high flow fuel pump which I'll do soon, but I wanted to get the car driving first, It has been up on jack stands so long, I just wanted to be able to drive it a bit, in case the fuel pump part of the project requires the car to be back up on stands for another week or two...

One hopefully last issue came up though. I only noticed once the engine was running, but as I turn the wheel at one point the steering shaft now contacts the header... I guess there were enough tolerances in the engine mounts, and other components that the engine ended up slightly further to the drivers side. Or I somehow bent the shaft slightly during the removal or install of the engine. It only touches one every revolution, so the shaft is clearly not perfectly straight.

I'll have to try the following to see if any one or a combination of them will give me the clearance I need... The Exhaust ports on these heads are raised by 0.100" so given the angle of the exhaust surface that will move them slightly out as well...
- Loosen engine and transmission mounts and pry the motor as far to the passenger side as it will go in the mounting holes then re-torque.
- Loosen the new tubular K member and pry it as far as it will go to the passenger side and re-torque.
- Use the trick where you slide the upper steering column mounting bolts all the way towards the drivers side of the car, ovalizing the holes in the firewall a bit if necessary.

Any other Ideas???

Time to start tuning, which will certainly take some time...
I started a new thread to focus on the tuning portion of this project you can fine here:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...ml#post6556755

 

As much as it pains me to do it myself, perhaps just a well placed smack with a hammer would give the clearance needed?
Or maybe the "Astro van steering shaft" upgrade would take up less real estate. (Not sure on that one as I've never bothered to pursue it.)

 

This should be a sticky. Great information for anyone doing a 383 swap.

Fred

 

I'd be honored, not sure how that works though...

 

So I did my final retorques and went for my first drive today! (only around the block, still a lot of tuning to do...)

During my final check, I found this connector I couldn't remember what it went to. anyone recognize it? Comes out of the thick wire bundle just on the passenger side behind the engine by the firewall. Im suspecting it had something to do with the EGR or AIR systems, both of which have been removed. I just don't recall ever noticing this connector hanging out here over all these years.



Also I've been trying to put all the support brackets back on that I for some reason removed years ago, can't figure out where this one goes though. Anyone recognize it? Seems beefy.

 

Looks like the brace on tpi that goes from compressor to front of the intake


https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...et-needed.html

cant tell the wiring colors could be egr solenoid or there is a unused connector like that towards drivers side.

 

Ah, looks right. Don't think there is a way to use that with my stealth ram base, but I'll have to take a look...

 

I think that’s why you left it off