now what idiot designed the upper strut bolt, which is torqued to like 100 ft lbs or something, and requires like 200 ft lbs to get it off, to be a 10MM nut.. HOW STUPID can u get.... there is NO way that such a small bolt can handle so much torque.. especialy when taking it off. which is why my is stripped to pieces. nothing left to it, i have tried everything you an possibly think of to just get a grip on the bolt, 3 different pairs of vice grips, grinding down the bolt head to be square shaped, and it still stripped like it was made of lead!!.. well, the only other option i have now. is to drill out the freaking thing and get a new strut. but not untill i can drill out the stupid thing..

well at least i get new high performance struts.. gotta love it when things break and can be upgraded..

 

Try using a box end wrench and get a magnet and clean that crap up.

 

well, its not the OUTER nut that im having problems with, its the inner nut.. the one with the hole in it and all the shavings are cleaned now.. should have it all fixed tomorrow afternoon, just have to buy a 5/8" drill bit that won't poop out on me.

 

Hey, Breath - I resemble that remark...

You have to understand what the engineer was trying to do. He (or more correctly, his department) was assigned the task of making the design easy and inexpensive to assemble, and still strong enough to serve it's purpose. I doubt seriously that the accountant who told them to make it easy to assemble ever mentioned that it would be nice to make it serviceable. That's why there are so many specialty service tools at GM dealer service centers. The person on the assembly line had a brand new, clean, and lightly lubricated thread and a counterbalanced torque gun to install the nut, they didn't care about the person who might have to disassemble it later, and neither did the accountants. I'll bet the engineeers knew all along that it was going to be a be-otch to service, but did it the easiest and cheapest way for assembly.

As for your disassembly, you really should have used penetrating oil, a 10 mil box wrench on the stud, and an 18 mil offset box on the nut. a high-offset box wrench suitable for the task is standard fare from Mac, Armstrong, Wright, Proto, and even Snap-On (they mnust be buying it from Wright again). Go to a decent quality supplier and you should be able to find exactly what you need. While you're there, get a small can of Never-Seez so that it doesn't happen to you again.

 

well, i tried penetrating oil, and later a butane toarch, no luck.

im sorry if i affended anyone, i was just angry last night...

 

Breathe,

No offense taken. You should see me bitch myself out sometimes for some of the "creative" things I've done. I was just jerking your chain a little. I probably would have been a little peeved, too.

I had a similar fight with struts, like many of us probably have. It helps to have a lot of penetrating oil, some time for it to work into the joint, and the correct tools. Sometimes, the correct tool can be an accetylene torch set, especially when you get one of those really nasty ohnes like you appear to have.

If you ever have to do the other side, let it soak in penetrating oil for a week or so before tackling it, and wet it down every day or so. A lot of really stubborn fasteners can be coaxed in that way, even the really ugly exhaust parts. But keep that cutting torch handy just in case. Sometimes you can't beat the old "gas axe".

 

Just a words of advicxe,have you ever tried the craftsman robogrips?there awesome..best tool i have ever used/seen...
email me and i can hook you up with a set for free

 

If you're going to replace the srtuts anyway, you could try clamping some vice grips on the strut rod underneath in the wheel well. Worked great for me!

 

Does anyone know what the torque rating on that nut for a 91' Camaro should be. I think I have around 30-50 ft. lbs. on mine, just want to make sure mine is tight enough.

 

I have always subscribed to the theory that the assorted engineering departments at GM all HATE each other. So, as the design makes it's way down the line, one department looks at what the previous ones have done, and thinks of ways to make it impossible to work on that stuff.......

So far, they are doing an excellent job.........

(Sorry can't be more help.....)

 

I think you all missed one big part of the GM strategy.

Why make the car easier to work on???

Most things don't break until after the warranty period... at that point we will have to pay them more money to fix it. The longer it takes the mechanic to fix it... the more you pay... and the more money they get... Don't forget that all GM dealers pay royalties to GM every month.

and here's us... Joe Consumer :lala:

 

I just wanted to say that GM sets the prices that they will pay the dealer for warranty or any other work. It is already predetermined how many hours the mechanic is going to get paid for the job, no matter how long it actually takes him to do the repair. So it is in the mechanics best interest to get it done quickly. Or to add on more work to make up for the difference whatever they feel like. Hope this helps.

nick

 

I think I permanently damaged my elbow ligaments trying to take my struts off. The two bolts that hold them to the front caliper assembly. I definately felt something "pop" trying to get those loose.

 

You need two things. Actually one of three things.

A Dremel and a cutting disc made for metal, a nut splitter, or an angle grinder.

I've had the same problem as breathment, and the worst part was that it was a new one that went bad and I had to take it back to AutoZone for warranty.

If you use a Dremel and a cutting wheel, just make two cuts on either side or the nut and whalla, it's off. Or use a nut splitter. But the Dremel is much more fun. Just make sure you don't cut into the bearing unless you plan on changing that also.

If you use an angle grinder, just cut the shaft in the wheel well. Again you will need a cutting wheel, but it's probably just as much fun as the Dremel, and louder to!!!

AJ